saveasteading

Yes. And so much simpler and you keep control. I've been responsible for hundreds of industrial floors, and would not dream of it for domestic situations.

It is B, but turning it up against the wall is good. Just make sure it is below the gravel for appearances.

A new burner should not emit too much heat to the sides, or through an insulated flue. If it's an old burner then it won't meet regulations so I will be careful not to encourage misuse. Eg insulated flue, chimney liner, air intake. I didn't know what SBR was but looked it up. Does the brickwork need coating or protecting? Is the SBR to be a coating or a mortar additive?

And you employ them? Seriously though. Every construction project should have a waste minimisation plan. Most involved have some vague understanding that throwing away a brick or the end of a timber stud is waste. Putting that good brick, or is it hundreds? in a 'rubble only' skip is then regarded as good. Very few designers give it a thought, leaving it to others. Recycling can be an excuse instead of not wasting material in the first place.l

That's OK if there is a slab under it, which takes the weight of thd gravel, and if the tank is tied down.

If you are insulating then screeding over the top , then the slab can be very ordinary in finish and level control. And thickness. The screed sorts it all out. @flanagaj can we go back a bit? Where are you on programme, floor construction logic? Who told you to go for power float? As you see above, people have tried and had to grind and fill, which defeats the object of a 'finished' surface

It occurred to me that this would be the best source. They will get rid as soon as call-outs become too frequent and hirers complain. They might be fine for a while with careful / caring use. Where do they offload (pun was not intended) them? Eg car leasers send to auction at 3 years, likewise main dealer trade-ins..

OK I've had a very quick read. If, if, if. If all waste at the lowest rate was charged at the highest rate. That doesn't appear to actually be anyone's proposal, just a "what if" option. If any designers could design with waste in mind..... well some of us do and always have done. AND it was even part of uni training. Eg a motorway is designed with a cut/fill balance. No earth goes off site. By raising of lowering finished levels, widening banks, crushing rock etc. Contractors are usually better than consultants at it because it's their money and they understand reality. Ceiling heights. How much timber is wasted off a 2.4m or 3.6m or 4.8m or 6m balk? Choose to suit. Changing heights or spans can make a huge difference. Etc. Any Architects on here want to contribute? Self builders of course don't waste much on site, but may be stuck with an over-design. I may add more about skips and waste handlers later.

I'm too suspicious that these will be on the point of clapped-out-edness. We had a very good groundworker who we used for years, and he had lots of costs and delays for repairs, esp with tracks. One machine he abandoned on our site. Any advice?

I have looked but can't find this story. Could be a windfall tax on developers. The landowner effectively pays. Field worth 30,000 is suddenly worth 500,000.

So you are building a very small industrial unit? These specialists do huge slabs, say 1000m2 in a day. They would turn up with 8 workers ,concrete pump, 3 power floats and all the kit. 2 of them stay overnight for the final polish. That isn't what you want is it? PFF is not good for a house. Can you explain why you want it?

Membrane yes. It prevents the gravel and sand mixing and becoming nearly a solid.

Not concrete against the wall. Let the water drain down. These holes in the mortar half way between air bick and render look like injection holes for a chemical dpc. As if the building didn't originally have one. Other people may know better than I. The air brick is probably to ventilate under the floor. Is the floor timber? Where is the floor level relative to this picture? The doorway is the easiest guide.

Agreed with @Mr Punter. I've just done this to lower some ground that was too high. Finished level of gravel at a brick, or more, below the dpc. This is so that splasing stays below the dpc. My gravel is about 25mm deep on membrane but deeper would be better. Use non-woven membrane (looks like felt, not cloth) so that weeds don't get through. Be sure that the ground below is permeable, or dig more out to hold more water. Pea shingle is a third the price of crushed stone and easier to handle. And at some stage it will be filthy and need cleaning or replacing so again pea gravel as new stuff will match.

I've never tried one, but often observed. Professionals will tend to have the biggest as there are fewer passes and lips. But these were handled by very strong guys. My hunch is to use the small size for control. There was always a lot of shovelling and shaping pre bull float. This was usually a pump mix concrete which is easiest to move around. What is your plan? As I must have said 20 times before... do not add water. Thinking more, isn't a tamp finish more appropriate? In which case the tool of choice is a straight piece of 4x2.

But no point. The joists themselves are the thermal weakness. Suppliers will do that for you, but assume 16mm pipes at 150cc. I like your principle, but if it's re "carbon" then the lifetime of reduced heat loss prevails. If it is because celotex and kingspan should be avoided on business ethics then I agree, but there are others. But for being breathable? I'd have to think on that.

This is the way if mixing on site. Position a board (600 high or so) at about 300mm off the tank, and pour your concrete or gravel in there. Backfill the rest, pull out board, repeat. A small digger to fill the hole is preferable to barrowing. Saves money on concrete or gravel, and in muckaway. This process may work with ready-mix too , IF you have the labour to speed it along.

After it is faded to grey you can't stain it natural light colours, only dark.

I'm moderately happy at 150mm depth but pir not woodfibre. There is diminishing return after that, esp if you are turning the heating off at times. But then on top you have an option of material. There is a 22mm ? Eps panel system with pipe grooves already in it. Or simply pin the pipes to the pir. Then pour self levelling screed 40mm or more over the top. But thicker insulation is better obviously. And i agree about stuffing under the floor if you have access.

These are also made for hot flues. The plastic is red for clarity. I can't remember what "hot" is defined as... basically anything more than ambient I think, but up to very hot from gas burner flues.

Agreed. We are glad we did that and that the bco agreed. Externally, you should read up on best practice guides. Lime coating the whole face is not great unless the masonry is soft or really rough. Limestone can be soft or hard. Yours?

Some fundamentals. Don't dig the hole bigger than necessary. You have to stop an empty tank from floating. So a)if the water table is low then no risk. b). There are several ways to hold it down and that isn't with total concrete backfill. It depends on the tank but the Graf pic above shows holes through the base for bars or ties. Options are 1. to backfill in stages with concrete against the tank and earth away from it. 2. Concrete slab as a base and tie the tank tied to it...then all fill is acting on the slab and it won't move. ..in which case gravel surround will work too. You mustn't have anything against the tank which might puncture it eg fill with bricks in it. But some tanks may have other requirements. But some tanks instructions may be overcautious. If the hole is filling with water during vjnsyruction it's going to be a good test. Dig a sump lower than base level and pump from there. I wonder.... could those auger piles sold for decking and fencing bases be used as anchors. Or platypus anchors?

@Jess Shannon Welcome. The weather and physics are the same so on practical matters there is lots of knowledge on here. When do you plan to start? Are the stone walls about 600mm thick? Granite or what?

@kandgmitchell that's nicely explained. Going back to the actual regulation is often the way forward. If you can summarise the logic in meeting the requirement then the bco can more easily be 'reminded' of the requirements. If it is written down then it can go in their file.

Diversion. Seen the news today on failed external insulation ? Appalling.. Find it on bbc news online. I never did trust 'trustmark'. I wonder how many of the cowboys will be held to account.