MikeGrahamT21

https://voltaconsolar.com/batteries/lithium-ion/lithium-battery-100ah-5120wh-48v.html Thoughts? 5.12kWh @ 90% DoD with 5 year warranty for £1270 inc VAT? Seems quite cheap. Uses Pylontech Cells. Compatible with Sofar ME3000SP which can be picked up second hand for not much money on ebay. Getting very tempting!

So applied for planning last year, but wasn't ready to build til this year at earliest, and then the lack of builders put that to bed. I'm hoping to get going next year, but if for whatever reason that doesn't happen, that gives me a year left until i need to pay the council some more ££ which i'd rather not do if I can help it. There is some timber cladding which was part of the planning permission, and I'm wondering if doing a section of that which can be completed would constitute as build commencement? Otherwise what else can I do? Dig a hole which would form part of the foundations? All ideas welcome! Hoping this doesn't become an issue in reality tho

Yeah seconded, definitely supply. The slightly cooler air will then drop down into the room from the vaulted space, and will give positive pressure, meaning, as nick has said, the smells from cooking would be pushed away from the area.

Ignore the question about the timer ?‍♂️ just dawned on me it’s a totally separate function and just like a normal timer. Was hoping when the humidity triggered I may be able to adjust how long it stays on for but no such luck. having got no soldering iron I recrimped all of the connections again last night as best as I could and so far so good, so it must have been a loose connection. cheers for the help

I really should buy another soldering iron, threw the old one out as it was crap, just annoying it’s worked for a year and then all of a sudden it’s decided against it

Ok that makes sense, and if the circuit was open it would be infinite capacitance anyway so wouldn’t make a difference, loose cables would also increase this if I remember right? any ideas what they are on about for the timer?

So having been in about a year, for some reason the humidity sensor which is a separate box 230v with a relay in it has decided to start clicking on an off like mad. When I first put it in I cut the sensor wires and extended them so that the sensor itself could be located inside the ducting and some of these had come loose (silly spade terminals). Re crimped the loose ones but not convinced they were all spot on, so for now I’ve taken it all out. when it was fully connected even me touching just one of the terminals caused it to boost, but now with the sensor disconnected this doesn’t happen, not sure if that’s a clue? If I put the sensor wires to the terminals it seems to work as normal, perhaps I just need to recrimp everything. the other thing I wanted to get running was the timer function, I didn’t connect it originally as the manual said something about don’t use timer mode on the hr 200 (my MVHR) but now I think that means there is perhaps a timer mode on the MVHR itself, which would make sense as it’s advertised but can’t find anything about it anywhere, must be one of the many mystery jumpers or dip switches. The wiring diagram looks very confusing though? Almost like a short circuit which obviously isn’t right, and a bulb and a switch. Can anyone make head or tails of this? it’s just the right hand side portion for my unit. thanks for any insights cheers Mike

I've just had a load delivered from Wickes, no problems at all. These are Knauf ones tho, not BG. I've got C studs and tracks

If its in the Building Regs, then it must be adhered to as far as I can say. I wouldn't risk it for something so minor really.

http://www.tracpipe.co.uk/uploads/downloads/uk_di_guide.pdf Everything suggests the plumber is correct as you would expect. States it cannot be installed below a structural element, and a floor classes as that. There is a section on ducting, and it states the ducting must be ventilated, but I think this is more for high rise. Take a look at page 66 also, and maybe ring their technical line? Seems to be another product which may be suitable.

Timber could be an issue too if we start using it en-masse and have to grow it really quickly. A forest planted from new takes around 30 years to become carbon neutral, so before it starts actually taking anything out the atmosphere.

Main floor practically done, just two tiny boards to put down but I’ve ran out of screws ? also taken the window board off ready to repair the wall, just need to stick a bit of wood to support the window from the outside whilst I do it. This window is getting replaced when the extension gets built with a flat window. more importantly I’ve got the TV hooked back up!

Sleeping definitely isn't a problem, thats my respite, and i sleep an awful lot these days, the bed is definitely my most comfortable place. I haven't even thought about it to be honest, but not a bad idea at all, will see who is in the local area

Totally agree with this, and i think that goes even further than just the building trade, think electric cars, all those batteries! No consideration is given to end of life for products, its all about making a quick profit and moving on. For me i think a lot will change in the coming years with regards to plastic based chemicals, I was reading this article the other day... https://www.theguardian.com/society/2021/aug/31/pfas-toxic-forever-chemicals-air-breathing Sounds like the manufacturers witheld information to make the chemicals look fine, when in actual fact they aren't, and now cover alsorts in the modern home. Another thing we fail to understand is how chemicals interact with each other, and this also goes into the wider world, farming etc, the chemicals get tested in isolation, but never together which is how they are used in the real world.

lol, i wish i could blame playing squash, at least it would be a good reason for it. I feel like theres something not quite right around my neck, or maybe more the top of my back, difficult to describe really. With any luck the hospital may do some scans. Will give a few things a try out and see what difference it makes, thanks for the suggestion

Thanks mate, its been a proper struggle but i'll be damned if its going to stop me getting this bungalow to where i wanted it to be all those years ago when i first learnt about passive house (not that it will be a passive house, but you know). Can't wait til its all done, sit down on the sofa with a decent film on ?

Had an hour or two after work doing a bit more today, up to the cutting stage next so will leave that for tomorrow afternoon while I’m off work.

Thanks, hope all goes well for you too. Really interesting that you say about the wobbles, as I have got increasingly unsteady on my feet/legs these days, forever wobbling and even fell for the first time ever earlier this year and smash my head on concrete. I guess i'll find out at some point. Sick of waking up in the night with completely dead arms even if im not laid on them, another symptom of whatever is going on.

I'll give it a clean out before it gets fired up again ? 13 years old and still going strong that thing, just with 2 new capcitors soldered in 4 years ago. I've had the dust sheet over it while i've been making mega mess

Oh just to mention also, just in case you think im losing my marbles (which is probably 75% true anyway!), the radiator pipes are in the right place, i was going to move the radiator to where its hung at the moment, but changed my mind, and decided to leave it on the wall more for storage as its full of water to prevent it rusting, so it will be moving when i've replastered the wall under the window.

Thanks, i'm currently in the queue waiting for a Neurology appointment at the moment, been on with it all since January, and not really any further aside from a physio telling me that i have a problem somewhere in my nervous system. Don't blame you for wanting a break, sometimes it gets a bit much, i'm dreading all the appointments to be honest!

I think technically speaking, building control do require a boost switch, so you may have little choice, and I may well have to put one in just to say its there, but from what ive experienced, its just not required.

No mines a vortice, with the optional humidistat, i've located the sensor in the extract ducting near the MVHR itself. It catches kitchen and bathroom humidity increase very well.

Having not had the best of years health wise this year, which has unfortunately made the decision for me that someone else will have to build the side extension, i thought i'd get a bit more work done, but rather than the norm of a room taking me 3 days tops, i've spent weeks on this one, slowly picking it apart and now putting it back together (admittedly it is the biggest area of the bungalow). This is the last room which needed everything out, so I can finally say goodbye to woodwormed timbers (and this one didn't disappoint). This one was quite a bigger task than some others, as I've reopened the chimney breast, which I'm going to board out and put my AV receiving, and bluray/tv box, and in a few weeks when i've had a rest, i've got an acoustic partition to install which will cut sound down between mine and my next door neighbour. Heres how far i've got up to now... This was a before after i'd taken the fireplace out (to be relocated into the to be built dining room) and opened up the chimney breast Discovered a LOT of soot, one of the owners must have had a coal open fire at some point, so cleared as much off as I could and washed it all down. Will put a tube from under the floor into the chimney stack to provide a ventilation source, chimney pot is capped, but has ventilation built in. This room is probably the worst for rubbish out of them all, so a good clean out... Quick re-wire, and new joists in place... Base layer 20mm insulation... And topped up... The top layer was re-used from what was down, hence it being a bit worse for wear, but the 20mm layer is well sealed below. Some of the bits have popped back up a little from when i foamed them, but i couldn't move at this point my back had totally gone, so will sort it out when i do the next stage. Next to do is airtight membrane, and then the chipboard back down which was taken up. The floor in the chimney area will be formed when i've done the main floor, life without a TV is slightly boring lol! So yeah more to follow when i can actually move again and do the work

Just had a look at the manual, and I believe that is called a splayed angle, though having looked online I can't find any ready made. I should think a steel fabricator will be able to knock you one up in a matter of seconds for not much money. Depending on its weight, you could use quite a few of these: https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/71297-2-hole-135-angle-bracket-for-strut-sold-in-1-s Looks like there is an angled bit on the back of the MVHR which grabs onto the bracket, so these would likely suffice, and you could also put a length of 4x2 underneath it for additional support as a just in-case. My humidistat kicks in very fast, as soon as it reaches the desired humidity, i don't have any manual boost switches, they're just another thing to wire in that wouldn't get used.