saveasteading

Use one and they will be visible as 2 differing shades due to the light intensity and incidence.

I'd be asking them to specify what they require. They cannot insist on one supplier, crittall. When these Rationel heritage windows were launched both we and our window contractor saw them and thought ahaa, that's the answer. True enough the listed buildings architect approved them, having previuosly stated "only crittall". About 10 years ago? We also used an off the shelf door with skinny bars, but I made out it was special. It is usually worth the effort of a fancy presentation.

This is Rationel . Otherwise look for "heritage".

The skinny window bars is all that matters for the retained appearance. So the modern equivalent has exactly the same appearance with main frames matching your main sections, but infilled with single panes, rather than multiple small ones, and dummy astragals inside and outside.

I've replaced critall with a dg lookalike on our listed building. It looks the same which is what matters.

I've just come across suppliers of tube and plate and fixings at very good prices. metals4U sort of names. Google it. Better than going through ebay I'd think. eg I wanted a pair of steel plates cut to length 4.6m long. They arrived in 2 days for about £15 delivery ( obv not by Evri). So your poles could all be precut to length by them and you know the fixings will be compatible.

In most new buildings too. It's just worth the exercise to see if the numbers feel compatible with your issue. I've got a pair of 100m tapes for this purpose. Where the right numbers cross, I drop a brick on the ground. I can use hitech stuff but this works better and doesn't need calibrating. Later in the construction the same tapes remain ideal but the brick becomes too approximate and is surplus.

sometimes the non-expert ( you and me in this case) have ground-breaking ideas... BH is very good for getting these ideas tested / debunked. The issue perhaps is that they want the coolant air, which is quite warm, to disappear asap, whereas you want it to be enclosed somewhat so you can draw on it.

Hadn't thought of that. yes we should do that. It will restrict flow to some extent but we must try. But it would be best if the appliance has an automatic shutter, which is what I meant in your second query. No, in terms of having a draughty hole in the room. Wow. You won't get much kit for that. Is that simply a fan unit with heat exchanger and no ducting? Ive seen them and expect that the expelled air is drawn straight back in and the intake air is sucked straight back out.

When the timber is completely dry the mould will die or at least sleep for ever. No water means no rot. However, there are hot and cold pipes in the same space so there will be condensation. The pipes should be insulated. BUT the plasterboard has to be changed and you have this half done already so probably best to replace the timber, using preservative treated, and insulate the pipes.

I have asked several heating companies over the years why they don't harness the cooling emissions form chill-stores. They say it is a very inefficient process. I'm more inclined to think they'd much rather put in a chilling system for the factory/warehouse and a separate office heating system than do anything complex. Or their suppliers simply don't have the technology. Can't they at least have the heat pumps for the heating system close to those for the cooling systems? Apparently not.

Update. The big outlet pipes for the island hob fan are in, and laid to a gradient on eps. There is a very noticeable draught at the pipe , even though the building is a long way from enclosed. I was surprised at the amount of airflow but assume that the very strong wind is causing this. I have asked the family members who researched the hob, if the appliance is shuttered when not in use, or an always-open duct with a fan in it. We don't know. An 8" hole in the wall would not be acceptable , but that is effectively what this is. I've suggested we put an offcut of plasterboard over the hob when not in use.... apparently that wont be aceptable. OTOH are standard cooker hoods also open to the outdoors? I think so. Re the stove. The Steading (complete) has an ultra modern wbs, with direct air feed. It burns incredibly efficiently and there is no suggestion of smoke ever coming into the room rather than up the flue, or of any air leaks trough the door. I think you don't have to worry about interaction at all. And I doubt that mvhr is appropriate either, based on the info provided. Do you mind saying the cost level? to that add for some builders' work in getting the ducts around the place.

@flanagaj if this is your first time and a diy pour, we can help re level control, and waste avoidance.

It may still be worth checking that squareness is the cause. If the building is rectangular, measure diagonally and they should be the same within a few mm.

OK, I had misunderstood the question. You want to pour it in one go but get the trenches inspected in two visits? That makes sense as you can't get back to the rear trench after the front ones are done. I reckon BCO will be fine with that. Explain it and they should be ok.

No. It is the battery thing! A car in a detached garage is low risk to the house, but if there's a room above then that sounds scary... though the door should fail first and vent it. I will report back. I'm thinking an extra layer of plasterboard and intumescent strips on the door. It appears that battery type is the most important thing.

I agree with @DamonHD. It is not for the average resident to attempt, and very sloppy. And they should check all work by that operative, who doesn't appear to be competent.

Exactly that. A 100mm /110 round pipe will do but it is recommended (and my hydraulics training concurs) that the bigger pipe is better. But in your case I'd continue with rectangular, on an outward slope, even 1:150, and on an eps layer...even 15mm will make a big difference. It simply struck me when looking at it.. steam goes in and will very soon condense. Btw, money aside, look at the island extractor on show in Wickes. Push a button and it rises. Very nice. And I was impressed they had it installed and working. Contrast that with Howdens who have their hob hacked into a standard unit and no ducting installed even to look at.

Ahhh. That depends on so many other factors. Also note the cost of several visits with pump hire.

We have decided to do this rather than recirculate to the room. Wastes heat in winter, but avoids overheating the room in summer. We are installing it right now and realising issues. The best size of duct is 140/150mm. Obv you can't have that. It sits on the concrete with insulation around it. Will condensation form in the duct? I'd expect it to. And will water get into the pipe from cleaning the hob? I'd think so. So we are setting the duct on thin polystyrene. Also setting it to an outward slope so any water runs away and out. We have the depth for this but that is unusual. I'm going off this hob with extraction. It was never my choice, and we are realising these additional unpublicised issues as we go. NB maybe a rectangular duct will work better for you. It will be less efficient fir airflow, but your distance is short, and if will fit more readily.

I just wouldn't. Easier and better quality to batten out and plasterboard. Look into metal grid as an option to timber.

Spread of fire and destruction of the building and beyond... the people being out already. It's what I thought I was saying. The order of priority. Avoid fire Keep people safe Get people out Stop the fire spreading to other buildings Save the building If we can keep the (battery) fire enclosed for the input of some design, care in construction and a few £, then we should. So I will bd asking our solar people about the risks and what we might do to reduce them. I suspect they will know less than the assembled expertise in this discussion. My hunch is to use low risk batteries, with an inherent suppression if possible, and to keep it an an enclosure (small room or cupboard) that is 120 minutes construction, incl the door. Vent to outdoors to remove heat?? Include a fire alarm.

Yes. It is normal to work in stages.

There have been a few people who won't listen and think everyone is against them, even getting rarher rude. After a few attempts to help have been ignored, or met with hostility, I think we have to let them stew. Construction is not easy, but some people assume it is. @WisteriaMews sketches or photos give us a chance to help.. And at some stage it needs expert professional input.

Will he love you for adding a service void?