saveasteading

If the notches are near the ends then it probably doesn't matter structurally. Where are they? The plates shown by @Temp would be great but your point is valid and important. So you could instead simply fix the flat plate equivalent to both sides, using several screws. More thought needed if that suits. I wouldn't bother with glue at all. Standard at any BM or at SFix or ToolS. Or you could use plywood instead Again multiple screws are more important than glue. Or, replace the flooring locally with plywood, again screwed down. This becomes a top flange for the joists.

Plastic for a shed or where cost is the main concern. Metal for any permanence or if looks matter. Plastic twists and loses its performance, and will start to break in about 20 years.

I also recommend Vibro replacement as an option. Gravel is compressed sideways, looking like piles, into the poor ground, making it dense. This all then bears on the stronger ground. I've used it about 10 times on groundmuch worse than yours and with heavier loadings. Sometimes my own decision from the outset, others as an alternative to the recommended design ( client's SE no longer engaged). It has another benefit in lower mess. So better, cleaner and half the cost.

What is the ground condition? Slab is ground-bearing?

My error in non clarity. Planners required Bco to be satisfied it was started. They would only seek proof if there was any complaint but it was our risk. The bco advised what they now deemed 'started', and it was stricter than previously. He didn't know the reason, but said it was policy. Presumably there had been a dispute somewhere.

Our BCO didn't accept that any longer. Even strippng the site was a marginal decision unless on a grand scale. Banging in some posts with cross rails and painting red and white stripes had been my default for years.....they look good on site too.

That's what people assume when deliberately ignoring the agreement or constraints. Thus some robustness is necessary by the LPA.

I suspect it was propaganda by the oil and/or or climate change denying industry.

That seems to be a little mentioned advantage of solar and battery, especially in locations where it is more likely. eg in a forest.....or near Heathrow. I was going to add 'or Spain', but solar and batteries were the cause. Some alarm that you were 'off mains' would be good though, for rationing.

Building inspectors became strict on this about 8? Years ago. There must have been an issue. Whereas once you could prepare the site or put up surveying posts and profiles, they now wanted some actual construction of the primary project.. Eg a section of foundation or the hardcore for a slab.

So in a power cut you flick a switch for battery, or it simply works? Would you know there was a power cut?

What backup in case of a power cut? On which: with solar and a battery, does this work in isolation ie no need for a mains supply?

Isn't it obligatory now to have an external air source and closed circuit? It is best anyway and easy to plumb in a new build. The one I know is very efficient and gets no blowback.

I think it is simply poor backfilling....pushed in and barely compacted. The fill has shrunk away from the untouched ground. It seems to have come away from thd wall too. The only concern is that rainwater will run through these gaps very quickly. Nothing terrible will happen but I'd get them back to compact it better. It will be character building.

Jumpers off is first. I agree re trickle vents being small but it can be constant so it doesn't get si hot in the first place. Opening windows or doors at opposite ends, with internal air path open too, will usually cause a strong draught unless it is dead still. Chimneys or high vents will also encourage air flow. For anyone still designing, have high ceilings if possible. It can be several degrees warmer at the ceiling, so keep that well above head height.

That can't be right? Let's say 24C is too hot indoors. How often is it that outdoors? Open windows or vents on opposite ends and get a draught through with the new air being whatever is ambient. Trickle vents will do that too.

I would advise against working to any perceived "pass" standard. The people who make up these systems may be less expert than you. Use them as a guide. I'm not guessing....I've met some. Eg I designed a building that got an SBEM of D, 15 years ago and now gets a B. With current insulation it would get A. At the time you got bad marks for air source, and no credit for north lights. But they gave credits for wind turbines and other fads.

A couple of IBCs up on a plinth. Or being retro, a proper header tank up in the attic.

Subconscious observation of environmental issues. That sounds much fancier than my words. My summary is, I think, that it is not a scientific principle, but a means (tool) for revealing the subconscious.

As of last night I realise how easy it has become to rely on the Internet. When it goes down, it is like the roads being blocked. The same can apply to electric supply. If the power is off, where does your water come from? So a large storage tank has that advantage. It also needs elevation for gravity or generator compatibility. Or lots of bottles. Meanwhile I should uncover the dvd player and a non digital radio.

It's for a wet purpose, I'd expect connections to be waterproof. I have only used Marsh, 3 times, and it goes in the tank and no box. Otherwise, as @Dunc suggests. A drain chamber former without the bottom would be easy.

I know. But I used to be able to find drains using 2 welding rods bent to L. They would cross about 1m past the drain, each way. My dad did it regularly and showed me. No big deal, just matter of fact. Worked on drains, not pipes or cables. I can't do it any longer. If there was an electric field then a meter would detect it. So: Perhaps it is that 1. We were looking for an expected drain. 2. subconsciously we knew where it was likely to be. 3. The rods legitimised a good guess and excused any wasted excavation.

Good advice above. I have a feeling that Marmox board is better insulating in a thin board, and I remember it being nicely robust to work with. I received it on the highest authority that plasterboard joints don't need intumescent filler , but that may not be the understanding among lesser experts.

I don't think it reaches. And the other end isn't detailed into the wall. So is is on a hanger? But yes, add another bit of wood at the left so it is the same section all the way. Not needed but tidy.

Getting building regulations would need lots of floor insulation. If only for comfort then just a layer of tile insulation for foot feeling will make a noticeable difference. Carpet and slippers complete this logic. There will be energy lost through the floor, but compare to thr cost and mess of rebuilding?