saveasteading

No problem, but please introduce future queries with that proviso. it stops us going into panic 'don't do it' mode, which some queries need.

As @Nickfromwalessays. A block in beam and block can crack but not budge, and nobody knows ad nothing happens. BUT you wouldn't want a heavy, especially loadbearing, wall on it Timber stud floor plates will spread the load. masonry walls would best have some reinforcement . BUT most of all, has the floor as a whole got the capacity for this extra load?

Including the measurement, collection and the risk. I've just checked. The 1000 x 800 one we got last year was £140 incl vat, collected from the company 200m away. I paid that direct. Fitter charged £75. Yours is 50% bigger. Price thus seems fine.

Good point. They will still 'breathe' though.

I'm of the opinion that this is a good, though expensive, way of reducing heat loss yet keeping ventilation. Ignoring fire lit times, Outdoor air flows up the chimney and keeps it dry. Perhaps that reverses sometimes. Indoor, heated air cannot rush up and out. It is shocking how much warm air is flying out of our chimney without a fire lit. I had one of those umbrella thingies in our open fire but lost it...you know how. That would have been even messier with a bin bag of fibreglass, which I may stuff up. Payback about 10 minutes. Risk??

There is usually reclaimed timber on Marketplace, but barely cheaper than new. Perhaps it sells to people who just assume it's a bargain.

All good advice. Where does surface water go? Towards this wall or away from it? Keep your gravel lower than the drive so that it can hold water until it soaks away. The gravel will need cleaning every year or so but this is easy.

Presumably all natural forests have changed genetically to suit the circumstances. Then they replant as monoculture with something faster growing and alien. Commercial forests are not generally attractive to be in for human leisure, and are deserts of needles and darkness on the ground. But I still favour timber. We must wish @Pendiclewell in reusing the salvaged timber. I think I can tell C24 from C16 by sight. Especially as C24 appears to be more wide grained than in the past.

It is because the trees grow very quickly in the climate, unlike cold places where the growth rings are closer together ( eg Finland, Canada, and previously Russia). Also i was informed by a Finnish timber merchant manager that their flat land results in straightness and strength.

Sorry, you're right of course, I'm mixing up who's project we are looking at, re zero or 5% then explaining badly. This is right though isn't it. The 20% tax back on materials bought direct does apply but it can be quite a cash investment, IF it saves money at the time, then waiting a long time for it back. Saving will depend on the builder's account levels, and on how they value risk or margin on materials. I had one job where the contractor was taking some of our plasterboard every night...that's another matter though.

If Only. They invoice at 5% VAT but you can reclaim it at the end of the job, so must keep very detailed records. Materials you an buy yourself, pay 20% and also reclaim. Equipment used for construction, you can't claim back Be sure that your work complies with the requirements. Renovation does not and is all 20%. New build or conversion does, as above. And you still have to allow for the cashflow, as it will be out of your hands a long time.

Good point. A UK Power guy dated a pole to the late 1940s based on having a wide grain and lots of knots...ie a British fir tree that grew rapidly, and was all there was. Even now you can buy Highlands timber that is C16 or ungraded, but not C24.

That seems an awful lot, after a leaf filter. My 1920s brick single chamber cess tank had that much on the bottom. Not bits of leaves. Any idea what it is? would you change anything another time?

Great idea to reuse it. Its quite likely better than at the local BM anyway. Photos of it? Most timber is visually graded, from the closeness of rhe growth rings and the amount of knots. So you need help from your BM (agree to buy everything else from them) or an SE. OR you could design as if it as C16 timber and be on the safe side.

This last year has had very little input from me, but masses of work by daughter and soninlaw. They have excelled. They've been boarding in the stairway today too. A shame to lose the storage space but needs must.

got a name ? Anything good or annoying about it? eg bright display or sounds.

I see we discussed this in 2021! have I been on BH that long? But it was early days I hoping you recent completers can advise.

The steading is done. BCO final visit next week and ...ooops we haven't fitted a CO2 detector as required in one bedroom. A CO2 monitor should be permanently fixed and is required to be mains operated." Does this mean it needs to be fixed to the wall and hardwired? I . Having to be hard wired is a pain and awkward being so late. They seem to be very expensive. £150 and rising. Any recommendations please, considering cost, rapid availability, ease of installation and, of course, that they perform.

@Smallholdertoo as the others here, i worry that your designers are having trouble. This has all been done thousands of times but your people are making it up and getting it wrong. The sketches are skilled in draughtmanship but not building knowledge. Best change to an experienced designer not someone learning alongside you. Who decided on larsen trusses? Is that decision leading your whole process?

Then be sure. Inspect during and after the worst rain and take pictures. My hunch is to use french drains all the way to these ditches. That will spread your water over a big area and avoid affecting the peat. It will then spread the same water as currently, across the clay. Big storms reach the ditches. You might put a slight dam in a ditch to hold water back.

Is that freudian? Consciencous? EDIT: This typo is just too good to edit out. She's a keeper

If you use the ditch, will the water flow away ( and where to?) Or sit there until it dissipates? Any idea what the ditches were dug for?

Watch the guy doing it and ask what the cause is. I predict you will see a screw at that point. Tt may have ben protruding ever since built but some slight movement has touched it to the glass or vice versa, If so, screw it in tighter or change it. Or the glass is slightly too big and touching the frame there, again through some movement.

wise. We haven't even mentioned what size it should be relative to the frame.....leave that to the fitter too.

I have reverted to using hit-fix for this. The hole doesn't need to be so accurate. The same applies though...predrill the timber, then change bit and go into the floor, deeper than you need and you don't have to worry about dust. Then thump and it is done, but tighten if it will take it.