saveasteading

You might be cheaper buying new panels with delivery included. 6 months hire= new purchase price. Or buy second hand at £15 for a panel and foot, and rent a Luton for the day.

Good. So why do you need a long beam?

There is a some overstatement here perhaps, that one or the other is pointless. That what people here have decided to do is the only right decision. It will depend so much on the building design, lifestyle and location. The extremes may be a passivhaus in an urban situation, or a conversion in a rural situation. Most of us are in between. For anyone who doesn't know. A modern wbs takes air by duct from outdoors and draws nothing from the room. I think either or both options could be justified for the right circumstances.

Well, then anything over say 1,000 acres? Agreed but: The value is what is left after deducting all costs and profits from the sales price. Thus it varies by location. £10k or £ 0.5M or £1M / acre depending on where your farm happens to be, and where a red line is drawn. I think a high proportion of farms are leased from a huge estate.

CIL isn't paid by the vendor though is it? GGT I'm confident can be lessened by accounts processes. Perhaps others here know more. Nearly all land was taken by the man with the biggest stick. There was always an inherent risk that the community might want it back, or some recompense. So the landowner with 1,000 acres releases 1 acre for £1M and pays 30%. Keeps 700k for the hols.

You can't choose this. You would first have to convince your local coucillor, then they can ask for it to go to committee.

Yes. I've had a few decisions go my way when councillors decide. They are people, influenced by the applicant's case. But it may then go to appeal and be overturned back to the officer's original decision.

Differing efforts required and different risks. I spoke to a farmer last week who is 'growing wildflowers' this year instead of wheat. I think he meant a mixture of 'nog worth it' and grants. Lots of farms are shutting down. Brexit, fuel cost, labour. And the value of redundant barns. Some plots with planning near me are £1.1M / acre. Previously they were farmland at £10k. I'd tax the vendor that at 10%.

Its not easy to rrad, but some material prices look very high. £85/M2 for wall tiles. £25/m2 for plasterboard. Even if they have added 40% to these. Talk to them about you buying the materials. Some may welcome you having the hassle and risk, and reducing cash flow.. Some will want to keep that margin

In other words it is messy. This is a big job for, presumably, a major benefit. Not everything is diy suitable. 9m is a very long span. As above, the beam can be made in sections, with joining plates to bolt together in place, while all being supported. As a rule of thumb, a 9m steel will be about 450mm deep or more. It is a big job. Maybe they should be worried. The loading on an attic is far less than for a room. Perhaps they haven't troubled the building inspector. Are their floors bouncy?

It's sortable. The screed will shrink, not expand. Then these will pull out. If they don't then just cut them flush. The levels change is silly. Get them to grind it locally. Ignore @Dave Jones he enjoys winding people up which could often cause serious distress. Occasionally something he says is accurate... this is one of the 95% wrong. As @Kelvinasks, did they use spiders/ triffids? If not, then check all areas. Roll a golf ball and see if it runs straight. Check clearances for doors.

As above is correct. And the use of tiny bits. When replacing, it would be better to use one bigger piece, ie a single piece goes back in there, not 2 tiny cuts.

They are a Mediterranean thing. They work well in keeping the sun's heat out of a house, because they cool again at night. But not so great at keeping heat inside a house. Also good for rendering. There is a place for them, but in UK the normal materials are likely to be better value.

Declared a 'cleaver ' person i should retire now: lay down the sword. So a cleaver statement is called for on that subject. Here goes. What I used to repeat to keep business relationships in perspective: None of our clients wants a building or to pay for it. They just need to keep the weather off their product / staff / family. That doesn't apply to banks, corporations or billionaires as they want to be noticed.. but they were not our clients.

In case there is any doubt, I'm only helping an honest solution.

Actually perhaps it is more complex than I thought. Your analogy isn't great but let's persevere. Most baths have a plug on the bottom. If they only emptied from the overflow, being deeper would not help other than hold some water for a short time. Rivers have their outlets at the end, not the bottom, and being deeper does not help flow. The temporary volume from dredging is a tiny proportion. The earth goes where? Oops you are winding me up aren't you.

You're not saying to lie ? Would the rainwater then suddenly disappear?

A common misunderstanding. That would require dredging all the way with falls to the sea, and then into the sea......oh dear that wouldn't work either.

Yes do that. They do look like the right people for it, maybe just not into what they see as alternative. Maybe there is something I don't know yet. "No rain off site" is something I've done loads of times. It's what happened before there was a building. Sewage rates are charged on the amount of water you pipe in, plus a rainwater allowance. . You have to tell them there is no rainwater to drains.

Yes . Plain English. The requirement. The constraints. The site circumstances. The solution. All of that in a quick overview, then again in detail. I'm happy to look over it. They are probably Structural not Civil Engineers. Many default to holding the water then releasing it slowly as that is what the big housebuilders do. No water leaving the site is best practice. It also reduces your drainage rates dramatically....every year for ever.

Ideal. There is an enormous surface area to the sides and bottom of the trench so even a poorly percolating clay will take it. And the sheer volume of pipe and gaps in gravel will hold stormwater until it disappears. Also i see lots of trees. They will dry out the ground in summer, and the roots will have formed crevices through the clay. The tests may work better there. The 5m guidance shouldn't apply to a shallow French drain, but distance will avoid your pipe taking road water. Barrels on downpipes also helps to take the first flush of a storm. In winter you can open the tap to a dribble, to empty them slowly before the next storm. All such should be accepted by planner or bco. They might be suspicious of a good percolation figure though. A lagoon or swale is useful but I don't know if the topography allows it. Some this and others I think suggesting you make up some numbers.

Yes. Too many options, no mass production? Sell one make another?

I've just had a plastic box for a temporary supply. Its horrible, wobbly, difficult to shut and open. It was bought by the electrician from an electrics merchant. and was cheap. It will have to do. I'm hoping that any grp ones for the mains will be subject to some minimum standards.

I'm appalled at people telling you to cheat. Are people living in houses they built? What have they missed out or fudged? I'd like to think it is ignorance rather than principle. Let's go back to first principles. The authorities are trying to reduce load on the sewage works and sewers, and to avoid flooding. If all driveways are porous then they are not in the equation. Where does / did the existing roof water go? How much land is there and do you have slopes? I'm confident this can be done. Properly.

You are right. There is no excuse for this lack of info. It would matter a lot if it is tight connecting two fixed end levels. Also, for a long run, the total depth can add up to become unnecessarily deep. Can you put the main runs in a line and still get branches to connect properly at the higher level? Go to your merchant armed with a spirit level and tape.