saveasteading

Do they still use composted housse waste? Should be ok I bought dobbies and westland but they seem identical certainly plants donplants don't like them: scrunched up trees I use it as a much because no weeds will grow.

Commercial compost or your own?

They will issue a lot of resin too. If your stove has smoke burning flumes then most should be burnt up....if not then it will coat the flue and dirty the roof.

One of these and a 7 lb hammer

Clarify please. Seeds just planted? what for compost.?

My dad could saw through 6 x 6 oak with either hand, from above or below. It looked effortless which may be the point.

Indeed this reminds me of a main contractor client who pinched an idea from me, trustingly offered pre_tender. There were swings and roundabouts and so they way underpriced. To their credit their director admitted this and the naughty surveyor was soon gone. You will need professional input, we only offer advice and ideas

I always assume that the rubber won't work and the wind will blow water under. Therefore I continue the slope fior about 200mm past the door. Then the wind struggles and the water just runs back. I tried to patent this but was told it was too obvious.

On the phone or email tomorrow Tell us how you get on. It would be great to know ASAP about the depth If you are friendly with the neighbour. All you have to do is lift off the manhole cover. It might need special keys from toolstation screwfix or wickes. You will see the drainage channel Put a piece of timber across the hole, resting on the manhole frame. Then measure down to the bottom of the channel. This is known as the invert. take pictures. Then tell us what you find and see. What is the manhole made of? Brick, concrete or plastic? Put the cover back on. With that info we can look further ahead.

I'd say don't bother. Relax for now and see how it turns out. It doesn't turn out shiny like diamond, just abraded by fancy carborundum, and at great expense.

So we now know that this is a 150mm diameter combined drain (ie carrying both rainwater and sewage. And that in nextdoor's garden there should be a manhole cover The water company will have this same drawing, with additional info. Ask them for the full drawing, and btw isn't this sufficient to deal with their own question? Anyway you need the full drawing from them. It will have a table with all the drain and manhole cover levels

extreme temps to re coat after 3 hours, so I did that at around 21.00 I know the stuff but only ever used it indoors. There is a small risk of excessive evaporation out of the slab edges, esp once the shutters are off and if it is breezy. You could easily wet them if so inclined.

Firstly look at your deeds, just in case Annoyingly the next dource is the drainage company, so it seems they don't know. Maybe phone and ask. Next, you draw it yourself you may need your builder to lift manhole covers, especially if in the road. Come back for more info of what you will have to look for and report. Do you at least have info on the drain you want to build over? Posting it on here would allow more help.

A like is insufficient. Brilliant rock snd thanks gog thd info. Don't eorrh zbout the visible fibres they zcuff off under the tiniest ftiction eg foot traffic. Also the concrete finish looks fine. Try not to look at it and the appearance will improve. Some of the messier areas are surface laitence or froth marks from the coating. Does your varnish completely seal the surface or do you need to wet it again? The shrinkage cracks will be starting about now. Do not panic if there are any rogue ones. A minor thought.....the shower and bath drains could go to local soakaways as Grey water, if that helps in any way. Brilliant work though. Well done indeed.

I mix it at about that but I can't see it can do much harm, especially if from a good mix of plants. It gives me some satisfaction to put nasty weeds through this useful end.

So it has just never dried out. Fresh air should do that esp in summer. Open windows. remove a floor board or more.

Steel into concrete is fine. In fact the chemistry protects the steel. The problem is in getting the positioning and height right. Galvanised steel or fully protected timber are both suitable. If you can keep the area dry by diverting rain and encouraging airflow ieither should last many years.

Mould dies when the dampness is removed. You still have to find the source of the water.

Looks good to me. Diy fertiliser has to be best. When it stinks so badly it must be effective. For new readers. Collect weeds especially the succulent green ones like dandelions and nettles. Place in bucket and compress. Fill with water and weight down with anything 2 weeks or so later it will be brown and stinky. Decant into a large plastic bottle, or lots of small ones. Use slightly diluted.

Carbonrundum stone. Presumably it's negligible thickness so it doesn't really need tp cone off. However an addition to scourers is first to use a scouring block......a carborundum or just a brick its an official way of knocking cement lumps off concrete being less abrasive than a carborundum stone. The latter will do the best job if if has to be clean. Nb the brick sheds dust so have a brush handy.

Grp sheetstuck down then a painted coating?

Good info. To me this is better than the average site in the se where we've been building on tips for decades. Founds to 2.2m seems conservative, with firm ground at 1m. This has really got my interest xnd I keep thinking "what would I do". Much as I love innovation I think oois would stick with traditional here. The 50 years life often surprises people. When deciding what load needs to apply, there is a conscious input to make on this because of the increasing possibility of high wind and snow loads. The Romans overdesigned.

Yes. Not just in case though. Essential I'd say.

Welcome. I've been in construction for 50 years, but learn a lot on here, and there are plenty of practical experts. Join in too where you can.

Yes it's that simple. A buoyant bubble of gas that reached that point will force through any tiny gap, so don't have any gaps. Another solution is to thread a perforated pipe from there out to fresh air. Ask more if necessary. But barrier and tape is the easiest way.