saveasteading

Assuming that is good quality then that is a good price for temperature controlled tool. Keep the receipt as I have had very good and very poor stuff with that badge and others from Lidl.

Low-tech is often best. You can glue the board onto the bottom flange, and is tidy to lap the side boarding over it, and glue or screw the lap.

Faulty calculator there R=4.68 U = 0.21 .21/.23 = 0.91

I would like 9% improvement in product or efficiency any time. That makes the whole project 9% cheaper, right?.

But the same logic apples to any product. But if that really is for batts, not rolls, then I reckon they are fitted with fewer errors, as they have to stack closely or they go out of module and create more work,,,so are done properly . usually. And 0.03 / 0.035 is an improvement of 9% which to me is good in any product.

To me that should be designed as a basement, regardless of whether it is 300mm or 3m underground. Also that lower length of wall is acting as a retaining wall. So I suggest completely tanking the outside up to ground level for the former, and making the outer skin of the wall heavier for the latter. That keeps the water out and the wall stable. Then deal separately with dampness from below, so dpm and dpc all linked in the normal way. PIR is twice as effective as EPS (at twice the cost) so perhaps better in the cavity at this point where I am suggesting a narrower cavity. For interest, why correx under the slab?

Yes. Or along the pipe into the gravel, and certainly down the wall and into the gravel

I would fear that the gravel against the wall could work in reverse to your intentions and bring in water. Standard building details work, and this seems over complex to me. If water was by any means to get into thecavity then there is no means of escape other than into the floor slab.

Excellent, thanks. Just seen your previous messages. No planning conditions at all really, we think there must have been a temp handling this application.

Harmless foam gun indeed. They are banned by me because of collateral damage.

Hilti gun warning. For 15mm steel you need the strongest bullets. I took a shot for interest. Even with a warning the recoil was a shock and if let go would be very dangerous. I always specced screws where possible....and you know they are fixed. Speak to a proper fixings supplier and tell them what you are fixing. A box of very good screws is cheaper than hilti nails too, let alone hire charges.

Does it matter? I've been to pro cricket matches. People sitting reading the paper and drinking tea. Just out of the house really.

That's nothing. Once worked in a design office, and a colleague returned after a site visit, where he had found the contractor was putting up the whole steel building the wrong way round. A new football stand facing the road. I know, for some teams that might be for the best.

Without any screws, insert timber noggins vertically between the flanges, then plate directly or overstud first. Or "no more nails" fix stud to inside of flanges. Then the construction effectively clips round the bottom flange and is secure.

Everyone uses a screwdriver. There may be a cover lifter available, eg the keys afor manhole covers makd it so much easier. You can make a hook with heavy wire, through whatever holes there are, vertical force much easier.

Probably the wrong screw. There are different heads for heavy steel, usually an inset tungsten blade that scratches a hole rather than pulls itself through. With the right screw and good drill it should cut through in 10 seconds or so.

So had I until recently. It often takes an effort but I think is worth it. But more suppliers are giving in or advertising under amazon. I really couldn't find this product any other way. I had a look at the Royal Mail map of charges. Amazingly places like Banchory are charged a lot extra, and they are posh suburbs of Aberdeen (excuse me, people of Aberdeenshire)

Have avoided a rip-off delivery charge, I am pleased to say. It was just for a roll of aluminised, reinforced vapour barrier like this. I knew the target price was about £1/m2, but only one supplier kept appearing whatever terms I used in the search engine. The price looked ok and it clearly said free next day delivery UK. But that wasn't true. To get a delivery quote required a phone call, and the cost goes up minimum £40 as soon as the van went over the county border out of Perth. The supplier, in the Midlands said it was clearly stated but that is not true. They have 80% satisfaction on Amazon, mostly explained low due to extra charges and cancelling orders, but their google presence is good, and where they put their efforts. We decided that we would not use them whatever price we found elsewhere. What do you know, Amazon were spying and sent some other options through. So it is now coming from another supplier, better price and £4 delivery to the remote door next week, (Or where the door will eventually be). Beware false delivery claims which are hidden until the purchase page. I'd like to tell you their name but best not. They will likely come up first in any google search. I have no idea why some delivery companies think they have to, or can, charge so much more to deliver to the area...they must be losing a lot of business. For anyone not familiar with Highland Region, Inverness has Tesco, Sainsbury, 20 car dealerships, Screwfix etc, and they seem to be getting the deliveries without any trouble. Much as I try to avoid Amazon, I couldn't find another good value source on this occasion

It is used extensively in huge projects such as motorways and estates. However it only works if it reaches another layer that can accept all the water and so this is getting technical and expensive. Also, they fill with muck and need the gravel replaced every few years. And there are strict rules to avoid the localised water flow causing sink holes. So not for a little job unless you happen to know that there is a layer of porous ground, not far beneath the non-porous surface.

I know an Architect in Kent who specialise in new oak, and old buildings. General design too and I even used them myself for a commercial building as they understand cost and value. Don't know if that is any use to you.

But most of us use aliases and don't give precise location, just in case.

You are very welcome. Tell us more please about your project. We give and take, and learn.

If the surveyor tells you there is subsidence , and that means you will pull out, then you don't need a written report. That can halve the fee, as it saves time and there is minimal legal liability.

My experience with boards: Keep the lengths down, perhaps requiring occasional vertical break features. Otherwise the twists in the boards cause a problem with laps (the highest bit of the lower board and the lowest bit of the upper board dictate the spacing, so it is worse with long boards. Get it on site early in case it has some severe shrinking to do. Colours: whatever you pay, they all fade to grey, unless you use the wrong fixings in which case there are nasty stains, esp with cedar. A timber merchant showed me a trade document on red cedar, which stated that red cedar was only weather and pest resistant in colder climes. Britain is too damp and it doesn't get to dry out. He sold lots but never promised it was a good idea. My choice (agreed with clients) has always been to use standard softwood, pre-treated as tanalised or protimised. Left to shrink and twist for the summer, then stained which keeps the same colour for many years, depending on colour and exposure. If stained too early, any shrinkage will show strips of un-stained. A merchant will give or lend you some sections to take home and hold up to the wall. lapping a few together is important to see the effect and coverage.

And anywhere. Too many are only knowledgeable in a very small sphere...eg structure but not cost, aesthetics but not structure, New starts, read up on here so that you know a bit about everything.