ProDave

I can't help with up to date figures but I too am about to seek some prices for Rationel for our sun room windows. Last time, when we bought the windows for the main part of the house, Rationel won on price hands down compared to any of the other quality window suppliers that bothered to quote.

That is going to be a complicated extension, incorporating support for bedroom 5 that sits on the existing side wall of the garage. The planners may not like it extending further forward. If it's a recent development you may need covenant permission that might not be forthcoming. You will need to join it to the neighbours wall with their permission, or alternatively build your own wall very close to theirs with all the complications that entails.

Makes sense now. I would reduce the width to match the garage, but 12M is not a lot to turn in. I would instead make a hammerhead turning space going alongside the left side of the house straight in front of where the driveway comes up, so to exit you reverse from in front of the garage into the turning space alongside the left of the house, then drive out forwards.

I think perhaps a better drawing is needed as I am still trying to figure out how you get a car into the garage as your tarmac appears to approach the side of it?

Hi and welcome. Before you decide on construction methods, research "decrement delay" There is more to insulation than just the U values and the performance of the "same" walls with PIR / PUR insulation (like you get in most SIP panels) and the "same" wall in say a timber frame using mineral wool or wood fibre insulation. Take a look at this thread recently Here he posted an analysis of 2 roof constructions that both had the same U value, but look how much quicker heat passes through the PUR one compared to the mineral wool / wood fibre one.

Yes the long thermal lag is a big benefit of this type of insulation, it is not all about the U value. I can confirm my house neither heats up or cools down quickly, as the prediction forecasts (I had exactly the same analysis done at the design stage)

You need to reduce the moisture in the air. Either by changing your lifestyle or buy a dehumidifier. In both cases it is finding a cold surface to condense on. What is the age and type of property? It ideally needs better insulation, but certainly better heating and ventilation.

In Scotland it is clearer, any part of the tank must be 5M from a building.

in an HMO that would just guarantee a lot of "the shower is broken" phone calls.

I would second that, as long as inside the black line meets the BR distance from the building.

Yes that's the PME earth terminal but don't use it until you connect to the house.

No I would not put two electric showers in an HMO where you don't know or have control of the other users, unless you have 3 phase, then I would be happy with 3 showers. Our sailing club gets away with 5 showers in use at the same time as well as the kettles etc from a 3 phase supply.

So no different to the load on my walls that are fine with the posi joist ends in compression. As a say, many ways to skin a cat.

It is, JUST as long as you have a 21kVA / 100A supply. And you are careful what else you are using at the time. Oh and the showers are not too large, say 8kW, perhaps 9. We officially here only have a 12kVA supply so it would not be possible.

There is still nothing stopping you having the tank under agricultural land, and if that ever gets sold separately it would be sold with a wayleave to allow access to maintain, repair or replace the tank.

It would be interesting to know just what is above that beam.

Mine is built to 2013 Scottish regs and 0.14 passes, I have not looked up any recent changes.

There are multiple ways of designing a structure to do the same thing. Our posi joists are made with a solid timber section between the top and bottom chords at the end to they do sit on top of the wall and do take a compressive load on the end. but I think we have established in this instance the glulam is in compression, not being used as a beam as such, so subject to confirming with the engineer just for comfort there should be no issue drilling it.

You don't have to have the tank under "curtailage" there is nothing wrong with having the tank and the soakaway under agricultural land.

Yes you ventilate the space between the roof and the tiles with eaves vents and a dry ridge system that incorporates vents. But there is no need to vent ANY of the internal space. So if you are not using it for room in roof or part room in roof, you have a dry warm draught free loft space, and it is easy to detail the air tightness around the perimiter of the roof and no worry about light fittings, loft hatch etc upsetting your air tightness.

So if you own all the field outlined in blue, and the tanker can use your track, then just down the slope a bit from the barn anywhere, as long as the tank is within 30M of the track. So you have lots of options, the higher up the slope the better as that gives you more options for the soakaway I see no need for the pipe to pass under your track at all.

But where is it going to drain to FROM the tank? Land soakaway? Watercourse? Are you assuming the tanker must remain on the road so you need to be within 30M of the road? Or will your track be capable of taking the weight ans size of the tanker?

The point of a warm roof is you DON'T need to ventilate it. Mine, from outside to in is: Tiles Battens counter battens Breather membrane 100mm wood fibre board over rafters 200mm Frametherm 35 between rafters 11mm OSB Air tight membrane 25mm battens for service void Plasterboard. On some sloping ceilings where there were no cables I omitted the service void to give slightly more headroom (bathrooms) U value about 0.14

On the plus side he did say the tank would be "Down the slope" so it may not be bad after all. Agreed some plans would help. But moving the tank will also affect where it is going to drain to, which might be a much bigger problem. Who has "brought it to your attention"? Is is building control refusing it's original position? Try asking one of the tanker companies to come and have a look and make a statement that they have no problem emptying it at it's original location?

It it is just for lighting, 1.5mm SWA is all you need.