Marvin

Good time to start diggin... in the middle of winter keep you warm. Sure SWMBO can find some buckets....

Damn proper job there @Onoff!

Nor do ours.

No problem here. Four years now and no marks. Is the insulation tight against the ceiling and pipe? What are the filters like? Where is the MVHR drawing fresh air from?

Notice in the diagram the Insulation is fixed up tight to the underside of the floor makeup

Yes heat travelling down through chipboard or up through chipboard, underlay and floor covering... If the thermal resistance of these layers is more that the insulation below, and the underside of the routered chipboard is not touching all over the insulation below, then I think lots of heat will go down. Yes Celotex or similar underneath (touching the routered chipboard) is best. Another thing that can cause problems is if the joist ends are not sealed into cavity walls properly and the insulation below has a gap between that and the routered chipboard allowing air to flow...

Good picture to see detail: https://www.first-traceheating.co.uk/blog/what-floor-type-is-best-for-underfloor-heating

Tricky. The minimum outside temperature we set ours at was -4 degrees centigrade (the coldest temp in the last few years where we are) and the heating water temperature 45 degrees centigrade The maximum outside temperature for our home is 10 degrees Centigrade and the heating water temperature 35 degrees Centigrade. These were based on estimates taken from our building thermal calculations spreadsheet.

+1. and we then use ours to review the results: Theory to actual.

This document https://mcscertified.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/MIS-3002_Solar-PV-Systems-V4.0.pdf This section. 5.5.2

Try here: https://mcscertified.com/standards-tools-library/

Isn't that a frosted cobweb?

Looking at the picture again you my wish to add a bit more cavity insulation first in any holes to stop the plaster bridging the cavity. If your really adept you could adjust the inside wall surface position of the opening to fit grill on to that wasn't lop sided...

HI @Paene Finitur Make shuttering that fits inside the the box sticking out as much as the wall. 4 pieces of OSB or ply or whatever. fill the inside with wate ever to hold it tight - bricks, bits of wood - then plaster around the outside of the shuttering. I coat my shuttering with bits of plastic so it comes out easily. Y0u could pop each piece of wood in a plastic bag. Don't leave to long before removing the shuttering in case you have to do a bit of adjustment..

Yup, so when the DNO digs the road up (even costlier than a survey) Who's paying now? What people haven't been looking at is the detail of an application. In ours it said that, if any of the existing structure was not capable of supporting the load applied for, further upgrading work would have to be paid for in order for the installation to be approved. Some people on @BuildHub have faced quotes for thousands of pound for this reinforcement work. So who is going to pay the difference and how? You and me when paying for the cost of our energy. Given back money to the people referred to by @Nick Thomas as Rich and presumably taking from the poor. Lovely.

Hi @PhilT To clarify we have a coolenergy ASHP, and we set our own weather compensation curve to suit our own heat loss results.

Hope you find this reassuring @Nick Thomas. So now instead of the individuals who want to apply paying for the service, we will all have to pay more if we want to apply or not....... unless of course you think the DNO's will do the work for free..... so now making the poorer poorer. 🙄

That's what we see, both less busy but more expensive.

Hopefully @Rohan will be able to help. Assuming this was not updated information. I would check with the manufacturer for the latest.

-7°C this morning first thing and heating setpoint 43°C and inside 21-22°C. Yes it's taken us a while to think about the room temperature rather than how hot the radiator is... Also we would not have been able to adjust ours ourselves without understanding how it all works - and that's due to help from people @BuildHub

As I understand it, the weather compensation setting has to be individually set to each property to work properly.

Hi @daunker As I understand it, a high SCOP is derived from keeping the water temperature coming out of the ASHP as close to the temperature of the outside air temperature as possible whilst still keeping the building at a suitable temperature. A bit of a balancing act. We use the weather compensation option to do this.

Hi @Nick Thomas We're in the 51% band. Not rich at all. Spending life savings. Not that it's any of your business. Oh and we have 2 cars and mine is a 16 year old Citroën C2 bought from new. What's your vehicle Nick? I am not blind by the way. This comment particulary angers me as we have spent our whole lives scrimping and saving to get where we are now. And yes, when you can save loads using PV to help with the ASHP running costs (NO MAINS GAS HERE BY THE WAY) and the EV (EX DEMOSTATION BY THE WAY) with all systems installed by us, (inspected and passed by others BY THE WAY) the £300 is a small consideration, but not because we are RICH! Back to the surveying costs. If you would like to understand why a survey has to be completed I suggest you contact your DNO, and if you manage to stay polite with them, you may be able to LEARN what it's all about. Marvin.

Hi @HughF I think that all technical adjustments require trial and error and will be specifically related to the properties individual installation and location. That said, we are running like this: 5. Differential Temperature settings: Hotwater set up: Temp diff. set at 4° Stop temp diff. set at 3° Also the Weather Compensation has been bespoked. However, our set up is: Bungalow with 104m2 floor with AIM and APE(search on buildhub the word APE if your not familar) ASHP: Coolenergy CE-iVT9r. 60 litre buffer tank. 15 litres used as expansion vessel. Total system liquid volume 132 litres. 27% antifreeze. All pipes, ASHP, buffer and radiators volume. 205 litre hot water tank. Radiators. No UFH All external pipes (28mm) super insulated. (Total length less than 2 meters) All primary pipework (28mm) highly insulated. (Total length less than 10 meters) Buffer tank additionally insulated. Hot water tank additionally insulated. All the above means we are running like this: Inside temp 22°C Heating temp set at 40.5°C by weather compensation. Outside temp now 3.4°C was down to -1°C. Last 24hrs 14.03kWh used for heating and hot water. Reasonable is possible. Good luck M

Hi @Nick Thomas