Tom

It clearly is, see my picture above! Depends on what residual webbing is left between the EPS faces when the blocks are cut, and what external bracing you add Agree!

We had to use a large steel for a similar span. Our builder cut the Nudura block exactly level with the bottom of the steel, then the concrete was poured and screeded to this (with some bolts cast in too for attaching the steel. The block was then reinstated around the steel for the second pour. Pic is of the steel being lifted in to place but you can see the cut Nudura on the right

Thanks all. Have filled it all in

Cripes, just seen this thread- we had these very sliding doors fitted a few months ago. No water has been blown in, yet. Give it time...

Hi all - I've chased these pipes into a wall which is then going to be tiled, should I fill in around the pipes with mortar? The pipes have been wrapped in duct tape. Would the tiles have a hollow sound if I leave it as is? Many thanks!

Just saw your post Gus! Many thanks, I'll have a read and see where I went wrong...

Thanks all, I think any adhesive - butyl tape or stixall etc - just wouldn't hold it down. Foam fillers would have worked, but only if I'd left the led flat I guess. Anyway, in the end I opted for some concrete blocks to hold down the valleys each side as I tapped down the corrugation with some wood and a lump hammer. Perhaps not 100% but a definite improvement

The stove on the top and nowt on the sides! The floor is concrete. BR needs 225mm in front and 150mm to the sides IIRC which obviously must not be flammable (which the floor wont be!) but also serves as a demarcation so furniture etc cant get too close - so we might just put down some tiles to satisfy them for sign off and then remove after. Exactly this. Looks good when smoothe but has to be 100%. Our floor is going to be polished, so I think the contrast with the rough concrete monolith will look good.

Timber removed

Wood former around the outside and fill with concrete between this and the blocks

Here's what I did in the end. Lightweight block "core"

For a while I've felt the need to improve the dressing of the lead flashing below one of our roof lights. Trouble is, every time I knock the lead in to one of the corrugations, it pops out of the two either side. Any tips? I could put some weight (half a concrete block?) on the lead either side while I tap one of the corrugations in? Apply some heat? Thanks all

"it helps prevent heat gain by reflecting hot air away from your walls and back into the environment" - Who writes this cr@p??!

Usually because they blame their children's breathing problems on the mould - not their twenty Rothman's/day

Like the idea of a PIR former 👍

good shout, was going to use the SDS drill but multi tool sounds better

I get what you're saying but we wanted it raised up a bit to form a bit more of a room-divider too.

Hi all - we are having our stove fitted in a few weeks so I need to think about siting it. Our floor is polished concrete and we plan to have the stove up on a concrete plinth. This is the stove we have: https://www.lacunza.net/ad-en/freestanding-stoves/verona-1000 - and I want to cast a similar sort of concrete base for it to sit on. There is a ducted air feed coming up underneath it, so the base will need to be hollow. My idea is to make a base with concrete blocks that is a few inches too narrow (bedded on mortar), then make a concrete former around the blocks that is a few inches longer/wider, then pour concrete between the former and the blocks. Would this work do you think? Any better ideas? Really can't think how best to do it, but could have some trial runs outside over the weekend. Thanks all

Roger that, thanks mate. Will swap out for a lower rated fuse.

^^ this, pipes set at the bottom of a 200mm concrete slab

I'm just going through this process now actually. My heat loss came out at very similar to yours, but the calculations that various ashp suppliers came back with was anything from 5kW ro 15kW. Anyway, quotes for an ashp in the 8-9kW range came in at about £5.5k (after the 7.5k grant taken off). Seems like a nice little earner for a few days work... I questioned the EDF salesman why I would have to pay £1.5k for "design" and he just came up with a load of sales bollocks. Anyway, I've settled on a local-ish firm who will fit an 8.5kW ecodan for £2700 net.

Ah yes, litre/min was what I meant. Think you'd get more heat transfer by convection at 1.5litre/hr

Still only 1-1.5L/hr in each of the 11 loops though. Should it be more than that? Boiler set at 50deg, mixer vallve set at 35deg, temp in top manifold hovering around 20-25deg and return about 15deg

Cheers mate, took the plung and did just that. Got the Grundfos pump set at "Constant Pressure 3 - Max". Sounded like a jacuzzi in there for a long time but now settled down, think the auto air vent has done it's thing.