saveasteading

From quotes we got 2 years ago, and not used, i think it was about £1100/m2 for the basic shell.

Is it your land? Yes? If should be easy enough to drain it away. No? Pond on your land.

That's really all you should expect on here: an overview. Beyond that there are site specifics, complexities and liabilities, and it is time to pay a local expert.

They aren't your designer though and won't want liability eg if there was some unknown factor you hadn't told them. There is an interactive page for engineered joists in the James Jones website. No prices given but i have often found they come into their own at 4.5m of more. I reckon that your solid timber can be the cheaper option unless you can increase the depth. That's a big span though.

I googled it and found one easily enough. BUT they are made in different ways according to the factory setup. Do you already know what dimensional constraints you have, or can you still change, for example the depths of joists? Who is designing this?

A quiet chat with the manager (don't talk discounts at the sales desk) will ensure the best prices. It works both ways though as they need a profit, so the one merchant needs nearly all your orders. Free delivery by hiab is a bonus. Give them the chance on all orders. Be prepared to let them be a close second sometimes and still get the sale. Eg £5 more on a dozen mastic tubes. It's the big quantities where you then get the benefit.

Crazy idea? Extend the building to the slab size in timber. The tiniest extension ever can have doors all the way and can be used as storage for garden stuff. Or the same but just 600 high, with hinged sloping cover .

I don't think it matters. That's an outlet on the left and so water won't rise above that.

That is called a half block. Hammer and bolster and bang. It would actually be better to use a cement of plastic board as, theoretically, the plywood could rot above a damp void.

Remove one completely. Fit the ducts. Lay plywood cut to fit what gaps you can, and anything else in the fiddly bits..eg expanded metal or sponge. Mix up some concrete and infill.

Lay down a perfectly straight timber 3m long. Measure the gap, both sitting naturally and with each end pressed down, and the opposite end rising. 3mm maimum is required in warehouses and sports halls. Worse than that is OK in a house. If it looks OK then it is.

It's the best time to check. Presumably you've had record rainfall like everywhere else. So if it's OK now it will be until the next fludde.

Sudden thought. With that slope, any water teaching the gravel will travel down the slope to the return at the bottom. You must have at least one outlet there or it will build up locally.

In Scotland there is no building notice option. If you absolutely know what you are doing, then this is a pain and a huge delay. As a strong positive, the risk of disagreement is removed before the start. Even more of a difference is the need for a designer to be on the register: no diy. It's not a closed shop but for a single project it wasn't worth me registering and we had to use a local engineer....another story.

This is all necessary site preparation to keep the staff safe and well. It is sensible to design it to then be appropriate for the project. Eg it avoids the use of chemical toilets.

Ideally there would be hollow blocks and reinforcement, or some other stiffening. But it's not high and you are draining the water. It will be OK.

The gravel let's the water flow to the weepholes. So it's OK. Geotextile folded back and between the gravel and topsoil presumably? And relax.

Says a company keen to sell ufh. That will lose a lot of heat. With only the floor slightly improved, 8% perhaps. But you will improve the roof and walls and windows, and that floor loss will become 80%. I would say ufh on 20mm of eps is a very bad idea. Even upgrading to pir would double the benefit, but 20mm is still not remotely enough. So it seems you have been given bad advice. BTW. Welcome.

No. Geotextile is permeable. Its function is to keep muck and clean stone separate. The pressure is reduced by having weep holes through the wall.

Welcome. Your input may be very useful.

It's a guess due to the scale ( a long shot, due to the long shot. Sorry) It may simply be lichen caused by rain dribbling slowly from the assembly, and some shelter from the wind, and thus the roof being wet for longer.

I just came across this. Unverified. Out of the box Starlink consumes 120-150 watts. With a DC conversion the consumption drops to 36-72 watts.Jul 17, 2023

I'd suggest giving the fire alarm some thought. As developed for recent Scottish regulations, these are now wireless and cheap. You'd need a plan and the bco agreement but I'd think it might be accepted.

In a closed space , the discarded air needs to be replaced through an open door or under it if there is enough gap. But a corrugated duct and restrictions such as bends and a small outlet are likeliest. Has it ever worked properly? Original question.. Yes you can plug it in the adjacent room.

Is there any advantage in fitting fibre cable between the elements and as distribution? If there is, is it a diy job?