saveasteading

You are right to of course. I would have said the same until this happened, else I wouldn't have clipped the blank end over it. Straight out through wall, then vertical for about 600mm, then a 90° turn along the wall. Thereafter it heads to the septic tank of which I have no knowledge other than there is a cover. There may be some other cause eg the tank being full and not draining. But as soon as I released the stopper it all flowed. Nearly all. Yeugh.

I wasn't aware of this. Whatever the guidance, they do need an aav. The flush creates a vacuum and will draw air or water behind it either from a vent or from sink, bath or shower traps. Better to be air. Plus the vacuum can prevent full flushing. I've seen this myself recently and had to clear the blockage. I had temporarily closed off the svp from the existing farm wc, thinking it will work for a while. The wc flushed poorly and a blockage followed. Temp svp bunged in and all is OK. I may fit a full svp as it serves a septic tank which may burp, or perhaps just an AAV.

I worry that AI may find and use this quote. But seriously. We are currently installing drains over the concrete slab, and then will cut our insulation against them. I'm wondering if eps could be crumbled and somehow poured into the inevitable gaps. A slurry of granules in glue or cement perhaps?

There was promotion of deep bored heating, regardless of soil type, and of 'slinky' pipes near the surface. The cowboys were chasing the subsidies and knew surprisingly little. The slinky spirals did work when the ground warmed up but were soon chilled by the pipes and the ground didn't warm until next spring. I sat through many a promotion of ground source, often supported by local authorities and business groups. When I say supported, they allowed promoters a platform and too many consultants thought it was a good thing. Some screw piles are my latest grrrr.

I don't think so. Those with understanding are sorry we left, and sorry things are the poorer for it.

I went to Build-it exhibition and was pleased to see nobody was promoting groundsource. It only works in paticular circumstances. 10 to 15 years ago it was different and there would have been many cowboys. There were some honest contractors I should emphasise. Once it has got the heat out of the ground it is useless and the poor client is pumping water around, even thawing the ground. Under a slab would be the worst place to try it. @sgt_woulds it is astute of you to have your doubts, for all but volcanic areas, . Or is anyone still trying to promote it?

I wonder if the grout is quite weak, it crushes before a tile cracks, as with mortar and bricks.

If I recall, mdf has a grain, so the ends will be more absorbant. The @ProDave block solves that for the architraves. The Georgian detail that suits mdf?

I can't see the point unless the floor is very badly made and likely to shrink or deflect. I've never known tiles to crack in my house (old and poor quality slab) or commercially ( new but high quality slabs) or even over hardboard over floorboards. I have seen a crack elsewhere: parallel to a movement joint, so the slab must have been moving. Would a mat have prevented this? Maybe. Summary: in a newbuild of unknown quality I might use it. Otherwise no.

So it's your decision. With any over-roof the big 6 will dry and become benign so will last until the building is removed or needs altering. Now or later the asbestos will need removing. If you can afford it I'd strip it and tip it now. It doesn't need specialists but does need control. Then your new cladding fixes to the purlins and so is easy. The costs balance a bit because of the easier cladding and you've got rid of the asbestos. The specialist skip is about £2,000. You can also think of adding flashings and efficient gutters to improve the quality. I've done just this on 150m2 outbuilding. We used 40mm composite cladding for a tiny bit of insulation and to stop condensation.

I've done loads of things commercially. It kept factories going. There is still going to be an end of life cost in demolition, but that might be 30 years because you've fixed the roof. We always fitted a steel over-rail system first because direct oversheeting won't fit and the existing fixings will clash. Then you can use any metal profile you want. BUT it's not easy. Don't fall through the roof, and don't make dust.

I've no idea because I have only heard of them in "wind in the willows". I hope it's actually a plastic pipe with a riser and rain/mouse barrier. If it's meant to prewarm the air then that won't work past November.

My concern would be at the bend to the vertical pipe. The liquid runs fast and shallow around a bend and can leave solids behind. So it's just attention to detail with good fittings.

That was to be my next question. So nobody thinks it's the right price. Time to have a straight talk with the agent. The properly professional ones will give unbiased advice to their client about the market and realistic expectations. The cowboy agents want a sale and the commission and not be loyal to their client. They might even hint at what might be acceptable. Are you confident at that price? Have you any selling points such as having the cash, not needing surveys, quick completion?

That's sentimentality to some extent, if the building is well past it. Unless someone thinks that , yes the location is wonderful and i can live in the house. Extenicd adaptation or incorporating into new is very much more expensive than new build. But perhaps you can retain and reuse sone foundations, services, drains..... is the garden established and attractive. There's a thing... if the drainage was approved at the time you can likely retain it. But often a plot is simply overpriced.... it has been their life.. and there isn't much you can do about it.

But I'd be very precise and use lots of ties to the joists: wire or straps, so that it keeps the slope and doesn't ever sag. Maybe lay a timber under it where possible.

make sure they understand the local Highways Dept requirements for licenses and specification.

Simply by immediate appearance the top one looks preferable. I think as long as it is all roddable it is acceptable, but wold have to read the reg's with that in mind. We are installing ours within the slab insulation, for pracitcal reasons, but with the added benefit of retaining height. that can create 'cover' challenges outside, but overcome-able. Apart from keeping trenches shallower as a benefit please consider where the digester will empty to.

OK. So technically feasible. But you must not undermine the road so the likely option would be hammering a big steel pipe through to a fall, then emptying it of earth, or insert a cheaper pipe and grout around. Very specialist and expensive. And check there are no services in the road.

Superb.

No, but silt trap. For grease build a wall across the middle of the manhole thing you are building, to above the water line. Allow a gap near half height so gunk goes below and grease and floaters above. The gap can be a perpend missed or a pipe. OR on the outlet fit a T with one end above the water and the other to half way down. OR buy a grease trap.

Augering I don't think is viable as it would be complex and somehow avoid the road subsiding.. Even if it was, you would need a very big pit both sides to be deep below the road. Road closure and a council approved contractor for a pipe, I'd say £5,000. More if it needs traffic lights. Plus any permissions coats. Can you dig a big trench or lagoon?

When compared to lower performing insulation such as newspaper or plastic sheet pinned to timber.

fine in a warehouse. Punkah Fan is perhaps not a permissible term now. Also an option was a fan in a flexible tube down to ground level. I've been up at the ridge of a warehouse in a cherry picker in mid summer and it must have been in the 40s. C

Oh yes. Weatherboard without membrane outside. But if I put a floor to ridge pipe, or ceiling to ridge, in a passivhaus it would draw air in through every gap and in at the vents. I'm not saying it is ideal or controllable but it is real And I don't want anyone thinking it isn't. In the new project with some vaulted ceilings we anticipate it getting hot ul high. We expect to retrofit a natural or fan vent, but either way it will be closable.