saveasteading

Absolutely not venting into the void. Condensation and damp will be caused. Your void should be vented but not enough for this purpose. There is a risk of grease and other foodstuff buildup too, if the filters fail. The hob extractor is for the cook's visual benefit and comfort, and heats the cook's feet and the room rather than wasting it. I assume the filters are efficient and take out the smells. Ventilation of the room must then be by fan to outside.. heat recovered or thrown away is your decision. So in your case just a simple fan with a switch. I've looked at these hobs. The duct seems to be quite small and convoluted through the kitchen unit, so the fan will only be powerful enough to vent at the skirting as designed, not through additional ducting.

Thanks I took all your expert advice to do it again properly. Everything tighter and a dab of fernox to make sure. In my defence... Knowing more about steel buildings than plumbing... if there is a leak in a steel clad roof the likeliest problem is a screw with a complete bodge covered in mastic. Second is a screw overtightened, breaking the seal from the washer.

Unfortunately it doesn't follow that they understand what standing seam is, and the measures required. The consequences of a bad installation could be dire. But some good ones will know and do it appropriately.

I see there is a selfbuild exhibition in Farnborough in January. Free tickets being Facebooked at me, but I won't be going because of distance. Any of you experienced lot thinking of going and reporting back? I'd do it for the team and the greater good, if it was close... might have to have a cover story to get taken seriously as a potential newbie I suppose.

(cheaper than plywood) In a Spanish diy store, a solar panel 2.4 x 1.2m is €88 Inc taxes. External ply in the same store is €57. That's close to The OP's headline. I don't think that in B and Q, you could load a trolly with solar panels, inverter etc. There's a kit of 2 panels inverter, batteries, plus all electrics back to the switchboard for €4,000. I expect an instruction leaflet is included. Sounds scary to me.

Yes that's trapezoidal. I have only flicked through this but it looks as if they are fixing only to the crowns of the panels. The steel will be 1mm thick or so. I hope they have an approved spec for the right self tappers into that panel, or it could end up on the car park, come Storm Sod.

Full report later. I'm pretty sure it's only when flushing. Spellchecker changed that to blushing. It was late so I just emptied the cistern, mopped the floor, opened a can and hoped for a plumber's secret to be revealed. Eg whatever you do don't under/over tighten. There are no instructions and the bottom nuts are plastic, so I assumed that it should be finger tight only. The new gasket is a foam rubber thing so could be squashed a lot more, for better or worse.

Be happy. Do something else then decide if it really still bothers you.

There was a leak at the rubber doughnut thing, so I've fitted a new one, and new bolt connectors. But it's as bad. I have either over or under tightened, I'm thinking. So tomorrow I will try again. Daylight will help. Should I add plumbers gunk as a matter of course? The instructions say nothing. First though I intend to fill the cistern, but not flush, to check it's not at the fixings.

Great . That's the entire point of standing seam, with the appearance becoming a sales thing later. It would be essential to fix through to the structure. Hence my concern. Cladding flies off or holes in it. So I agree that you retain the house roof as intended and forgo solar on it.

Wind wise as @Gus Potter says , a good SE won't be phased by this, or the snow buildup. I have heard of bad installations through standing seam though. Your average contractor doesn't know about SS. Is yours fitted by snapping onto brackets that are fixed to the roof? Is it floating? Ie Allowed to expand and contract? More later.

What is the stone construction? Dressed or rubble? Granite/sandstone etc?

Thanks @dwtowner. So you really want one. So ignore my sustainability debunking opinion but do take on board my practical points. You've told the planners you are doing it so you must do it , or ask for permission without due to new information received. I seldom disagree with @Gus Potter. But I hate internal gutters as they are very risky unless you maintain very, very regularly. And do get the roof designed for the very heavy load. 6x2s will become 8x2s or v close centres. And have a ladder fixing point as you will be up there rather a lot. Keep us informed of progress on gutter design (have an overflow as well as the dp outlet) membrane choice etc.

Using timber. First build your cupboard. It will stand on its own without fixing to the slope. Then fixtothat o the slope any way you choose. Angles? Or just long screws into plugs. Continue that top plate all round the wall. Fix ceiling battens. Add noggings or dwangs (by geographic location) to stiffen the other way and for ceiling board fixings. Will the domestic sounds from the pipes be an issue? Yes? Sound proof. No? Leave the ceiling off for the 'honesty of the space'.

You'll walk past it without a glance after a while.

At the time I was doing it, that was not the case. The roots were, I think, the issue. Re credits, how true and what a con./ colour. How do they measure 'unproductive'. I'm aware of one such farm, where they produced sheep and hay. Now being planted with trees and meadows. Surrounding farms are identical to my eyes. It's a business. I feel it's misguided but haven't studied the subject. But preferable to green roofs which would better have solar panels on them and lagoons and ponds below.

New to me, thanks. The new "snibbo" from reading the blurb. Will it work on all brands and sealants?

The problem with that, unless products have improved since I did one, was that UV resistance and root resistance were not available in the same product. It's noticeable that green roofs no longer seem to be promoted at construction industry exhibitions. I think they were targeted at architects, "sustainability consultants", and planners and had their few years of use. They were top of the planners' hierarchy of rainfall solutions: they couldn't explain who decided that. I pointed out, and presumably others did too, that ponds would run dry and newts would die. Better wildlife ponds, meadows and rainwater harvesters. @dwtowner I know this sounds a bit of a downer, but if you would respond with your aims we can try to be more constructive. It's just that I know the sheer cost of these in construction and msintrnance ( many times more than the sellers say) and my priority is always keeping the weather out, as that is what a building is for.

That would be rather complex. You've got me thinking: I think I'd want some guaranteed water path beneath, eg perforated pipe and gravel, but then it would probably silt up and need cleaning... so just assume the rain is not being absorbed and runs off as in a normal flat roof. @JohnMo rightly says to avoid a slope towards the house, and the channel. if you do nothing else, take that advice and slope it away. what happens if an external gutter is blocked? It overflows to ground. If it leaks? It drips on the ground. With a channel that is a risk. When I have been made, as a contractor, to use a channel I've added overflows /weirs at my own cost.

You are looking at a tiny area so it is just a trowel job. Use a plasterer's float to smooth it. After an hour or so you can give it another smooth over. If there are ripples then you can rub them off later. Or as above, leave it low then use self levelling.

Firstly let me say that I don't favour green roofs at all. Had to build one once, but otherwise have always argued successfully with the planners against them. ( ie that there were better sustainable solutions.) However, let's assume you are determined. What slope are you using? It's a very heavy thing. Make sure your roof is designed for it. Wet substrate, plants, people on it, snow. Ice. In extreme weather there is no capacity to absorb rain and it will pour off, or through, your roof. So I say, have a significant slope to one side and fit a normal external gutter. Your little downpipes should also connect by a pipe just above the roof and get the water off there. I presume you have a spec for the roof waterproofing. Remember that it has to be special to withstand roots but also resist sunlight at any exposed spots. Also remember that you will need safe access for weeding without risk, replacing dead plants, removing litter and dead birds etc. I'd be interested to hear why you favour it. If it is for climate change resistance then ok but do add a water barrel which will have more immediate benefit.

You're right, my apologies. There should be though, and there certainly are on main sewers and i would apply it for bigger buildings. I guess it doesn't matter much to society. I wonder why they dropped the regulation. Let's just say, it's a good idea to use a steady gradient so that it all flows nicely.

You should work it out before going any further. There are maximum as well as minimum falls. And to get a depth that satisfies the regulations but minimises excavation.

@BenGillyHills Have you calculated the falls?

I have a jetter but would choose to rod it first. That way I would feel where the problem was and note for a remedy or the future. Also it won't burst any poor joints or old pipes. So the regs are sensible I think.