Marvin

Its also pretty inconvenient if some one climbs in through an open window and robs you when arguing with your insurance company.😂

In construction, a site agent will normally be responsible for inspecting construction works as they proceed on behalf of a client, identifying problems with and providing solutions for to ensure project costs are controlled.

Oh and the plan: Start out with the end in mind. Good luck M

My three are Demolition Alteration Installation.

I don't think I want windows to open, when no one is at home, to ventilate the building so the building would need Air to Air systems.(As I understand it). Holding the heat in causes all the building contents to absorb the heat and because of the thermal resistance of the building once in it will take as long to cool as to heat (without intervention). Looking forward to our changing environment, with what appears to be more extreme events, I think that buildings for the soon to be environment need to be built tougher and more resistant to changes than covered in the building regulations.. Building design improvements take years to develop into regulations so they are always behind the buildings life time requirements. Calculating our building heating requirement I assumed a low point of -8 Celsius. Not enough attention was paid to overheating which I'm trying to deal with. A forever home need to cope with the future demands.... assuming we're still here. Good luck M

So no chance of any problems there then....

Nothing controversial with that! We work around the problem of being cold when we first arrive by putting an electric heater on for a while. Also with home automation systems I think you could probably heat the home up using your phone to control it. If your home is going to use very little energy to heat up in the winter then it might become quite hot in the summer. Best to start with the SAP calculations in my opinion. As @Benpointer comments, its probably best to build as if you are going to live full time in it because then in the future you could, or in the future some other people could.

Building your own home, or renovating, where profit is not the motive, is a different game, assuming you don't have ideas above your finances..

Hi @seanblee I have not read all the thread but I would like to add that one of the things I did was to turn down the flow rate of the pump and balance the radiators to avoid cycling problems. If you have microbore you definitely need something like a Magna clean. After any plumbing pipe work it is good to flush the entire system out during summer.

Hi @don atkinson In my humble opinion, towards retirement age, I would reduce my risk by selling it as it is. Health, stress, financing the work and uncertainty would all factor for me . Adding the price you could sell it at, along with the cost of conversion, may not give you as much money after costs as just selling it. It's all a risk... I will not list all the costs or risks but there are loads of items involved. Good advice above from @ProDave. The costs to you from selling at auction can be added to the buyers fees by contract these days.... For further thoughts here, more info is required. Good luck Don. M

We have a buffer with our TRV (Thermostatic Radiator Valve) regulated radiators. It seems to help to avoid the ASHP 'cycling' (going on and off in short bursts because, for example, only one radiator demanding hot water so little to do). As I understand that the ASHP takes about 10mins to reach optimum efficiency.?

Stop taking the pyss. He's too young for that yet.... 😂

NEVER a silly question, unless you don't ask it... Yes and no. Above external DPC or below. Never through DPC (assuming masonry external wall) As long as there is a fall of at least 1 in 40 on any horizontal pipework inside and outside towards what it drains into. My recommendations: Make all bends after first one from sink swept bends (first one swept or elbow) and where the pipe comes out of the wall the first swept bend silicone on so it can be removed if required in the future. Good luck. M

Its difficult to tell the fall on the horizontal pipes form the picture. Horizontal pipes should fall 1cm down in 40cm along. I add additional fall for each 90 degrees of horizontal bend to overcome the redirection resistance. The short stack on the right has a air admittance valve on it so it lets air in and not smells out. Does the stack on the left service another loo?

Yes. Its hinged on the wall edge. Big screwdriver and lever it up. Bit like this one?? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255524120508?_ul=GB&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5339019733&toolid=10001&customid=eb%3Ag%3Avms%3Aeb%3Ap%3A255524120508%3BCjwKCAiA-ty8BhA_EiwAkyoa31hSpmtJ-06n81XFdKNi34HeDPH1_uq_LIPxXjFQgf8kl1g8ULfy0hoCgZUQAvD_BwE&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1B2RxDHdNRE-rKvLM5Z3asA36&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA-ty8BhA_EiwAkyoa31hSpmtJ-06n81XFdKNi34HeDPH1_uq_LIPxXjFQgf8kl1g8ULfy0hoCgZUQAvD_BwE Not attached to pipe. hole probably full of soil... I use a BIG screwdriver on these.... not a problem if the whole thing comes out. You can use contact the waterboard and tell them that you can't turn it off and you have a leak. However they may want to install a water meter... Good luck M

Hi @Daniel H In my humble opinion... No point trying to convince the general public. 90% of their objections are not planning related. However to encourage planning check what they say they are wanting and identify how your plans support their planning strategy. You can still add documents to your application, however, the clock usually starts once the final revisions by yourself are submitted! Check the local council's planning strategy and find items that support your development. I have added when the neighbours (only the ones whose land is bordered by your plot or access way...),have been involved in discussion, and if they raised no objections. I have included when the property aims to achieve a high level of insulation, any designs included to avoid irritating neighbours, keeping of any existing features, is in-keeping with the local area, and so on. Good luck M Obviously if your in the peak district National park, things might be tricky.... This may help. https://www.highpeak.gov.uk/media/160/The-High-Peak-Local-Plan-Adopted-April-2016/pdf/The_High_Peak_Local_Plan_Adopted_April_2016.pdf

Well who would have known that their was a problem... https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2025/jan/23/almost-40-firms-banned-from-installing-uk-insulation-amid-botched-jobs-outcry

See part J of the building regulations for positioning....

Yes but even the mains connected ones don't last for ever. ours lasted about 5 years! Its the same with smoke detectors/heat sensors....

Hi @Barnboy I've had this problem with cheap water based mist coat. The paint came off with a damp cloth. Also had challenges before when I think the plaster had got dusty before being painted...

Depends of amount of pipe available. Not easy if pipes go into screed but often easy when timber joisted floor.

What causes the water to go through the Bypass radiator? temperature or pressure or ? Where is the bypass radiator? in the bathroom or ?

Where in the building is the buffer tank? In the loft?

Don't hang about. Carefully put suitable wooden chocks either end of the radiator between the bottom of the radiator and the floor. Don't force them in, just use enough thickness to be firm. If your really worried squeeze silicone in where the fittings are off the wall as a temporary measure as well this will help to stop it wobbling. M

The MVHR units can be quite big. Ours fits through the loft hatch. We rolled 400mm of loft insulation over it and around it.