ProDave

That's a very fat re pointing line. It suggest to me (not a professional) that the whole back corner has moved and been patched up. But more to the point, why is that back corner seemingly not coursed into the side wall? How long have you owned it and have any cracks opened up in the time you have known it? Did you notice it or have a survey when you bought it? The more I look at it, the more wrong it looks. Different brick for a start. Extension or alteration gone wrong?

While I await an answer from Continental, I have found this blending valve that looks right (it is the other way up in their photo) https://www.heatingcontrolsonline.co.uk/underfloor-heating-c-44.html/wet-underfloor-heating-c-44_49.html/underfloor-heating-mixing-valves-c-44_49_58.html/ufh-manifold-mixing-valve.html They say it is is for "older John Guest and Polypipe manifolds" Do you think mine is either of those?

That would worry me. I am 99% sure it was not built like that. So I would want to know what has moved (and been patched up by re pointing) to make it like that now? Have you just bought or about to buy this property? do you have a zoomed out photo?

Operate both rooms with one fan. So when either room is in use an in line fan (after the branch) extracts air from both rooms.

I would say 700mm by 700mm by 1.8M tall for us. Perhaps my plumbing is not as tight as @joe90 Ours pushes into the coombe space of a room with a sloping ceiling so there was no room to put the expansion vessel above it, so in our case it is behind it, accessed from the side.

It's that time of year. My turn to have an UFH fault. This is in our old house, still owned by us and let. The problem is the downstairs UFH. Here is the manifold: Flow and return come in from the left (the red and blue service valves) from an oil fired boiler. The brass 3 port valve at the bottom left with the temperature gauge is the thermostatic blending valve. the adjusting handle is just out of shot of the bottom of the picture. All the electrical controls seem to be working, The UFH controller is calling for heat. The motorised valve (mounted next to the boiler) is opening and is calling for heat from the boiler which is firing. The UFH pump is circulating as it the main system boiler. the manifold actuators are opening and water circulating through the UFH pipes. What is not happening is significant flow from the boiler. the flow pipe into the red service valve is hot to the touch, but everything else on the manifold is cold to the touch and so is the return pipe from the blue service valve. The temperature gauge is reading 20. I am thinking it must be the blending valve is stuck in the "satisfied" position so not allowing heat in from the boiler and just recirculating what it has? does that sound like a plausible failure? If so does anyone recognise that blending valve? the whole system came from Continental in about 2004 so I will fire off an email to them to see if they can supply a new valve but suspect it may be available somewhere else cheaper. But I am seeking a sanity check from the forum before I continue the "fault find by substitution" method.

Electrical power is simply volts multiplied by amps * So in your example, 240V multiplied by 5 amps = 1.200 Watts. * I won't complicate it my including power factor

But isn't it up to the council to say what it is for and how much they need? they could say we "need a strip of land"? If it is statute law how come not all councils impose it and they impose different amounts.?

Are you entering into a voluntary agreement to give them the land for the road widening or is that a compulsory purchase? If a voluntary agreement, I would set a 100% red line, you can have the land as long as there is NO CIL imposed on the building plots. Try to impose CIL and you don't get the land. They are after all getting payment in kind being given the land, so for me that would have to wipe the CIL slate completely clear. I suspect you need a GOOD solicitor to negotiate the transaction, not an accountant.

There are several ways this can work. Sometimes it is the central heating programmer that turns on the UFH and avtivates the motorised valve. Im my last house I had it wired so the central heating programmer energised the UFH control box. Then IF any room was calling for heat, the UFH control box would open the motorised valve and then the feedback switch on it would call for heat from the boiler. In my present setup, the UFH controller sends a heat demand to the ASHP and the ASHP controls the motorised valves. This allows it when it wishes, to stop heating the floor and heat the DHW cylinder instead. (you don't normally do both at once with an ASHP because of the different temperatures) I don't suppose you have any documentation how it is wired? You won't break anything by keeping the valve manually opened, but in my case if I did that, then when the ASHP demanded hot water heating, it would potentially senf 50 degree water to the UFH (but the blending valve would reduce that temperature somewhat)

You can get a new actuator head rather than changing the valve body. But you don't know yet that is the fault. It could be the controls that are telling it to open are not working.

Those are your flow meters. If they were full of nice clean water you would see a "float" that rises and falls to show the flow rate. Now you have opened the motorised valve manually, do you feel warmth in the pipes heading off from the manifold down into the floor?

Try it and see. If that gets the UFH working then that is progress but is not the problem "fixed"

That is a motorised valve. When you turn on the UFH that should be energised to allow the hot water to flow to the manifold. It also has a feedback microswitch that may or may not be used to tell other bits of the controls that it is open. If it is not opening when it should, that can either be because the thing that turns it on is broken, or the motor inside it is broken. Do you have a multimeter and know how to use it.?

Sounds like another sad case of not actually understanding anything. His guide says you need an rcd or rcbo in the consumer unit and he does not have the ability to work out you already have that protection.

"not working" is a large target to aim for. So lets start with some questions: Is there a timer / programmer if so is it "on" Are there any room thermostats? if so are they turned up? If electronic ones and clues like "call for heat" symbols? Look at the UFH manifold. Can you hear the pump running? Do ANY of the pipes feel warm? Are there flow meters if so what do they show? Some types of actuator have a tell tale when open do yours? Any pressure or temperature gauges? If so what do they read?

But that is easy to put right. Cover with a vapour barrier before plasterboarding. The hardest part will be sealing up the cable entries into the back boxes. But in the real world I see hundreds of houses like that with no vapour barrier and no mould problems either.

The disk that's now on the network was a new disk, set up partitioned and formatted on the W10 pc, then plugged into the network. Normal users on the Zoron pc can read and write to it without problem, so I can't understand why sudo can't.

That "worked" in so far as I did not get the permission error, but it was sooooooo sloooooow after about 5 minutes it had written only a few 10's of MB and would take forever. I will try again another time to a USB drive plugged into the laptop rather than a network drive. I thought SUDO had permission to read and write everything?

Okay my problem was a "senior moment" I was trying to write the output file to the same disk. Now when I try the same, but sending the output file to the network drive I get "permission denied" Yet I can read and write to the network drive.

So I now have my Zorin PC working well and all configured as I like it, but as yet not much data on it. I thought this would be a perfect time to take a backup in a fashion that if the machine crashed I could restore to this point, rather than installing an off the shelf zorin install and then configuring it all. So I thought dd if=/dev/sda of=zorin.img would create an image file that I could restore to a clean disk. the disk is a 120GB SSD with about 15GB in use. It soon became clear as the image file just grew and grew that it was trying to image the whole 120GB disk, not just the used bit, so I had to abort that. How else can I take a copy of just the used disk, that I can restore to a blank disk and everything will work?

I did an EICR on a rental property. I had no trouble accessing the consumer unit. A week later I went back to do some repairs and found this: Sorry about the poor picture. In the intervening time the plumber had been and changed the boiler and installed 2 new expansion vessels. the right hand one completely blocking any possibility of getting the cover off the CU

I bought the Telford one with the high capacity heat pump input coil. It is basically a larger input coil than standard tanks (goes right from the top to the bottom of the tank) and is corrugated to increase the surface area.

If the stuff is fairly soft have you tried just ordiany coach bolts or concrete screws to just cut their own thread into the floor?

Yes. I have also deleted cookies (another itv suggestion) and it still does not work. I might have to load a different browser, e.g. chromium just to see if I can get itv hub to work with it.