saveasteading

I've just had a professional demo gang on site. A big job with 7 workers, lots of fancy kit. Not much wood involved but some (a skip?). They showed me that they only use a battery chain saw because it is light to handle and easy to get into tight corners. When up on a scissor lift or scaffold this is much easier and safer to use. Much the same size as the pic above. They do need to feed it with charged batteries, so a few spare and an hour of charging at a generator or neighbour would sort it. For steel cutting they were also using small machines, with 100mm ish discs, in preference to big ones, although they had all of them too. re the skips. talk to the skip company as it will depend where it goes. If it is all going to an incinerator then there is probably no need to separate. They will know but they may not tell you where it goes....I was told that Kent stuff goes to Germany sometimes.

Do it properly say I. Although the water is nearly clean, you wouldn't drink it or use it in any way, so it should not go into a water course. My only issue with drainage fields is that the reg's vastly oversize them. So I designed ours to be made in phases. Phase A was accepted on its own at inspection.. as hoped.

Duopower. They distort to fill whatever space there happens to be, and then behind the surface like a butterfly fixing.

The new Fischer ones are stunning. They are in TS or SF. I can't remember which. Actual Rawl should work OK but of course the name is abused. Matches do work, but for a curtain it's best not.

Found it. It still exists but it is too thick to be practical for domestic insulation (about 250mm) unless there is also an inner skin.

It is the case. It doesn't sound as if your architect is up on the subject so you should get reading. Building regs document b

a good point. i haven't looked back at this project's details, but being under 1m from a boundary changes the rules. plasterboard will suffice inside, but the outside needs to be non-combustible. so cement board or masonry/ maybe brick slips. If it is only spread of flame , then maybe some paints will do it.

worst is even worse. not if done properly, yes if chucked in with lots of voids. the extra labour for doing this properly is covered by a reduction in disposing of it. I doubt that made any difference. it might have done if there had been any objections, but you imply that there were not. The LA has quotas to fill and they get government money per unit x 3 years and the rates.

I am no expert. I am rubbish at plastering. But I did a render onto block walls in Spain, using a local product. One area had a first coat to get it a bit flatter. an another was straight on. The blocks shapes are visible. The product was very smooth and stuck on well. It isn't good work but nobody could say that it isn't rendered, and it keeps rain off the blocks. If it helps, I think it was this, and it came in white or yellowy/ sandy colour. Suitable for external, and waterproof. 5 euros for 25kg. probably twice that here. At least you might talk to your local proper builders' merchant.

I wonder why the mineral wool market has given up on this. There use to be Crown Floor Slab (Owens Corning) , with r= 0.031 I used it in an upper floor once, mainly for sound, with the floor boarding sitting directly on it. And is there another economcal way to put a metal roof on a shed conversion? 150mm of Composite is a big lump to buy and to handle. I will look at built-up with mineral wool.

That is fair, or you would not have been asking on here. that would be a lack of design expertise, absence of furnace tests and not having appropriate insurance. Not stupidly so if you can shop around. OR buy the cheapest one that has the fire resistance but may be too thin for structural use, and fix it on osb.

Render it. Get a diy friendly* product that can skim on roughly. Let it have swirly trowel marks in mediterranean fashion.. You can apply a finish another time. You of a pro. * with latex in it for ease and stickyness.

There must be a use for a tubular lump of silicone.

This should be routine. Change spec from plywood or osb, to cement board. Do you have a plan? My view us that sips gets specified by architects for schools etc, and isn't challenged so it's easy money. I've been confronted for 20 years by glossy mags telling me it's the only way. Some fall for it. You have not. For a while you were convinced by the spiel, but now you move on.

My greenhouse sits on gravel grid, which works nicely in hat spilt water disappears, and i think in heatwaves some moisture reappears to reduce the plant stress. in the 4 corners and 2 midpoints i have replaced with paving slabs and screwed the frame down. This is to give a bit of weight against the wind. My garden shed is on 100mm of concrete on earth. Plenty. Far too much really but getting 2m3 didn't cost much more than 1m3.. Nobody ever fell through a paving slab.

i say unlikely.

On old agricultural corrugated cladding, asbestos or galvanised, it was fixed by hook bolt from on top of the crown, to under the purlin. For modern cladding, which you are calling square, there are screws through the bottom/flat/ pan, directly into the purlin (or first through a skin of insulation) pulling it all tight. There are still some screws on the crowns to link the edges of adjoining sheets together. there should be mastic tape at these joints in most situations, to keep out water and draughts. If I wanted to fix corrugated cladding 1. I would question the choice. 2 it would be through the crowns but it would need special screws to resist the cladding ripping down over the thread. These have an additional coarse thread under the washer that should hold the sheet up if it gets stood upon. These are 'stand-off' screws but I wonder how commonly they are used.

yes. although they do not liaise with each other, they usually have a joint boss. Write a factual letter explaining the circumstances to the head of planning, that you thought that bco advice meant that planning would be happy with the changes, and ask what is the best way forward in these circumstances. OR speak to your local councillor, and they may assist. Officers theoretically report to councillors. You will probably get an agreement to submit a minor amendments application.

marking the floor where the drips land is good tip! (I took photos of the four wet spots on the very wide ceiling but your method will be much more helpful.) Is that black hexagonal top just "for show"? The plastic caps are for show. Is everything in pic 3, above, just a "slip-on" head with a washer beneath it protecting a screw? No If so, should I prize off by inserting a screwdriver underneath the washer, or between the head and the washer? prise off the plastic cap and leave the washer alone until examined I'm just a 70-yr-old homeowner who can attend to basic repairs. My tools are no more than a range of spanners, screwdrivers, hammers and other basic items. I don't know what a "clutch drill" is. 😁 I should have said torque settings perhaps Can I remedy the situation with the tools I have? Yes. if the screws only need tightening then a socket spanner will do it. it will only need a half turn or so. To replace I'd suggest a battery drill is almost essential. most have torque settings. Borrow one? A socket spanner might do it? Im not recommending this but, in a push I have used a ladder , tied on to the gutter and 3 rungs past, in line with where I want to work. then if I was to slide, the ladder should provide restraint. Of course you really should have a scaffold to access and to catch you. the screw on the right has a plastic cap on it, as left. If you have a specialist fixings shop near then I'd recommend going there. Even for a tiny order they are likely to be very helpful, and they will have a variety of thread sizes. You will not need that self drill point.

As long as it is heavy duty, not just weed control, then almost any will do. like this.https://www.toolstation.com/heavy-duty-landscape-fabric/p62380 if you need to lap it, then the lines show you how much. Non- Woven membrane can be stronger and doesn't get the little gaps between fibres that the above woven one does. but the Toolstation one is for weeds only and I can imagine it tears easily.

Be very careful here. This used indeed to be the case. On many projects I would put in pegs and 'profiles' and paint in red and white stripes to be obvious. Now, and it will depend on your authority, that is seldom enough. I now do some substantial work that involves having building regs registered and some physical work that requires the bco to visit.

Hooray something I know about. The screws are rather randomly fixed. Several areas seem to be missing fixings altogether, so the sheet is not properly fixed down and may disappear in a gale.. Crowns (the 'up' bits are screwed just a few times.) The close up of a crown is unlikely to be a culprit as not much water will reach it compared to the ones in pans. At least one of the plastic caps is not flush with the sheet. They are not seals, and only for show, but it suggests that the screws are not tight. Some of the screws may have missed the purlin, which is likely only 40mm wide.. They would have no purpose but have made a hole and will not have pulled tight. Mark the floor where the drips land as you will forget. You only need to tighten 4 screws at most. Drips can be direct from screws or they run either down the panel or along a rail to the lowest point. From this you can narrow the search area down to a few screws and fix the ones that need it. The tops of washers are usually aluminium. The rubbery bit will seal against the cladding in a primitive washer, or squeeze into the thread in a classy one. Apart from not being quite 'home' the other likely issue is when the screw has spun and the hole is too big, and the screw not gripping. For a bodge you take the screw out, squirt some mastic in and replace the screw, or use a new one. That lasts a few years and may be what is causing the problem. For a proper job, you need a screw with a wider diameter as it will cut a new thread and grip properly. We called them 'repair screws', but I don't think it is a common term. These don't need drilling heads as the hole is already there. The screws are turned using a Tek head. It is just a hex head but is the right size. Use a clutch drill to avoid over-tightening. It is worth getting these screws and heads from a specialist fixings supplier. Having written that I realise there are lots of possible problems, but just one proper solution. If a simple tightening doesn't work, then replace each (four?) with a slightly wider tek screw. Or just do that anyway. Be aware that more screws may also fail in time. There will be more errors than just the screws but if it is working I guess you live with it. You don't need new caps but it probabaly looks better with them. Plus. Don't fall off the roof, and don't lay your drill down or it will slide away.

Technically these are formers for concrete. Anything else is a cheaper, inferior variation. I've used all variations acc to purpose and situation.

@SteamyTeawill summarise I expect, why cooler is actually hotter except when it is even colder.

That may be a matter of area. Whatever the size, there will be a fixed cost of hiring the pumps and floats. Plus it takes many hours to wait for the concrete to go 'off' which is a cost too.