ProDave

Seriously though, turning the oil heating off and using electric resistance heating WILL be more expensive. Unless your oil tank is running on vapour and you are baulking at paying current prices to refill it? I won't mention my low heating bills (oh I just did)

I might have said this before. Knock down and rebuild (i'll get my coat)

Now we know it's 2 walls out and a flat roof from the post above, then fitting it lower might mean it's too low for the door. It needs to be thought about, and at least sketched with door height, beam height, roof height and roof construction.

Doing something that needs a steel beam without detailed plans or a tape measure seems a recipe for failure? At least provide some photos and a better description.

Yes i insulated mine. A good place to use up offcuts of insulation. The hardest one to do was the posi joist that ran parallel to the wall, many a skinned knuckle threading bits of insulation through the surprisingly sharp metal webs.

A total power cut is one such event. A previous rental property had an outside oil combi boiler so by nature it has raw mains water inside it. The boilers frost stat will take care of things in normal times but I always worried about a several days long power cut in the middle of a cold winter spell. I guess running a hot tap frequently would purge the near freezing water out to be replaced with mains temperature water, or even leaving a hot tap on a slow dribble to keep a constant flow.

Explain to me how an antifreeze valve works? Will it shut off the water AND drain down the outside unit completely, and what about re filling and bleeding when it warms up? Antifreeze / inhibitor is not expensive do it properly. Our LG ASHP will automatically turn on the circulating pump when the water temperature gets low to move the slug of cold water into the house. It will do this even when the unit is registering a fault code that otherwise stops it operating. So it would need a major power failure to stop that "self protect" function from working. Another thought about the antifreeze valve, that would have to be in some way linked to disabling the ASHP totally so it does not try and do it's turn on the circulating pump thing.

See how thick the roof build up is? you get a good idea of that by measuring the depth of the recess that the velux windows are fitted into. My guess would be very thin, indicating a lack of insulation barely meeting building regs. If you are building well and well insulated the recess for the roof windows will be a lot deeper because the insulation is so much thicker. My top tip is such a roof is make it a warm roof with insulation on top of the rafters before membrane, battens and tiles, and then full fill insulation between rafters. That will make a well insulated noise free roof and will be easy to detail air tightness.

Was this an official room in the roof or a DIY conversion of a loft? Out house is room in roof with the same level of insulation applied to the loft rooms as the normal rooms and they are just as quiet. A velux window will give rain noise in a heavy shower, that is all.

Our plot has no planning. So I made a formal offer to buy the plot subject to planning being granted. The offer was accepted and there was an 8 week wait while I waited for planning in principle to be granted and the purchase proceeded. Land might be cheaper in NI but is it really cheaper to build there? Perhaps just moving to a cheaper bit of Scotland might be easier?

January reading was due. Submitted. Then they asked for a photo of the generation meter as they had not been for 2 years. submitted and acknowledged. Nearly 3 months later and no payment. I can;t complain just yet as their contract states they will pay "within a quarter" That will be up soon (and the next reading due) then I WILL be complaining.

My finding is definitely the room with spreader plates heats the room less well. So for a given UFH flow temperature, less heat goes into the room. So that must mean, if I cared to measure it, the return temperature from that loop would be higher than from the rooms with the pug mix, so less energy has gone into that room. Pug mix is cheap and easy, you just need to make sure you size the joists for the extra dead load they have to support.

Hi and welcome. The planners down't care about cruck frames or straw bales, they just care what it looks like. If the exterior meets their expectations, no reason why not. Building control may be a little more interested in the details.

But that in room display is really just a toy, it is not the official meter (though some people think it is) Talking of SSE, I have not yet received my FIT payment for the meter reading sent in January, and looking at other forums neither have a lot of other people. Something about being taken over by ovo?

No data, but I can confirm our main floor downstairs, UFH in a pug mix is better at heating the rooms than the utility room that has UFH pipes and spreader plate, all running at the same temperature.

And related to that, just how long can the energy companies continue selling to consumers at a loss thanks to the cap? How long before none are left or we are back to one nationalised CEGB?

A TV should not need an instruction book. If it is so badly designed that it is not possible to use it without reading the manual it is a fail. "If all else fails, rtfm"

I am sure in some places there is a need for a 21st century "slum clearance" program to rebuild these old houses that are impossible to upgrade properly. But who pays? The EPC system was introduced expecting people to demand an A+++ house just like they will only bay an A+++ washing machine, but it has been largely ignored. I am still of the view that houses with a poor EPC should be worth less than those with a good EPC, to reflect the high running costs or cost of work needed to upgrade them. I saw a flat near here advertised with an EPC G07 I think that is the worst I have ever seen.

"Electrifying" does not solve the problem if the extra electricity needed comes from imported gas. It would in fact make the problem worse. There is no quick fix for decades of continuing to build lousy houses and decades of a dud energy policy.

He is demanding payment in Roubles not Euro's so it could get "interesting"

I (and several others) concluded a while back that if you have treated mains water and an unvented HW tank, there is no need for a legionairs cycle, so turn that function off, and connect the PV diverter directly to the immersion heater on it's own circuit and not via the ASHP. That is what i have.

Unless you have gone to a fixed tariff there is nothing you can do. It depends a lot I expect on what happens in the eastern block between now and then. I would be very surprised if it goes down.

It seems counter intuitive but try swapping the meter input and output and see if that reads properly.

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When using that as a GENERATION meter, the "input" from the inverter goes to the left hand 2 terminals and the right 2 terminals connect to your consumer unit. We really need that photo is is not clear from your description how it is wired.