ProDave

That's looking better. So he opted for a new CU rather than reconfigure what was there? Neat job. Do i take it all the circuits so far have tested okay or has he found any faults? Look forward to the finished photos.

Normal back box, BUT flush switches need a bit more depth inside the back box. So what do you have ? If you have the slim 16mm light switch boxes (I would never fit them) you might well struggle for enough room. 25mm or even 35mm deep boxes and there should be no problem.

Keep us posted. So £3000 for all the parts. It would be interesting to get a feel for how many hours it takes you to install it all when you do it.

I am a warm roof champion. A good compromise is hybrid, some insulation over the top before the deck and covering, and insulation between the rafters as well. Upgrade the roof insulation as much as you can now while you are doing it, the walls can be done later e.g next time you re fit the kitchen.

Did you not check and agree the drawings before going ahead?

For me, the house would have to be special, very special, or cheap, to take on the risk and cost. As it looks to be an ordinary Victorian terrace, I would keep on looking.

Might also be possible to see by taking off some of the bay window roof tiles. Probably no under felt behind those.

I am not so sure. I would say failed or failing lintel above the bay window. The lintel will be bridging the brickwork, just below downstairs ceiling level and probably the bedroom joists are spanning front to back on that lintel. You could get a surveyor to look at it and give an opinion, but nobody will tell for sure without exposing some of the structure and a surveyor won't do that.

Just so long as you keep an old head for the purpose.........

It would be a leap of faith too far for me but you might have guessed I am >50 years old.

The fact your "electrician" could not figure that out shows his lack of competence. So progress at last. Quite probably all you have to solve now is getting a proper feed to the bottom CU without that over crowded mess in the main switch, allocating the circuits properly and testing them properly as you go, and getting some form of RCD protection to the bottom board.

It is usually number of "bedrooms" that dictate the number of parking spaces needed. Large study in addition to the two bedrooms seems a way to avoid an extra parking space required. If you are not keen on an upstairs, but want lots of storage, consider making the loft as an open volume either with a ridge beam or at least attic trusses, and encompass it within the insulated area preferably with a warm roof construction. Then you will have a large storage space that also leaves the option to develop the upstairs into habitable rooms later of if you want to. Even think where you could incorporate a staircase to do that in the future, but leave it as a good quality loft ladder to start with. A couple of roof windows would make it more of a useful space.

Cartridge fuse holder? Not sure you can get more than 32A though? Type C or D MCB?

Yes trying to get away from that abomination. When the top CU main switch is put back where it should be there will just be one L and N feed in to the top of it from the SWA feed. The N link down to the bottom CU will connect to the very top right high integrity N busbar. The L link down to the bottom CU will be fed from the MCB right next to the main switch. The input to the bottom of that MCB will be jumpered to the main switch with the short 2 section busbar. the original L cable coming out of it, which was supplied with the CU and splits in two to feed the two RCD's will also go into the bottom left terminal of the main switch with that short busbar.

Not quite what you want. If you set up your top CU as that picture I copied from the linked website, you just need an additional 2 prong bit of busbar A bit of this You could buy a length and cut it down, but any electircian worth his salt will have odd bits of it lurking somwhere.

Resurrecting this old thread. I have encountered an issue. Above i describe the 433MHz remote control switch for my additional dump heater. Well it upsets the operation of my car key entry / imobiliser system. This has been a minor issue for a long time, but when the dump heater is on it just desensitised the receiver on the car, and I had worked out where on the car the receiver was so you just held the key fob close to that point. Well now I have a new car, and this afternoon when the dump heater was on, the car would not unlock and I could not find a sweet spot where the key fob would work. So I now have to find a solution to a problem I have been ignoring. Ultimately I might look for an alternative radio control transmitter / receiver pair, either one that does not leave the tx energised all the time, or one that does not use 433MHz. To find an immediate work around I am going to implement an extra switch input that will disable that extra radio control heater and do so for a timed period say 10 minutes to give me time to go and get in the car and drive away.

L jumper Live Jumper. This page explains it well https://www.consumerunitworld.co.uk/what-is-a-high-integrity-consumer-unit-and-how-to-populate-it-331-c.asp You already have the high integrity neutral configuration with the 3 neutral bars. you just need to space it out as shown on that page. The "High integrity" circuit (just one in this case) will be a single MCB right next to the main switch, so you need just a 2 prong busbar to link the L out of the main switch to this single MCB. That will be the one that feeds to the bottom CU. Then the 2 RCD's each have a multi prong busbar feeding their MCB's. The bottom CU could have an RCD after it's main switch (or even instead of) or a row or rcbo's. Picture from that linked site:

I would try and reconfigure it as a "high integrity" board so the one MCB feeding the bottom board does not have RCD protection, that would be provided in the bottom board. It's nearly there with the 3 neutral bars, you would need one extra L jumper to do that, I keep a collection of spare CU bits that would probably yield something.

This is one of the details I am going to have to work on when I start assembling it. It is going to be a "corner door" to the pantry, by that I mean the pantry is a small rectangular room and the bifold door will be at 45 degrees cutting off that corner of the rectangle. If it slides on some form of sliding gear, the open door will end up perpendicular to the track. I would like the open door to fold right back against the wall. I can't see that happening with the supplied track and gear. So was yours free swinging? i.e the far end not constrained by a track? How did you find it?

There will be some challenges that is for sure.

Don't have a cold loft. Continue the insulation and air tight layer up the roof to the apex and down again. So much easier to detail and you have a warm loft.

I will have to wait and see what running gear comes with it and either use it as is, or adapt it.

good point. In the case of all the other doors XL Joinery approved the use of Osmo door oil, so perhaps that's a "good" one as in does not attack the adhesive?

I just expected hinges at the hinge end. Back in the day, when they were in fashion, I made numerous sets of bifold doors with louvre doors (remember them) with just ordinary hinges at both the hinge end and between the doors, and the outer end of the folding one had a "pin" on it that ran in a guide. I will of course study it carefully before detailing the framing.

I would be interested to see a diagram explaining why such a big gap at the hinge end? I don't see why it should be any different to the hinge end of a normal door.