gravelld

I find the best products are the ones that allow compression once cured, e.g. Soudal Flexifoam or Everbuild Thermofoam. Both more expensive than others though. Has to be low expansion, and has to be applied with a gun.

I think a lot depends on perception doesn't it? I don't think there are many electric showers around that will do 12 l/min are there. Depends what people are used to in a lot of cases I think.

Thanks. I went back to the original shop and asked. They said they mix their own pigment into the paint and be wary of buying elsewhere (of course ;-) ) because the shade can deviate by about 4% (I think he said) from RAL colour. It's a modern microporous paint.

Filco keyboard.

Got a kiln? ;-)

What about thermowood?

I'd genuinely like to know why this is even a question. Don't we all agree we should be reducing heat loss to the point that a FF based boiler is way overkill? You still have DHW to consider but we all know there are ways around that (pre heat heat pump, or just E7, plus solar etc, also consider inline instantaneous).

Do Osmo have a competitive product to Sioo? The latter claim 15 years service, the former 4... Maybe I'm looking at the wrong product.

Thanks everyone.

Ok, thanks. It can't be pre-1995, the windows were only painted three or four years ago. The windows would be in even worse condition if it was pre 1995 ;-) This is the paint: http://www.sadolin.co.uk/products/sadolin-superdec-satin-opaque-wood-protection/ What surprises me is that "French Grey" isn't listed under colours. However it is here: https://www.brewers.co.uk/product/HA572610F/French Grey So I was interested: is the paint formulation some proprietary blend of chemicals, and any pigment can be added over the top - is that why retailers are selling it in different shades to that which the manufacturer lists? Truth be told I wondered if I could order online for convenience and possible savings, which is why I was wondering if those numbers were a colour code. But I was also worried about what "French Grey" might mean to different retailers. I guess I'll just go local.

I have some old windows that need a new coat of paint. I found an old tin of paint from the former owners of the house in the garage - I applied this and it's the right colour. But I need more. The sticker on the tin says: French Grey 2906-G56Y NTB18 PPG NTB It's on a Sadolin tin. So should I just find Sadolin "French Grey" or do those code numbers give away the colour code, or something? I googled the codes but nothing came up.

I would find the QS yourself and pay for them yourself. Recent podcast on this: http://www.houseplanninghelp.com/hph140-what-is-a-quantity-surveyor-with-jerry-thomas-of-smith-thomas-consult/

Sounds like you've got some nice free expertise in the family! I thought a general guideline for BC was that if over half a wall is being recovered it has to be upgraded to current building performance standards, e.g. U=0.3. How much insulation does the wall currently have? I am also looking at renovating a house with render work in bad condition. I intend to live in it for 20+ years, so this might be different for you. But for me it seems an ideal time to upgrade the fabric to a higher standard. In your case, might you be able to avoid removing the render depending on an external insulation system? E.g. Larssen truss + blown insulation? I suppose not much space down that alley way...

I kind of want to keep discussion about insulation systems separate, unless you think there's a good reason. I have separate opinions about those! Isn't lime megabucks?

Well the popped sections haven't actually fallen off yet, in the main. Just hollow behind and bowing a bit. Where paint has come off, either some old patching up is revealed or in some cases some cement with cracks in it. There's no brick or block revealed.

I looked into acrylic render but what I read suggested it wasn't great in more exposed locations. Silicone was better for that? I'm prepared to listen to suggestions for render, but given experiences here I am a bit sceptical. That's also why having it on the GF is ok (easier to patch, or replace with less scaffolding required). Maybe this house is just rendered badly...

Wow some different ideas there David, thanks! Some stuff to look into. Glass would probably show staining as rain dries, right? Just get the window cleaner to clean that too! About feather edge - I was thinking more contemporary look. Just clarified about budget.

I'd like to know an appropriate wall cladding for a semi-exposed wall. I realise "semi exposed" is a bit vague, so suggestions for any way to quantify this would be gratefully received! I'll update this OP if I can derive something more measurable. The wall is currently cement rendered on masonry cavity. The exposed walls are in a poor condition with plenty of "popped" render, paint flaking off, and hairline cracks in newer sections of render on the same wall (where an extension has been built). The joinery is softwood and in poor condition, having undergone plenty of repair in the years prior. Sections of the render are above a GF extension, so access is tricky for maintenance. The wall is SW facing (so plenty of sun) down a fairly shallow valley. Plenty of wind, but we're not talking W-coast of Scotland. What are the options? I want to optimise these things (and in this order): - Maintainability (I'd like largely maintenence free 20+ years lifespan) - Aesthetics (a fairly contemporary look) Budget is not mega millions but I'm willing to pay for quality, especially for maintainability and performance. So I'm looking for value, but not bling. Ideas - Untreated cladding on 1st floor, render below? - What do the cement boards look like, really? - I want to combine this with a thermal upgrade, putting the new covering on external insulation

This might sound dumb but what if you have absolutely no idea about costs? Can you approach an architect with the possibility of nothing happening?

Yeah, I think "shall" is normally stronger in specification documents. Another example of where regs are behind the times.

Anyone used a robot lawnmower? I'm tempted.