saveasteading

Is that the refrigerant type? So applies to all makes that use it? I have the opportunity to optimise. I'm wondering if locating away from the building a bit, might improve the dispersal of the cooled exhaust, and thus bring in warmer air. Against that we must consider heat losses along the extended route. Perhaps on a plinth as a compromise?

That's a worry...not that minus 20 is common. But does it also struggle when approaching that temperature? Do the manufacturers quote their minimum working temperature? Another thought is that a poorly located fan might not be disposing of the cooled air properly, and so the surrounding area gets colder than the ambient? Much less efficient and eventually gives up? I've spoken to a few plumbers on this general subject and they didn't appear to understand. Also I've seen a fan unit tucked into a window recess 'for tidiness' and jammed with leaves behind, despite supposedly having been serviced.

You can get your LPA website to post new applications to you. The neighbouring areas too if similar circumstances. Learn from them free of charge. You may even end up being more expert than the experts, but will still need them for their credibility.

All concrete cracks, and we have to control it. Blocks shrink, so if you use mature, dry blocks, then some of it has been removed already. I would be looking at hollow blocks with bars linking them for the vertical strength controlling the pressure from both sides. But then the inner face is rough and will need coating before waterproofing by whatever means. Surprisingly, there is very little water loss through mosaic tiles in a pool. They are fixed to a concrete base and a wall of concrete or blocks. This assumes high quality construction of course.

As well as being rather too fast, I think this is a Greek???? accent plus Scottish touches.

Most things are possible, but the disruption and cost must be considered.

I look forward to learning how crack control will be handled. Although 'simple' lining doesn't mean cheap. It might be effectively a fibreglass bath built inside the concrere base and block walls.

Mice 3 days. Small rats 5 days. Longer but less awful in winter.

It is all that can be done. A future owner might know the ruling, but not care about killing moths or nature at all. But if it is sympathetic from the outset then it is a start. Most people don't change much.

Porcelain tiles should be laid on concrete, not rubble. Plus they get very slippy when wet. Agreed with the above...that you need 150mm for splashing OR a perimeter drain. But the drain can simply be gravel.

Thanks for the extensive research. You may stand down now,. I'd never heard of this but now see that there is lots of this stuff online. I've put a bit of plastic over the area in question, then an extra layer of fibreglass, but will bear this stuff in mind. In lockdown I had a mouse move into the car, in the channel below the windscreen. Anti-Marten spray* would be the business I hesitate to think what is in it that repels rodents.. Reminds me of trying to buy slug pellets in Spain. I asked for bolitas para corocoles. In UK think asking for pellets for snails would be understood. But the guy just stared. 'Contra corrocoles?' ahhhhh si. As I write I am told there is scrabbling in the flat roof area. I can't spray in there. Maybe it needs a third type of poison nearby. Otherwise it has to be traps with chocolate but yeugh, I'm squeamish with impaled mice.

Topps Tiles, backing board. There are others like this. Jackoboard. Wedi board. It is much denser, made for under tiles, and it has thermal qualities which the foil would not. And/ or mineral wool in the space below.

Ask your local builders' merchant for a non-woven geotextile membrane. If there is a choice of qualities then tell them the purpose, but it is going to need only middling quality unless you will be driving trucks or buses on it regularly. Terram is the best known name (like Hoover) but there are plenty of other suppliers. Do follow the instructions precisely. The materials should not be too cold, and it is clever, not magic. Whether you should remove the cover to let it breathe is doubtful. Mortar does not get its strength by drying out, but curing into a new material, and needs water for the chemistry. Cement normally takes 30 days to complete its chemical reaction and get the mortar to full strength, and it needs warmth and moisture for those. The additive speeds this all up, but I know no more. Perhaps the instructions say more.

3 degrees and rising is the guide for concrete. I've broken this guidance once and it became expensive hardcore....it barely hardened, and then crumbled. The same will happen with mortar. As for the type 1. That shouldn't go down thicker than 150mm per layer and be compacted by roller. I hope you have membrane under it. Compaction over mud would press the stone down into the mud and it would mix if there is no membrane or just rut if there is. Spreading with a tracked machine does not compact it, but is your best compromise for now....and don't run wheeled vehicles over it. An experienced builder should know the basics of all this, buy many don't. They should also expect to lose working days in winter. It's not your responsibility to keep them earning at your risk. It is too important to turn a blind eye. More detail of the hardcore construction?

Single storey is best value in my experience, even with the large roof area. That's due to ease of construction and the absence of the cost and space lost x 2 storeys for stairs. I'd say about 10% less than for 2 storey. With a standard kit building there may not be much difference though. Basements are from at least double to much more £/m2, depending on the ground, water table and the site area and conditions. Not something for the average builder either. On top of that you must allow for a high risk of unknowns and the weather. It could go badly wrong. These are factored against the land value although a small, city site is also trickier. Bottom line? I wouldn't consider a basement if other, standard, construction will work.

I decided against a hammer tacker because of the proximity of the hammer to the other hand, holding the membrane....my left thumb is virtually hurting even as I write the words.

I had the privilege of visiting a nuclear plant and looking down on the very James Bond looking hall with the cores under it. Turning 180° there was a view out to sea and about a km out, a visible whirlpool of hot coolant water. Isn't releasing energy encapsulated with the big bang, much the same as from coal, oil or gas. As you say, it can't escape, but there is also lots more of it, to not escape.

An old thread resurrected. But I have just bought a wickes stapler for about £15. Fixes membrane to osb nicely, also dpc to timber. I would want something less manual if doing a very big area.

A 600mm wall is 3 sleepers high. I meant you could set the second one 30mm further back, and repeat. Perhaps that's trivial. Indeed. The filled side is next to the boundary.

Nuclear contributes to climate change as much as fossil fuels. All the energy is being released from a historic source. All the electric power turned to heat at point of use, and a large proportion is released as waste heat at the power station.

The plastic plug method may well be OK, as the loads are well spread through the sheer number of fixings. 600 centres? But it is not for us to say, when you have an SE and supposedly expert contractors. There may be more damage, perhaps cracked but hanging in for the present. Something is wrong. Too close to the edge is likeliest. And/or Not the right fixings or hammered in too hard. Yes epoxy will sort it but the SE should specify it. Or the contractor present you with a formal remedial proposal which is not a cement and sand patch.

OK except number 10. No chance of that happening. And anyway don't we need some other funder to provide a platform to argue back against musk?

It does but it would be on your land. Dig out bank and stop short of the boundary. French drain on your land. Sleeper wall on your land, and you can step each layer back a bit and over the drain. Backfill as you go. Then you might need a new boundary marker. Is there a fence hidden in the hedge? ith th boundary being your neighbors responsibility you need agreement to repair or replace it. Also you need to keep the neighbour's pets and children safe from falling into the hole or the machinery. sounds complicated when they aren't cooperating, but maybe they will.

OK that is strong. But you may be right unless humankind becomes caring and unselfish suddenly. Or the other worst alternative is to cross fingers and carry on as is. No, it would be to reverse into turning off 'windmills'.....but half the populace might support that in their ignorance (I mean that word in its non pejorative sense.) Your solution then please.

I think hazel would grow again from the roots. Also that it propagates easily from cuttings so you could start growing some now, in anticipation. This is probably correct. Why do you want a retaining wall? Would it be above or below the neighbours' ground? You cannot dig out any of their ground without their permission. How high would it be?