ProDave

Perhaps they screwed up a server backup or restore?

I am only just getting the address does not exist, which is not the browser telling me it cannot find the address, but rather a bit of html that displays that message, so the browser is finding something. Website hacked?

My usual bookmark gets me "Address does not exist.

I just take the view that the supply head normally says "100A" being the rating of the fuse carrier. It is unusual to have a label to say what actual fuse is in there and of course it is sealed. So I have no qualms fitting an 80A fuse after it. Lets be honest if something bad has happened to blow your 80A fuse it does not really matter if the DNO's fuse has gone as well, they will come and replace it and re seal. You are not going to overload anything or make a dangerous situation.

That's my view. the reason for your fuse, is the supplier says you can only rely on their fuse if the CU is within 3 metres of the supply head. So you fit your own fuse. Lets be honest, if your cable is designed and installed properly, it is not going to suffer damage that would blow the fuse.

I would just go with the 80A switch fuse. How do you know it's an 80A fuse in the supply head you should not be pulling it to look?

I would buy Kwikstage, Cuplock or a similar "system" can make anything from a single tower to full house very easy, much easier that traditional scaffold.

It's a handy "windsock" when on the firth on our boat.

I take it when the neighbour refused to share the cost of removing the stump, you just removed the bit on your side?

The alternative as at least one regular member does with a willis heater, is calculate the required heat input based on weather forecast, and adjust the turn on time to give the required amount of heat (turn off time remains when the off peak rate finishes)

"Beds in sheds"

That's fire alarm cable. Us the "earth/screen" core as 0V and interference should not be an issue. So why did the electrician tell you he was using a 4 core cable and then fitted a 2 core & earth?

Find a stove you like then look at the manufacturers instructions to see the diameter of the inlet pipe. If it is marginally larger than what you have, ask them if it will be sufficient.

Try approaching plumbers and electricians not "heat pump specialists" you will comfortably buy a heat pump for £4K so say £6K installed. I am in the Highlands. You don't get much colder winters in the UK than here and mine just works. Maintenance is a check over that you can do yourself and they only actually need "work" if they break down. What is your actual problem? You have to keep adjusting the temperature so is the problem the house overheats? i.e. lack of basic controls like room thermostats? Turning down the boiler temperature won't make it more efficient with a resistance heater like it will with an ASHP.

How the other half live. I have just counted up the total here, 19, that's all hot, all cold, all toilets, and the outside taps.

What does this wall back onto? Can you see the outside? Or is this the outside I am looking at?

That looks to me like the bad patch has been infilled, different brick and coursing. Was there a window before? Is the mortar wet? or dry and crumbling?

Good job it was only the sink.

Just about. The air intake duct on my 5kW stove is 80mm diameter.

Weather compensation on a resistance heating boiler is not going to make any differnce. As it is only a 6kW boiler and it presumably has enough output to heat the house, I would be looking at replacing that with a similar sized air source heat pump. That will roughly cut your heating bill to 1/3 and in principle should be an easy swap. Then with an ASHP weather compensation might make sense which most of them offer as standard.

That's why you need to speak to them, to make sure they are doing what the schedule says not making it up. Express your concern that until it is shuttered or the retaining wall built, it is very vunerable in it's present state.

So likely the foundations for the retaining wall poured on Thursday then they will build the wall. Once that is up the danger is over for your garden.

What does the planning permission say? Are they building an extension right to the fence?

Why have they dug so close to your fence there, where further back the excavation is further from the fence? What will fall into their garden if it collapses? a bit of lawn? or your house? Even a gale at the moment would topple your fence. I would go round and speak to the neighbour immediately, or if the workmen are there speak to them and make your concerns known. What do the plans show here? How do you know building control has not been approved yet?

I would say the relationship is already soured. I would have been livid at an £11K charge for being 1 month late. Is there a similar clause that allows you to charge similar if they are late? no I did not think so. I would be calling a serious meeting, telling them it is their issue as you contracted them to do the package, tell them the best technical solution is wider battens so the cladding lines up with the outside of the base blockwork and that will require deeper window cills which they will pay for.