willbish

How much is roof covering materials and labour per m2? Genuine question as Ive only really got ball park figures. In-roof solar does look a great better, so worth a premium IMO.

Have they been hanging around since 2011?

Im not sure there is much financial saving to be made by substituting roof materials for PV panels. Consider a GSE in-roof mounts and flashings for 16 panels (4.0kWp) is £1950 Where as an on roof system for same size would be £500 So an extra cost of £1500 for 24m2 Is the roof covering more or less than £62.5/m2? Not sure my maths is correct on this one though!

Depending on how thick the outer insulation of your ICF is, I can see why you may want to move your windows and doors towards the outside for aesthetics. For a large glass door, sitting it on the concrete core would make sense from a structural perspective though. Although it may be possible, by adding some steel that would cantilever the door over the insulation, to move the door out. My windows will be installed in ply boxes so they can be moved closer to the outside but will have insulation surrounding the frames. Block and beam as a first floor, yes no problem. Pour the ICF up to height required for the beams to bear on, subsequent ICF poured on top.

Hi Russ, With 4.0kWp at your location, due south, 20° roof (your roof is one shallow pitch isnt it?) The PVGIS page says you should generate 3840kWh per year A new but cheap 4.0kWp system should cost you <£2k. DIY install. Assuming your grid electricity is 14p per kWh (today's prices, will surely be more next year) So when you have consumed 14,286kWh of PV generated electricity it will have paid for itself. (200000/14) If you consume 100% of the 3840kWh generated that is 3.7 years payback (14286/3840) Realistically you may only consume 70% so 5.3 years payback (14286/3840*0.7)

Yep top chord on the pole plate @Alexphd1 posted some pictures here

Someone with actual Logix blocks. They must've ordered last summer! ...13 weeks and counting here

Thanks for the recommendation. I have had some worthwhile advice from these guys too and have decided to use a bentonite waterstop in combination with the Duel Seal membrane. Regarding keeping the cavity dry. I will allow the water to drain out through some weep holes and have been reassured that some moisture in the cavity isnt going to affect the ability of the waterstop. Yes agree. I think the metal upstand looks a good idea for ICF. Pity it is too late for my build. I'm thankful that where I've overlooked this detail it hasn't caused me too much of a headache. Fortunately Im only retaining 0.7m

The Supercast SW10 is 5mm x 20mm What sort of giant water bar were they using?

Ive not used it before @Big Neil, my understanding is its used on vertical and horizontal joints where water pressure could 'push' its way through between two sections of concrete. If the water bar comes into contact with water it swells up and thereby fills and minute gap between the two sections of concrete and stops any water travelling through.

Good call, it was intentionally insulting

Easy @scottishjohn. No need to get personal. Granted its not mentioned in the Logix Install Guide, however it was raised during the training day and it is a standard detail on joints that need to be watertight. I could leave it out and be fine. I could spend an extra £100 and have another level of protection. If fitted correctly of course!

"Supercast SW must not be immersed in water prior to concrete placement, however, Supercast SW20 can tolerate up to 2 day’s exposure to damp conditions on site." I think its pretty critical that the water bar isnt swollen at the time the concrete is placed.

Nice suggestion, cheers. Will give it some thought

I could drill some holes. Would have to be a lot, say every 300mm, to ensure its well drained and dry ICF is Logix XRV 6-8 which has 203mm outer skin so would be deep holes too. Bit reluctant to go drilling crazy. Some info on water bar supercast-sw.pdf

One elevation of my build is a retaining wall about 0.7m high. Here Id like a water bar on the joint between the slab and ICF, the rest of the above grade build I am not so sure. What I'm wondering is.. It's going to take me weeks between laying the first ICF blocks and pouring the concrete. During that time it will be impossible to keep the water bar dry. I've currently got starter track in place and that is holding water on the slab. Water is going to get through under the starter track. So if I'm going to keep the water bar dry I would need to seal the starter track and cover the concrete cavity. It just isn't going to happen. As for drying the bottom of a 2.8m cavity just before pouring concrete no brilliant ideas are springing to mind. Go go gadget arms... So if the water bar is wet and expanded when the concrete is poured could it then shrink later on and leave a void?Potentially this could be worse than not having a water bar at all? In a previous post, I think it was @jamiehamysaid he chose not to use a water bar between slab and ICF, was this one of the reasons by any chance?

As the 75mm duct is so much easier to work with, if you can't reach the required volume of air with 2x75mm instead of increasing the duct size it might be easier just to add another terminal.

Room size is the factor not total area. If you've got big rooms you may need to double the 75mm, 2 ducts to a single valve adapter. If you've got really big rooms then the larger duct may be necessary.

I will PM you the guy I am using. He is £500 upfront for the design which seems a lot. Especially as Ive already designed all the duct runs, valve locations, unit location etc. However the total quote for all the equipment and design is cheaper than Ive been able to source elsewhere. CVC were the closest on price for the identical products. (Incidentally very helpful advice there) but couldn't beat the price. Mine will be a DIY install with support if necessary

She's on her own with that problem

Not enough to have to use the discount voucher

Shouldn't laugh ? but who would call themselves that?!

Can't believe you are painting already! There was a time not so long ago when you and I were having ground investigations done in the same week. Here I am still waiting for some ICF blocks to arrive! (Anytime you want Logix ?) So testament to your meticulous and methodical planning, the finish line is in sight.

Hello mate, good to see you've finally signed up Mods, ill take the commission for this one!

Exactly what I did. Got the permissions for the extensions, alterations and roof terrace. Then did a final application to demolish and rebuild to same design as previous application. No hiccups