saveasteading

That's a lintel. Ready-made at b and q ir any builders merchant. But home made will fit perfectly and be satisfying. If you keep the concrete on the dry side, it can be forced up under an existing frame. Don't use oil. Either remove your timber formers after a couple of hours, or put a polythene face on it.

It is as you surmised. A councillor can require it to be removed from a delegated decision, to being put before the councillors of the planning committee. so you have to convince your councillor or, very unlikely, the councillor for another ward. I have seen that . It was where a councillor was pushing a vote towards something that was contrary to fundamental policy, so guaranteed to be appealed against. I expect there are party lines too, at the bigger councils.

On which general subject of materials science, may I recommend this week's "Infinite Monkey Cage" on Radio 4, on the subject of elasticity, ductility etc. Some proper nerdy information from top experts, and entertaining with it.

If it is a small shallow drain only serving the adjacent house then it's relatively easy and cheap to move. If big or deep that won't be the case. Don't assume you will ever get permission. You need the neighbours' blessing too. Allow £10k to £20 for a simple diversionbpkus you will/ may need professional help with permissions. More if not simple.

Breathable. Overlapped. Stapled to the timber. No tape.

The walls are damp. Not very and the tendency is outwards but they are not dry. The pir is non continuous at the studs and the studs are exposed unless you put this vapour barrier backing on. The polythene is on the inside. Thats great. We are trying to keep it that way. When you start insulating the place you will decrease the heat needed, and the current costly drying of the walls.

By the back do you mean facing the exterior wall Yes. So you have the damp masonry, then an air gap, then the membrane protecting the stud and holding the insulation.

The vapour barrier goes on the back of the stud and holds it all in place. We went for 50mm pir because 100 is difficult to push in precisely and leaves gaps. But squirty foam is banned by me. The gaps should be tiny closed pockets and mot too much heat loss. Don't be tempted to cut the pir well short for ease and foam it all....I've read this is the norm by some builders for their convenience. 50mm fits pir well enough with small air gaps. The 50mm rockwool squeezes in over the pir and covers the gaps. Half as good insulation but a decent compromise. Re the wall profile, that's as I predicted above, based on ours. You don't have to make it all the same thickness eg if one smsll area of stone is sticking out, it's ok to bridge past it in smaller stud, to keep more room area.

Agreed. The proper term is dormer BTW albeit pronounced dorma in some parts where r is silent.

That's likely to be a good option. What size is the house?

There are very likely much better ways to do this, but we are dabbling unless we know the site, the job, and see the ground report. @AppleDownsending to 10 people is wasting a lot of people's time or, they won't answer. You need a design expert who works for you. Your chosen SE should suffice for now. 1. Get the slab built 2 put a house on it.

A 10m3 water tank and a turning head should suffice.

Worrying really. That drawing is pointless, as a proper expert needs to take over. You can see the issue so why can't your technician? The note should say " do not use this drawing". They dabble with mentioning eccentricity of the load. Who even says it needs piling? The choice of pile could change that whole design. Does the floor sit on ground, not piled? If you have a ground report can we see it?

I notice that your stud is only 45mm deep. that isn't strong enough for normal stiffness (it will bend if shouldered, and cracks could appear or pictures fall off. So either add to it or replace. 100mm stud will do but more will allow more insulation but lose floor space. I have no issue with having 100mm or more insulation. if you leave a gap from stud to stone it will look after itself. There is only so much you can do with an old stone wall. Also, the roof has planked sarking boards. These have gaps between them so there is loads of ventilation. 3 skin stone walls have decent inbuilt properties for losing the dampness. Yours is presumably granite which is waterproof, but needs good pointing. So I suggest you have the following 600mm stone wall gap, 25mm minimum, but it will be very variable. vapour barrier on stud 100mm stud, containing 50mm pir board and 50mm knauf mineral wool (100mm pi is difficult to fit accurately) polyethene layer 30mm battens plasterboard. This is likely to be how your stone walls are built, with the middle having lots of mortar.

You might be able to staple a membrane behind the stud if you are a contortionist. Then fill between studs. Then a service gap and a finish. That adds up to a half decent insulation. The wall itself is contributing if the outside is well pointed.

I had this recently. He was the boss so i gouldnt gomplain uiwards. Resolved it by speaking to the secretary. When she said he wasn't available I expressed how glad I was that he wasn't off ill, as he hadn't been answering any emails for weeks. Just an acknowledgement would be some relief. I got answers that day. Speak to anybody. Good luck.

Simple, and polite, but a lot of oeople don't seem to get the importance. Even a simple acknowledgement that a communication has been received or an "I'm ill / away/ busy" message helps them as well as us.

We feel warmer in high humidity. Hence 25°C feels very hot in a UK summer, and 35°C is bearable on the Med.

Picking up a few bits, technical and otherwise. Concrete water tanks and swimming pools are designed rather slenderly and use surprisingly slender reinforcing bars, but lots of them, at close centres. This is to control cracking and leaks. All concrete cracks, but this design makes them multiple and miniscule. 10m length for a pool is recreational, not serious swimming. I had this demonstrated by a serious swimmer who did 3 lengths of 10m underwater without a breath (one dive and two tumble turns). Chlorine testing and dosing is easy. For a pumped tank it will need constant flow over the whole cross section, so multiple nozzles at both ends. Also generously wide and deep or odd streams will set themselves up. Adjustable speed needed from leisure to race speed. Length of pipe and bends (especially sharp ones) create resistance but I was regarding that as a constant in a well designed flume. The sand (or other) filter creates a lot of resistance takes power, and slows the flow, but is unavoidable. 100mm insulation doesn't seem enough for a constantly warm mass.

No. A pump is intended to carry so many m3/hour for whatever purpose. The higher it has to lift the water (the head), the more energy used, or less water carried. But in a closed loop the height does not apply

If you do go concrete, ask here. It's not more, but carefully arranged that works for water.

That's not very vague. Depending on context perhaps it is pompous more than a threat. I've come across that. 'I follow policy, others rubber stamp stuff through'. What happened to them eventually, or best not say?

You'd have to show me that. They do get penalties for missing deadlines, hence approving an extension of time is sometimes sought....and they wrongly threaten refusal..... OTOH have you seen how poorly presented many applications are? I'm no lover of planning officers and they can be lazy and useless. Have any decided aged 18 to study it so they can reject development? No. Do any get off on the power? Yes. A good wind-up line.

You assume that planners are against development. They are bureaucratic personnel following guidelines, understaffed too. It is for councillors and mp's to influence policy.

That's all true generally. The developers' contributions to local benefits tend to be small. Of course the lump sums and extra rates go towards road maintenance, eventually.