gravelld

I only had to cut three so I just got a cheap 127mm hole saw from China. I used a rasp to make the hole slightly bigger where required, and where wiring needed to go.

Pretty sure a non trivial chunk of this is the Aga. I used to turn ours right down overnight and back up in the morning. It meant you couldn't have the apparently-legendary Aga breakfasts and Aga porridge. I think it saved a bit (please ignore the "more efficient to keep it running" argument - it's the oldest myth in the energy efficiency book). My conclusion was it was either the Aga or treading lightly on the world. So now I have the world's most expensive cupboard housing our roasting tins.

Just tried with some 1.5mm solid core and it fitted very nicely. And yes, the slot is to release.

https://www.aereco.co.uk/products/exhaust-fans-uk/v4a-premium/

Well I'm not sure if this is any guide but this page uses the same notation and it suggests the number is the maximum gauge: https://www.phoenixcontact.com/online/portal/gb?uri=pxc-oc-itemdetail:pid=3208100&library=gben&tab=1

Nothing obvious in the instructions. On the top of the block: It says "1,5° S" at the bottom left terminal, and "2,5° 450V" on the top-right one. The other terminals appear to have some sort of symbols.

Does the gauge of the wire not matter to get the push fit to work? If I use twin and earth I assume I can just ignore the earth as it won't be connected at the other end either...

Thanks both.

I need to cable to this terminal block, but I'm not sure how cables are secured: Can anyone identify that type of connector and what I need to connect to it? The manual states "Use rigid wire or galvanized multi wire".

Thanks, I had in my mind lots of right angles but it sounds like that's not the best way!

I'm going to be installing ducting from three wet rooms (1 x kitchen, 2 x bathroom) and I wondered if there were any decent guides with best practice? It's just the ducting I'm interested in. This is a retrofit in an occupied house. The unit I'm fitting the ducting into is https://www.aereco.co.uk/products/exhaust-fans-uk/v4a-premium/ The unit will be in the cold loft. The kitchen is downstairs and the ducting will run through an airing cupboard. The bathrooms are both upstairs and the ducting will run directly from the outlets in the ceiling into the unit. The outlet from the unit will be into a roof vent. Here's what I've found so far (some of this, e.g. the 125mm suggestion is from the manufacturer, Aereco): - Insulate all ducts in cold space - Try to have the same lengths of duct between rooms, but err on side of being closest to the kitchen duct - Use 125mm duct - If using flexible ducts, should be neither too loose or too taught, should just "hang natural" - Condensation trap required on vertical discharges over 1m inside unheated space. - Spend good money on proper tape (suggestions?) and also apply a mastic seal Some things I'm not sure on: - Flexible or rigid? - Rectangular or circular? - Should all runs be at right angles? (Up to the unit I guess, there's probably always a need for an angle there) Any more? Any other pointers?

Are you sure the wall is filled at that point?

You only want to do this once. It will have to be done to the property eventually anyway to a decent standard. So either you do it, once, or someone else has to do it again. Good news for the installation companies I suppose. IMO by far the biggest decisions revolve around enabling works. Foundations? Eaves and verges? Meter boxes? Consider if this is an opportunity to establish an AT layer. I heard of some people painting the entire outside wall in blowerproof. Two coats (ideally three). Having deeper reveals might be a good thing - will help with overheating.

It's below that - the track and threshold sit on a timber member with the DPM underneath that. It's in-between the water is getting in. Outside there's a Siga weather proofing tape but this is currently just flapping about and needs to be lapped down into the trench and sealed above between the tape and the cill.

Thanks for these ideas/thoughts.

We have just installed a 4.5m slider into the ground floor of a gable. One floor above, with the gabled roof above that. With bad rain and wind we're getting some water ingress underneath the door. We need to seal this, but it looks like part of the problem is when a quantity of water sits at the bottom of the door and gets blown in. So I think as well as sealing the hole, we should allow for water to drain away more quickly. Is this right? Two obvious solutions are suggested: - A French drain with a pipe at the bottom attached to downpipe - A French drain which is just a ditch with no connection to a downpipe The former is obviously better drainage wise, but it's double the cost. Also, I intend on externally insulating the house (including the founds), which means such a solution would be wasted; we'll have to move the drain away from the wall later. So, is there a way of calculating how much of a ditch volume would be required? There's no run off from the roof, it's just a gable wall (often facing prevailing wind).

I only have experience of Iso Chemie Bloco One which is a similar product. I've never submerged it, but when installed and in the rain try touching it - it feels tacky and seems to repel water. It does not set hard, that's part of the point - it moulds to the gap over time.

Chicken wire?

I think this is turning out more complicated than I thought (after discussing with another builder) and so I'm getting someone with some wet trade experience to do this! Thanks for your ideas.

We replaced our windows and had a Compriband style product applied around them. Unfortunately the windows were very tight, and some block work fell out as the old apertures were prepared. The result is a couple of these: And a few smaller ones too: So the problems are that: - The expanding foam tape isn't covering the gap - There's not a solid base for re-rendering to occur I have some aircrete (Toplite) and some dense concrete block and also plenty of mortar. Shall I try cutting the aircrete to size and wedging it in?

Personally never had a problem with scratches in Corian. IIRC we were advised it depends to an extent on colour - we had a concretey grey kind of colour with very subtle "flecking". Any scratch just came out over a few days and a rub with olive oil. Would definitely buy again, far better than any other surface I have used.

As I replied in a PM to @Grendel I crossed my fingers and paid up... so far so good.

Not sure if it helps but Bond-It sent a series of pictures of how to disassemble their guns (they're pasted below in reverse order).

What exactly do you want - what is it about Sonos that made you consider that in the first place? A more "audiophile" brand would be something like Bluesound. You can get a long way just using something like Kef speakers which can stream and have multiple built in inputs like Bluetooth etc

Heh, ok, thought it would be something exotic!