saveasteading

I hadn't heard of such a thing, so I googled it. Not to be relied on of course but often tells us what non-professionals are assuming. It seems to me that it is intended to mean a method statement for the demolition phase of the project. This is routine and the builder will do it. It doesn't get submitted but is a formal document which you should keep in case something goes wrong.... look they said it was all worked out. Its actual purpose is to make the builder plan ahead and avoid danger or damage. A demolition notice is online to your LA and routine. I can't say if you need one as don't know the nature of the work. You are at the start of your journey you say. Good luck. Does this involve major demolition or adapting an existing building? At some stage of smallness it moves from demolition to simply being part of the works. If it is a lot of demolition then it may be worth getting a specialist demo company to do it... they think differently and efficiently. You probably don't need an architect to engage a planner to either engage a builder, or just issue a generic ' be safe' document at your expense. But tell us more.

Could you adjust the insulation. Why is it so cold? Mains water is at ground temperature. Perhaps introduce some reduced insulation somewhere along the cold line, so that it warms on the way?

Don't you just need to close the door?

I haven't heard that before. And either it has 'just been done' and I haven't noticed or it seems cautious, as I have no recollection of any issues (a few family projects and accommodation, but lots of commercial, sport and education). Is it to stop deflection ( and tile cracking) from accidental shouldering, or for supporting appliances* ( in which case noggins around 600 up i agree would be prudent). * do people stand or sit in basins? But changing 600 to 400 for the smallest rooms is easy so I'd like to understand the perceived concern.

Because it depends on the circumstances and the product. Eg timber is combustible but may satisfy the requirement.. it chars and needs lots of heat and air to burn. Some firestopping is plastic wrapping to an intumescent core. The plastic melts and the core expands to fill the gap (it is like cigarette end ash) If you don't need the ventilation then timber or rockwool may suffice to fill the gap. But you also have to convince the bco And they need proof, eg a test certificate matching the proposal.

Crushed concrete. It usually comes with soil and other people's demo junk in it, but in your case a bit of earth won't matter.

Looking on the positive side then. You presumably got the drawings done for a few hundred. ditto the SE who did some calculations but not site detailing. Then the builder or trades are not project managing so have not added costs for this or for any risks. So you should have saved a lot of money towards whatever comes up. It's a commercial decision that you have taken, Some things will be required that you had not foreseen, or were even aware of. The building inspector is not your designer so will be seen as the nasty ogre who says no. You must research thoroughly and its a good plan to chat it through with the builder but do lots of reading up as well. Here on BH we can advise on the principles but not take any responsibility, nor spend much time considering all aspects.... and we may be wrong. eg I'm not opening the drawings and spending time studying them ... that's what you pay designers for. So get reading and sketching and BH may help with simpler questions.

getting seriously off topic...

I've had the briefest of looks at two drawings. It seems to me that this is useful in showing all the geometry but leaves all detailing to others, prob esp the builder. There is generous use of terms like 'as necessary' or 'in accordance with'... etc. these annotations are probably cut and pasted on all similar designs, maybe even auto generated. Without seeing your contracts with architectural designer, SE , builder to see where responsibilities lie, or if there are gaps etc I can't say much more. When details like your question arise, and excuse me if you have answered already, it should be the experts that deal with it, but you appear to assume you have responsibility. So I'm guessing that the architecture was for an overview and no detailing. If so then you are relying on the builder whose brief is... what exactly?

Another thing could be the cavity being bridged by dropped mortar. Although if the cavity is fully filled with insulation, that is unlikely. Do you know the detail? Which makes me think... do you have the construction detail? If not then ask for it.

Yes and it's wise. But I've got a pipe that rises to ground level, put in by someone else decades ago. It's under a low use perimeter gravel, so I've squeezed 30mm of gravel over and have no concerns. A paving slab would be better but would look wierd. I would have done more under a more accessible area. One of those pragmatic things where no harm can befall.

Not that I trust Kingspan certificates.

Where else do Christmas decorations go? It really depends on your storage requirements and opportunities. For the cost of the ladder and a few boards you remove the stuff from a more valuable space. £/m2 is very good. However well you do it, with seals and insulation, there will be some heat loss. If you do go for one, then I recommend a permanent ladder, either sliding or scissoring down, rather than a stepladder or standard one. Much safer.

re networking. it is a great way to share the burden. I get the impression not many on BH are near me. I would describe our location as in the middle of the mass of Kent and Sussex. Why do I use a pseudonym? I don't want people wandering to our project(s) uninvited, and too many clues flags 'building site with stuff'. It isn't for only me to decide, as the family is involved. Pessimistically, what if I've done something to upset the authorities and some proof is on here. If I give technical advice, the anonymity gives some protection against any repercussions, including simply getting hassled if someone disagrees or it doesn't go as planned.. and emphasises that there is a distance between me and them. eg someone showing my short advice on here to a BCO isn't going to go far. Similarly nobody taking advice from here would be under the allusion that this was equivalent to proper, professional, paid for , advice.

The oil isn't the same product. I didn't know this til recently. Neither do the campaigners and anti-green journalists whose messages go far and wide. Or if they know it doesn't suit their narrative. Ours goes away for turning into chemicals, and we can't run our vehicles or heating off it. And it gets ever more expensive to extract as the volume and easy pickings diminish... as I understand it.

Yes. When I see the similar chat pages on Facebook I realise that a lot of these people need tech advice and encouragement, but are getting decent advice mixed with bad. I realise I can be brusque on here sometimes because sometimes the message has to be to stop, think and get good advice. To most people thinking of self build I'd say allow 25 % more cost, 50% more time, and really consider not doing it. It was my career designing and managing, and I get things wrong still. How difficult if it's all new. I add my name to the list: pm if you want advice or support that isn't public.

It's not the BC system that failed here but the builder, as you say. And if the builder causes a problem, however much it is unforeseen by them because of lack of knowledge, it should fall to them to resolve it. They have overstepped their ability. Your design but they thought they knew better? Or have I missed your point? what was the fault with the BC system?

You say first floor so I hope this is a UK definition, ie the the ground floor has been fully insulated. BUT just in case this is US definition I'll write as if that is the case because it would need immediate attention. Superfoil is utterly useless in this context. as others say above. Which also demonstrates that your builder is not knowledgeable on such matters. fyi, it is ok for improving the wall or roof of an attic or outbuilding. It is not used ever by commercial designers or contractors (with knowledge). Most also curve up to the centre. Be sure to check levels everywhere. I don't see why that is relevant. With more detail I can be more precise and relevant.

Cheap but noisy, and easy to fit, but just for one room. But buy in southern Spain (prob france too) and they are much cheaper...and noisier. If that was running off solar and battery that shouldn't take long to pay back.

The integrated ones I have bought are guaranteed 3 years and say they last 40,000 hours. And as they aren't as expensive as they used to be , and easier to fit, I'm happy. Meanwhile the replaceable ones on some other lights seem to need changing quite often and it is a pain to get the holes to line up.

That's done. Thanks all. Very impressed with TLC. I ordered yesterday pm and it arrived* mid morning via their own van. The nearest depot is about 12 miles away. It was all ok to fit.... for ease I used the cable off the old light so just had to prepare and insert these into the snap-in fixing. The only issues 1. I took family opinions and all said the existing light was yellow. But compared to this new one they look blueish. hey-ho. 2. On tidying up I found I'd forgotten to fit the snap-on orange cover. I cant see that it matters but will accept advice. I'm not being lazy, much, but fear for retaining springs falling off or damaging the plasterboard edge any more.... it's a bit rough and oversized. Of course when rummaging for a bit of cable that I didn't even use, I came across 2 spare LAP downlighters from a batch for elsewhere in the house. But I think these are nicer and quite a few years newer is probably good too. * "Arrived" . A term that doesn't always apply to Evri , who last week delivered something to the wrong address (the postcode epicentre) and have had the replacement for several days too. I wonder who TLC use for deliveries outwith their SE branches region. " Outwith" a proper term that spellcheck doesn't recognise.

That's not bad insulation. the first floor insulation is irrelevant too the rating. 600mm earthwool to roof? really? and 150mm PIR to the rest of the roof. I dont have figures to hand but that might pass.

But have yph changed from 100 dritgerm to 50 pir? Much the same performance?

There is a brief and clear explanation of Venezuelan 'oil' reserves and value on 'More or Less' BBC Radio 4 . If I recall : there is lots. it is tar not liquid. Has to be mined not drilled and is expensive to extract and to process. reserves means viable commercially, so that varies with the price of oil.

i dont know, but doubt it. all the plys in structural grades are high quality but can be ugly. Other ply tends to have pretty faces and cheaper inner cores. The marine ply should be strong enough but is surely better kept for an exposed purpose.