Marvin

Tricky. The minimum outside temperature we set ours at was -4 degrees centigrade (the coldest temp in the last few years where we are) and the heating water temperature 45 degrees centigrade The maximum outside temperature for our home is 10 degrees Centigrade and the heating water temperature 35 degrees Centigrade. These were based on estimates taken from our building thermal calculations spreadsheet.

+1. and we then use ours to review the results: Theory to actual.

This document https://mcscertified.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/MIS-3002_Solar-PV-Systems-V4.0.pdf This section. 5.5.2

Try here: https://mcscertified.com/standards-tools-library/

Isn't that a frosted cobweb?

Looking at the picture again you my wish to add a bit more cavity insulation first in any holes to stop the plaster bridging the cavity. If your really adept you could adjust the inside wall surface position of the opening to fit grill on to that wasn't lop sided...

HI @Paene Finitur Make shuttering that fits inside the the box sticking out as much as the wall. 4 pieces of OSB or ply or whatever. fill the inside with wate ever to hold it tight - bricks, bits of wood - then plaster around the outside of the shuttering. I coat my shuttering with bits of plastic so it comes out easily. Y0u could pop each piece of wood in a plastic bag. Don't leave to long before removing the shuttering in case you have to do a bit of adjustment..

Yup, so when the DNO digs the road up (even costlier than a survey) Who's paying now? What people haven't been looking at is the detail of an application. In ours it said that, if any of the existing structure was not capable of supporting the load applied for, further upgrading work would have to be paid for in order for the installation to be approved. Some people on @BuildHub have faced quotes for thousands of pound for this reinforcement work. So who is going to pay the difference and how? You and me when paying for the cost of our energy. Given back money to the people referred to by @Nick Thomas as Rich and presumably taking from the poor. Lovely.

Hi @PhilT To clarify we have a coolenergy ASHP, and we set our own weather compensation curve to suit our own heat loss results.

Hope you find this reassuring @Nick Thomas. So now instead of the individuals who want to apply paying for the service, we will all have to pay more if we want to apply or not....... unless of course you think the DNO's will do the work for free..... so now making the poorer poorer. 🙄

That's what we see, both less busy but more expensive.

Hopefully @Rohan will be able to help. Assuming this was not updated information. I would check with the manufacturer for the latest.

-7°C this morning first thing and heating setpoint 43°C and inside 21-22°C. Yes it's taken us a while to think about the room temperature rather than how hot the radiator is... Also we would not have been able to adjust ours ourselves without understanding how it all works - and that's due to help from people @BuildHub

As I understand it, the weather compensation setting has to be individually set to each property to work properly.

Hi @daunker As I understand it, a high SCOP is derived from keeping the water temperature coming out of the ASHP as close to the temperature of the outside air temperature as possible whilst still keeping the building at a suitable temperature. A bit of a balancing act. We use the weather compensation option to do this.

Hi @Nick Thomas We're in the 51% band. Not rich at all. Spending life savings. Not that it's any of your business. Oh and we have 2 cars and mine is a 16 year old Citroën C2 bought from new. What's your vehicle Nick? I am not blind by the way. This comment particulary angers me as we have spent our whole lives scrimping and saving to get where we are now. And yes, when you can save loads using PV to help with the ASHP running costs (NO MAINS GAS HERE BY THE WAY) and the EV (EX DEMOSTATION BY THE WAY) with all systems installed by us, (inspected and passed by others BY THE WAY) the £300 is a small consideration, but not because we are RICH! Back to the surveying costs. If you would like to understand why a survey has to be completed I suggest you contact your DNO, and if you manage to stay polite with them, you may be able to LEARN what it's all about. Marvin.

Hi @HughF I think that all technical adjustments require trial and error and will be specifically related to the properties individual installation and location. That said, we are running like this: 5. Differential Temperature settings: Hotwater set up: Temp diff. set at 4° Stop temp diff. set at 3° Also the Weather Compensation has been bespoked. However, our set up is: Bungalow with 104m2 floor with AIM and APE(search on buildhub the word APE if your not familar) ASHP: Coolenergy CE-iVT9r. 60 litre buffer tank. 15 litres used as expansion vessel. Total system liquid volume 132 litres. 27% antifreeze. All pipes, ASHP, buffer and radiators volume. 205 litre hot water tank. Radiators. No UFH All external pipes (28mm) super insulated. (Total length less than 2 meters) All primary pipework (28mm) highly insulated. (Total length less than 10 meters) Buffer tank additionally insulated. Hot water tank additionally insulated. All the above means we are running like this: Inside temp 22°C Heating temp set at 40.5°C by weather compensation. Outside temp now 3.4°C was down to -1°C. Last 24hrs 14.03kWh used for heating and hot water. Reasonable is possible. Good luck M

Hi @Nick Thomas

Hi @Itrium Our ASHP external pipework is insulated within an inch of its life. Climaflex wrapped in Supasoft loft insulation, wrapped in EDPM. And taped up. Total about 200mm thick. Yes all our electric heaters disabled but available. Our 205ltr hot water tank registers about 20°C at the bottom, about 44°C ⅔ up and about 55°C near the top, all at the same time. Low and slow is the way to heat your home. We drop 2 degrees at night to sleep comfortably. With our Weather Compensation (WC), we adjusted at what points, what the set temperature, is. Having about 5kW PV we have lowered the maximum ASHP kW input demand by adjusting the compressor speed to take advantage of the PV, by trying to make our ASHP work lower for longer, also helping the cycling (starting heating length of time and turning off length of time) and also adjusted the ASHP stop differential temperature setting, which as @dpmiller says allows the inverter to wind down more progressively, lessening the chance of / ignoring an overshoot (lack of buffer capacity eg) and reduces short-cycling. Which is what is now happening. In the last 24 hours here we have had an average of about 3°C and my meter for the ASHP shows we have used 8.99kWh for 104m2 floor area. That's about 3.6 Watts an hour per m2. (Although we do have AIM and APE. That is Airtightness, Insulation, Mechanical Ventilation with Heat Recovery, and Air Source Heat Pump, Photovoltaics and Electric Vehicle. Good luck with improvements M

Hi @Conor The system may be trying to push water past trapped air down a pipe. Good thing to try with the pump off. Another one I've tried is to open only the one loop fully and run for a while and that forced the air along the pipe. Make a note of where all valve set points are before shutting them off and don't end up testing/setting everything for hours to get it to work properly Like I did.

I now know that the Temp. diff. is only the difference before restart So I assume that the Stop temp diff. is how much the Temperature differential before stop? Related to heating: Why not just set the temperature a little higher instead of extending the stop temp???

HI I noticed that our ASHP cycling is a bit too short on our Coolenergy inverTech Monoblock. To extend the cycling period I have been looking at the Differential Temperature Settings. Can anyone please explain what these two mean: Hotwater setpoint. Temp. diff. = (Default 5c) (Temperature differential before restart) Stop temp diff. = (Default 0c) (Buffer range to optimise compressor frequency) I guess that Temp diff means the distance between the set point and where the ASHP reacts: (Set at 5 degrees on heating means 5 degrees below turn on and 5 degrees above turn off?) But I'm not sure I understand this one at all: Stop temp diff. Thanks

Hi @JAG Also, roughly where in the county are you? IF, you have cavity insulation and driving rain this can cause this sort of problem. We have a 1970's timber framed bungalow but with no cavity insulation, however we decided to paint the outside becaue of the driving rain. My mum's bungalow with cavity wall (brick and block) has cavity wall insulation and had problems from driving rain.... Good luck M

My comment: May be an ASHP needs a bit more room than a room!

Yes it's not only bringing the air in but avoiding the mix of temperatures of before and after air.