saveasteading

Any walls of my own design are without movement joints. Where specified by others, they are built, usually with a steel behind to compensate for the weakness created. None have been a problem. Bricks expand after manufacture, as they cool down. Blocks shrink, as all concrete does. Get aged, cold bricks, and aged blocks and nothing moves. But that is me with my own insurances. Best do what you are told.

Length x depth x width in m3. Multiply by 1.7 and that is the weight you need.

I like lateral soakaways. Just a French drain dug parallel to the slope. Same construction for the drain feeding it. Lots of volume and lots of earth contact. On top of that, it increases the chance of finding fissures for the water to run through. Use agricultural drain pipe for economy. Even use oversized or doubled for more volume.

Billy the fish spits it out again Bamboos will take over. Water lilies for the summer. Don't forget to add water barrels to the proposal.

I thought I would look this up, as I recall reading that uk electrocution is far less bad than other countries. No luck yet but I did find this table. No further comment. Number of deaths where the underlying cause was exposure to electric current by sex Also this : injuries where we shrug and say it was always going to happen: Since these incidents are so common, there is a higher risk of fatalistic injuries.

Yes buy a big bag. They will sling it over your hedge etc too.Cheaper yet is to go along with a trailer, then you aren't paying for the single use big bag.

County will have drawings of every road in their responsibility, with colour coding showing carriageways, verges they look after , other verges and details of drainage. You could ask to see it. As I have said on bh umpteen times and as@joe90 says above: the rain falls there now snd goes somewhere. If you think this through you can make it ,,," not worse" for a start. Do you think it just folks away or does it run ans sit somewhereand them go.. where? If you have room and willingness for a pond then it is an easy start. There is a large surface to earth but also evaporation. Later, plants will transpire some away. Roots and even the holes left by rotten roots can also lead water away. My next favourite is to use only French drains. They provide even more euracd area and links to roots. Depending on gradients they might gold a lot of water too. All at a fraction of the crates cost with added plant and animal life. Tell the youth that the fish and newts drink the water. Overflow to ditch.

I have to ssy that I see little excuse for allowing building in a flood zone. It's a shame for anyone with land there of course. I got an industrial buiding accepted on the grounds of exception....if refused then they would relocate. Nothing suitable nearby so local jobs would be lost. I was pleased that I succeeded, but privately don't think it should have been allowed.

The thing with piling is the cost of mobilising. The piles themselves can be less. Then you break the tops off and do trench fill concrete.

Thqt looks like crushed shingle, so has some interlock. It will do.

Ground moves all the time. You are removing some ground and then km posing the shed load so it could bulge up inside, at some stage.

I would expect them to ask for a sequential test even for PIP.

Ground moves all the time. You are removing some ground and then km posing the shed load so it could bulge up inside, at some stage.

You can do almost everything.

See what he already knows based on the above. He should know what your ground is likely to be, from experience. Until an oak, or similar, is about 23m from the house, it has an effect.

In my experience electricians don't like 'builders work',or setting out the cables. So you could probably do that and all be happy.

Not really, because trees continue to grow to the heights shown, and the growing requires water, and roots spreading too. Killing a tree stops the annual cycle of absorbing the water in summer, so the ground will still expand in winter..perhaps for 2 years. Most people think that the roots cause physical damage. This happens, but shri nkage of clay is the main risk.

Your example of possible issues is a good one. Until you know how you plan to build the wall, you don't know your insulatin level, bur you don't even know how thick the walls are, or your room sizes. Then ig affects foundations , floor and roof. So saying "to achieve 0.18" is not design just a promised target. Don't like this part way approach.

Trench depth whether original or reduced ground level. Reach of bucket and stability of ground The require depth isforbelow thel finished ground level....where dampness will be steady.

Welcome. Don't be shy any longer.

My rule of thumb on heavy clay near trees is Strip footings down to 2.4m Piling if below 2.5m But depends on job size and details

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Yes. Ask locals and builders what they did, but as a starting point. Your house presumably isn't on piles so probably the exension shouldn't be either. Don't assume that the SE knows the costs of things.

The rain lands there now, so where does it go? It is simply wrong to connect rainwater to a foul drain. It should not have Neen suggested and should not be considered. What size is the new roof? As you say, test the existing rainwater downpipe to manhole runs. Get drain trace powder from a bm. It shines fluore ent so is easy to see. Whatever you do don't mix brown drain trace powder into someone's jar of instant coffee for a laugh.

I was once unreasonably annoyed when my business won a sustainability award for saving tons of carbon through efficient design, but had to share it with a hotel that was using coffee grounds as mulching...