ProDave

Most of that is not the ASHP but how the system is put together. I am just back from a week with a relative with a gas boiler and radiators. It has to be the worst set up install I have seen. (or perhaps I am just used to low temp UFH?) Her heating comes on for an hour in the morning, and hour at lunch time and a couple of hours in the evening. When it is on, the radiators run far too hot to touch, to the point you could easily burn yourself I think. You feel the hot air rising from them almost like a fan heater. So if you are close to the radiator you feel too hot, the other side of the room, not so. It is never on long enough to properly heat the fabric of the house, so when it goes off the house cools down quite quickly. The occupant just puts a cardigan on when it gets cold in the off periods. She only has it on for short periods because she is worried about cost. If the temperature was turned down a LOT the radiators would be warm, not scalding hot, and left on longer the house would probably be more comfortable for no extra cost. But so many people accept this scalding, too hot then too cold cycle as "normal" and never question it.

I have 28mm formers for my Hilmor bender. It was originally my dad's. I also have the imperial sized formers for it. I don't have the electrical conduit formers though it is the same bender as electricians use so they are available.

I am often asked should I swap from a gas boiler to an ASHP. I ask what are your expectations and reasons for doing so? If they just want to save money my usual reply is don't bother.

Good idea, assuming the data centre owner pays the electricity it uses (so has it's own supply and meter?) and the host just gets the free "waste" heat.

With a pipe bender I could do both 45 degrees as two bends in one length of pipe. No joints.

Top immersion heaters are the work of the devil. If yours has an old style thermostat without the new safety cutout trip then they work apart from eratic water temperature. But when I was working I had no end of trouble with thermostat failure, and you can now only buy thermostats with the safety cut out, and they were notorious for spurious tripping when top mounted. I would 100% replace the cylinder with a new one with side entry immersion heater.

I am not sad to see the end of this silly scheme, because it has failed to deliver low prices to the consumer and instead just let the contractors trouser most of the grant and still charge the customer a lot to fit a heat pump.

Get a plasterer to skim that wall and paint it. If the cracks come back it is still moving. If not, the poor joining of dissimilar materials is hidden. Better still might be dot and dab plasterboard. Less chance of the cracks showing through. If the cracks are not showing on the other side of the wall then it is either not moving any more, or it has been recently filled and painted to hide it.

Unless this property is special or particularly cheap, I would look for a different one to buy. Why take on such an unknown and possibly expensive risk unless it was cheap? A bit more context where this garage is in relation to the rest of the house might help? Is this the outer wall of an adjoined garage? The wall between the garage and the rest of the house etc? The joists suggest it might be an extension built above an existing attached garage and perhaps the foundations were inadequate etc.

Yes that's what was on a previous static caravan (our first build) and once connected to our mains water, one by one they started bursting. No doubt they were old but it would not encourage me to use that type anywhere myself.

Foam filled, white, 2.5M wide 2.7M high

I bought mine from Rollerdor on ebay. Made to my size and delivered for about £500 Mine fits to the inside face of the opening not "in" the opening and is sized for that. It came with the door rolled onto the roller mechanism and the side rails separately. It was easy to fit but a 2 man job to lift the roller assembly into place. As well as electric opening with 2 remote controls, it can be opened manually with a handle from inside if needed.

That looks awfully like the cheap and nasty plastic fittings used on a lot of static caravans. Not seen it used in a domestic setting. What is the inside and outside diameters of the pipe?

No 1. MOVE the HW cylinder to a much more central position. NOW is the chance to do that. Under the stairs would be about as central as it gets in that plan. No 2, don't route pipes around the edge of rooms, take the most direct straight route possible.

If you really intend this to be a temporary fixture then you would be as well to just connect a suitable 3 pole socket to plug it into, then when it comes to time to sell it on, you just have to unplug it, no need to get anyone back yo disconnect it.

This thread sums up the dire situation with providing decent broadband to any rural community. We were with By on a lousy slow ADSL connection a few years ago and it looked like nothing at all was happening to provide a decent connection. We knew fibre cables passed the end of our road, so at least we thought we might get FTTC with just the copper for the last bit, but that didn't happen. Then a local private company stepped up. We now have decent speed broadband 100Mbps up and down. If you get a fault, you are phoning a local company, almost always the same person, no silly switchboard to frustrate you, and when they fix the fault they call you back and tell you what it was. I wish there were more of these local companies. This is delivered by point to point bespoke radio link. Only now, 5 years or more behind when it was wanted have we had a company digging up our road laying fibre to each property. I son't be taking them up on their offer. Their fibre is buried in shallow bare trenches under the road verge and nowhere near deep enough as far as I could tell where it crosses the road. First utility that needs to access their own services will likely cut the poorly laid fibres.

If it's the bathroom door catching on the floor the first thing I would do is put a spirit level on the floor make sure nothing has moved.

Is this an internal or external door? Post some pictures including the whole door and hinge detail. These are not hinges unique to Danwood, just the ones they chose to use.

I gave up with wholesalers a long time ago. The final straw was when I went to get a load of lights for a job, they didn't have enough and could only supply half what I needed straight away. I went next door to Toolstation where they had the whole lot and for less than the wholesaler would have fleeced me for half of them. So it was always been Screwfix, Toolstation, TLC (online) CPC (on line) for me.

It is common here to get a week or 2 at -10 in a winter and we have had no issues with that temperature bothering the MVHR

Just jack up both ends more, yes it will bend the chassis back to being more straight. Ideally you want all the supports to be taking their share of the weight. At the moment it sounds like the centre / axle jacks are taking most of the weight and the end ones are just stopping it tipping up when you all walk to the same end.

I have a different unit but the operation is similar, the bypass flap only diverts one of the flows away from the heat exchanger. But this brings the discussion to looking closely at that mechanism. If the bypass flap is not closing properly when not in bypass mode, it could perhaps be the route of the "leak"?

It probably came from a holiday site where they expect a relatively regular turnover of 'vans and they plug the mains into a socket like touring caravans do. Just ignore it for now. Most likely your electrician will connect the cable direct to the consumer unit in the 'van but he could also just fit a matching socket and just plug that plug into it.

I have an Enthalpy mvhr unit. It was more a case that one was available at the right time at the right price than any technical reason for choosing it. One advantage, not mentioned yet is an Enthalpy mvhr unit does not need a condensate drain, so installation is slightly easier.

Did they check the unit was actually connected correctly? When I installed my unit I found the terms used to describe the ports confusing. Could it be something like the supply vents supplying air to the rooms is mistakenly connected to the exhaust air port that should be exiting the house? I would have expected Brink to have checked this on their visit but perhaps they "assumed" it must be connected correctly?