MikeGrahamT21

That answers that concern, thank you!

Induction hobs in general are great, had mine for years and you can really tell the difference even in the air over cooking on gas. The built in extractors look good in practice, the ones i've seen in showrooms look slightly ugly (but then i guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder right?), but i think my main concern would be my classic trick of spilling something, pan boiling over, or dropping food down the holes. No idea if thats even an issue or not?

Ahh i get what you mean, i thought you were floating this over the top to get rid of both the gap and the thermal bridge from the internal blockwork. How about something a little bit like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175408005770

I got a sample of this stuff ages ago and it’s rather crazy, you can screw into it like timber. you should be able to fix it to the inner leaf, either with metal screw and washer, or you could use a shortish plastic external wall insulation fixing like these: https://www.toolstation.com/fischer-dipk-insulation-render-fixing/p42435?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=_dm&pcrid=&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=CjwKCAiA_6yfBhBNEiwAkmXy5wOfdWzUTcYgnzaAqhy3S3hBgsFY4-7cYfyyzzq_fauWaT1pXgvM9RoCTeQQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds you may well need to look for a smaller pack size tho!! 😂

You wouldn't use foil tape to make the join to the masonry, it wouldn't stick properly for a start. The masonry is pre-primed with airtight primer, and then in this case I used Tyvek Airtight Tape to make the seal. At the top of the roof, the insulation butted up to the timber wall plate, so I used the foil tape here to make the join as it adhered fine.

This isn't correct, you can use foil tape to form a VCL, and since i've done this myself i know its done right. https://www.kingspan.com/gb/en/knowledge-articles/what-is-the-purpose-of-a-vapour-control-layer/

Yes, 25mm air gap as standard

You are spot on, I personally just divide the roof construction into warm/cold and its definitely not cold. You'll start to run into more questions with BCO when you start using phrases like 'Hybrid', as long as you are using a BBA approved build up, then its already pre-approved with BCO.

Imagery looks good from what i can tell, but I can't read the text, image is too small, and when magnified it just goes fuzzy. Assuming you have all of your elevations and plan view?

There are but these aren't part of this particular extension, its installed in the kitchen which was the first one i did, around 2012.

Definitely not the experience i've had. Have a look in my blog, the last lot i did are in there for the purpose of helping others, but please bear in mind, that they are for extensions and not a whole build, though having done 4 seperate extensions each with their own submission i've practically rebuilt the whole house lol

I still don’t think you need it. If you are paying a 3rd party to draw up plans for you, they should have the knowledge of building regs and be able to submit a successful application first time. I have drawn my own plans for years and never once failed on first application. They may ask for additional calculation if you are building something out of the ordinary, and we now have Part O for overheating which needs calculation, could also be structural calcs required which would need structural engineer. the only bit which may delay the build is if they ask for a soil survey for your foundations, but you’ll know about this very quickly, BC is not like planning, doesn’t have to go to a committee, you get assigned a BCO, they will check plans, and if necessary query anything if needs be and this will happen in weeks not months. and if you want more speed, use a private BCO, generally the same cost. hope this clears it up for you.

Personally think it’s a waste of money to pay someone to look over them. If you submit full plans they need to comply with all current regs, but that is only an if, you can go with building notice without submitting any plans at all, this tends to be the way with run of the mill construction and having a firm in to do the building. If your building something complex or building yourself then it’s probably worthwhile not only getting someone to check the plans, but to draw them up unless you are confident that you know the regs for what you are building.

Yeah seems about right for a lot of tradies, a shame when all that energy has gone into making the product. Also, your timber has signs of woodworm, has it all been treated?

Hi Adam, for over the cavity take a look at compacfoam at Green Building Store, in fact I think someone was selling some on here in the marketplace.

I’ve tried so many different things over the years, started with caulk, then siliconised caulk, moved onto Everbuilds 25LM, and just recently I’ve had to do them yet again, this time I opted for CT1, time will tell! It best bloody work at £14 a tube! it certainly seems to have stuck well. before you apply, lightly sand both surfaces, the wall and the frame, clean it with alcohol wipes and don’t stick your mitts in the silicone to smooth it out, a concave finish will always have weak points, get a proper tool to create a wedge shape

14 years and counting! lol Heres a detail i've found: https://polyfoamxps.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/10-Bel-DPC-Wall-susp-fl-junc-detail-showing-PF-at-door-threshold-Option-1.pdf

Depending on which way the joists are running, you could well be splitting that load over quite a few, or maybe just 2. If you can see where the nails/screws are in floorboards, you'll know which way joists run.

Isn't that just a house constructed from SIPS or ICF? 😂

Marmox Thermoblocks are essentially XPS with concrete reinforcement in them, where aircrete blocks are 0.11W/mK marmox is 0.047W/mK https://www.marmox.co.uk/products/thermoblock

Garage conversions fall under permitted development, so they've either been removed or there are some special conditions in your area. Looking at the wording, it seems that the original planning permission which was granted for the initial build of the property, removed the right to convert the garage without additional permissions. You have little choice but to apply for retrospective planning permission and hope that its passed, but before you do, go and read the original planning application documents. An alleged breach has been disclosed on the council site: https://public-access.horsham.gov.uk/public-access/enforcementDetails.do?activeTab=summary&keyVal=ROXOYLIJ0GB00 The old planning is pre-1990 so isn't digitised, but you can view it at the planning department apparently: Outline; 3 terraced houses with integral garages and parking (From old Planning History) Ref. No: HU/223/81 | Status: Decided

I’ve got this job on my radar for this year, years ago I blindly tried to get insulation in right place but I’m almost sure I missed bits I couldn’t reach. will photograph and document it on my blog on here

You'll have a job on getting the pipe plus rubber seal into the fitting, which will show just how well they seal. Shouldn't be any need for anything else. Make sure you clip the retaining ring into the fitting too. No need for duct wrap tape around the semi rigid stuff. As long as its decent quality kit, it should perform as designed with no worries.

not going to make a difference to smoke smell? I can assure you it definitely does. Gone are the mornings when smoke smell from wood burning used to wake me up on a morning. as with all activated charcoal it absorbs VOCs

I wonder how much the new ecodesign stoves give out, meant to be much improved