saveasteading

I wouldn't think so. I was more worried that some people will run with the free info, whereas there might be more to it than they have said. Also when doing sizes there is a risk of making errors. Perhaps no risk of being successfully sued, but any hassle wouldn't be fun.

I meant retailer, but of course you can get a specialist contractor.

In an open plan office the various staff complain about it being cold while others open windows. The solutions are either a clever aircon system or dummy thermostats around the wall...especially if they make a nice click at 22.

It depends so much on the barn condition and what you intend. I have seen some professionally, and declined the work, where the remains of the building is of no value and a huge hindrance. (I didnt want to be involved in an illadvised, underfunded project). Our family project is 400m2 and the projected cost comes to about £1,000/m2. Looks like ending at about £1100 despite many setbacks. BUT, a local Engineer (obliged to use one) said his fee must be based on £2,000. I think he would be right if we did not have family design skills plus a lot of diy. So what sort of barn is it and what condition? If it is several buildings , you could , of course, phase the work, also learning and optimising as you proceed. Esp you will have ended up with a team of builders you are happy with for phase 2. Sacked some, learned of others.

Normal practice in commercial projrcts is to have a pair of identical pumps at the same level. Each is sized to cope with predicted quantities alone, and due to some clever control box they operate time about. This also provides for a backup. To prolong their lives the sump should be substantial and is allowed to fill a bit before one kicks in. A secondary float is higher and turns on the second pump if the first is not coping. There are also warning lights for operation and showing a fault. This kit is not cheap, so it depends on your perception of risk and value. I would contact a local pump specialist. It is surprising that this is a sustainable business. They tend to be small businesses with multiple suppliers, and lots of advice. A phone call first.

To me this is very sensible. I took this picture in a Spanish supermarket. It confirms that it is the law (royal decree) to use sensible heating and cooling. No heating allowed above 19C and no cooling below 27C. Everyone seems happy with it all year, although it helps when the natural temperature indoors is 23C in November, aided by chiller waste heat of course. In fact I suspect that the heating/ cooling is seldom used as I have never seen the temperature being 19 or 27. If I was in charge in UK I would apply this immediately and permanently. 19C is just fine. A good idea to make it public too.

Agreed. The damage to the appearance of the building is done. Building over it may well be acceptable to the planners, esp if you can find a way of reflecting the look in the area. The foil stuff you mention isn't magic. It has to be hung loose in a cavity.

For the timber windows into stud we used straps into timber frames and they will be concealed by plasterboard For the aluminiums into stone we are going with plug and screw through the frame into the walls. This provides a little more give than concrete self tappers and I have found the premium plugs to be very good . As we are screwing straight into a 600mm ashlar sandstone wall there is no insulation layer to concern us. Then to the top: expanding rubber(like) seals to the front (if the frame will allow) then high quality foam behind. No mechanical fixings to the arches. Unfortunately the window supplier has provided link strips that are different colour to the windows...so another delay until I can report back. It is fair to say that the bco is being very helpful. He clearly likes what we are doing and appreciates that leaving an extensive cold bridge* (some masonry exposed internally) is reasonable for aesthetics and heritage. He also spotted an issue with headroom for the stair....in good time before it was made. Impressive. *We can readily add some extra fibreglass in the attic to offset this scientifically, and burn a few more homegrown or scavenged logs in reality.

When I was an Estimator, it was clear that the build cost was mostly down to the design. 5 or 6 contractors would quote from drawings and bills of quantities and be within 10%. Moving to design and build projects, the range becomes 100%. Again this is down to the design skills of the contractor and/or their consultants. For clarity...we quote £1M and a competitor quotes £2M. 100% Why? Because one contractor knows where costs lie and can influence efficient design whereas another leaves it to a consultant. So you can surmise that main contractors will have minor cost differences on a given design, depending on overheads and efficiency. Of course there are savings for project managing/DIY but also risks. If a house is costing anything over £3k/m2 it is in your hands to accept of reduce it.

Gus, you are doing so much detail here which is wonderful. I think I would add a standard sign off saying that this information is without full knowledge of the project, and unchecked, and as suggestions only, and an SE should be engaged.

Anyway, the boundary is where it is agreed to be. The fence is a separate matter.

The red line, if scaled, measures most of this foot. Boundary lines can be very approximate, unless based on a visible feature. So I, as others, am wondering how the discrepancy has become apparent.

Let's say you can build it yourself for £1k/m2. That does not include your labour as a cost, and you will be very good at avoiding waste. Add 50%....£1.50. Allow for using a series of building trades instead. Add 25% for their costs and risks. £1.90. A main contractor adds another 20%...£2.30. Then there may be a PM. But let's now say the spec is a lot higher. That £1 becomes £2. The £2.30 becomes £4.60/m2. How much can you do yourself?

No reason to doubt it. But I still say you do what I suggest above. I have just about done with the discussion I think....now up to you, and do keep us informed.

We have a very large quantity of salvaged granite blocks, some very big and sort of round. My son-in-law is keen to use them for landscaping , in walls and features, so the big ones need splitting or shaping. If I was to encourage this by supplying the necessary splitting wedges, is there any advice on quality, and number? I have seen them on Amazon at 8 for £30, and elsewhere at £30 each. nothing in-between.

I'd like to see how this is made, because a warm pipe running through a cold isn't going to do 50% heat transfer unless it is multicelled like a radiator or air recovery box. I'm all for this working, but have been discounting the ones I have seen over many years...maybe sorted now. As PD says above, the water isn't so hot by the time it reaches the drain. In a 'man shower' as he calls it, the tray is taking quite a lot of the heat out...which is heat recovery. In a long shower this changes. So 50% recovery of not as much as we would like. These are only for cold feed instantaneous showers too, although with extra plumbing the cold to the mixer could go through these. Plumbing getting messy.

Yes you can. If their Engineer is fully qualified, and has PI, then going straight to ultimate experts can save you a lot of money. I am just concerned that you are still talking to Sales, and not Engineering. Imagine buying this house, then the injection people turn up and shake their corporate head. So you must get a written quotation, and written assurances from their Chartered Engineer that this is the correct proposal for this house, and confirmation of their insurance cover.(which should be in Millions, not thousands.) Part of my concern, and others here I believe, is that this process may close the cracks but not resolve an underlying problem, Underpinning takes foundations deeper, where the ground is more stable. I understand that the resin just fills gaps between the foundation and the wall, but please advise.

There is negligible bending stress at the end, so it is fine. The bco should also know this. But if he doesn't, tell him that you know it is not ideal, but have been informed that there is negligible bending stress at the supports. Then you may just end up needing proof. I'm sure it will be easily explained in some book which we here might find.

Even college trained tradespeople have great gaps in their knowledge. I suspect many tutors don't know in the first place. How beams work shoud be fundamental training to sparkys, plumbers etc. One hour talk with hands on examples of the effect of depth, and how the middle is neutral space. And then there is airtightness, vapour barriers....

In collapse maybe, but they can start to bounce excessively, and that is part of the design assessment.

Yes that seems clear and is normal. A drawing and spec, in sufficient detail for the highways Engineer to assess and accept. So the acknoeledgement seems to be for the record, but you wont be considered as started yet. The 14 days is punitive, but it should only need a couple of hours design and a nice letter to go with it. It seldom hurts to be polite, so i would probably email the officer to apologise (if your architect told you, you must have misunderstood) and say if you will comply/ be a bit slow...and is that ok?

Cost per m for silvershadow's benefit? Or if that is commercially sensitive, a range. I assume that an insurance company or mortgager would want it professionally supervised.

I think the argument is the other way round. Not, this has heating so is regarded as a house so you must insulate it. But, you have a space heating system, so you must not waste energy. Then the targets kick in according to use. Using local infra red heating does not require insulation.

Not everyone is clever. Not all clever people have the faintest idea about technical stuff. Some people have little time or money. Some people are lazy and selfish and uncaring, but that applies to all of society. Doesn't the landlord inspect his own property?

Welcome. I look forward to your input.