Chanmenie

They are all set to 1 from the factory. Here’s the manual that should help https://www.grantuk.com/media/5179/uh8-rf-v2-15-lr-manual.pdf

I could not live with them that far off flat it would do my head in. l’ve just tiled my upstairs bathroom and used a levelling system. It was so easy to use and the end result looks great. I would never lay tiles now without using a levelling system.

I used 25 x 50, don’t think you can get 30 x 50 battens without having them specially made.

Have a look at Tapworks softeners

Our Renyaers sliders came with tape all over

I’m installing VL Plank at the moment, it’s pretty good

You can dot and dab onto EPS Plasterboard adhesive and Soudal Plasterboard adhesive foam both worked well on my EPS build

Those boxes are not designed to have grommets

How are you planning on building it ? Those U values for walls floor and roof are very low

Yeah I get that @JohnMo but in lots of cases a heat pump is recommended way over the the heat loss. my heat pump will heat my 190L in considerably less that 2hrs. And in your example would the pump actually be running for 24hours ? That would be a bit expensive, how long does yours run for ?

I think you mean 4.5 KW ( which seems high given you said near passive house spec ) in which case you really don’t need 10-12 kw ASHP my build is 190m2 my heat loss calc at -5 is 3kw so I have a 4KW ASHP. I had previously been told you have to make the heat pump bigger to allow for DHW but that’s not true as I don’t believe the pump will heat both at the same time

What was your heat loss calc in watts, if you are near passive house standards 10 - 12 KW sounds way too much unless you’re 400m2 ? My experience is most of the UFH designers don’t understand ASHP’s what’s your floor make up and how much insulation under the UFH pipes ?

Good post @Gus Potter I used Hardie VL Plank, they have installation instructions for weights and wind loads, which I used when designing my install

They do both mine are Alu clad here https://www.nordica-uk.com/asp-pages/aluminium-clad-windows/outward-opening-aluminium-clad-windows.asp

Yes they do, their fitters are very good. They were very careful and used lasers and levels constantly. They fit properly with expanding tape, and used Illbruck FM330 air tight foam internally. They fitted my patio doors and some windows for an elderly relative who was very pleased. I fitted my own windows. If you speak to Simon Pilch the owner, mention my name (Mark Mancini) https://www.nordica-uk.com/

Haven’t come across Nordvest, but I did look at the others and decided to go with Nordica, I believe they are made in the Viking factory in Finland, very well made and competitively priced compared to others you mention.

Yeah that might have worked, but at the time I built and concreted the gable ends I was going to have them rendered. Still if my compressor and pipe works it won’t be so bad. Because of the big windows in the gable ends there’s actually not that much cladding to fit

Yeah I’ll know about when I’ve finished it all, drilling through 180mm EPS and 25mm batten then 75mm into c35 concrete is a chore, it’s difficult to clear the spoil so when you push the screw in it pushes the spoil back in the hole and binds the screw. Gonna try a length of brake pipe attached to a blow gun with a compressor and blow the holes out

I considered using click LVT or SPC but for a bathroom the need for expansion gaps made me decide to go down the glue down route. My subfloor was 22mm caberdeck so I screwed down 9mm plywood. For a concrete floor you really need laytex / sell levelling compound as it needs to be really smooth and flat. For our downstairs we are having glue down LVT installed, the installers are going to grind the concrete and screed with self levelling compound.

Here’s the data sheet https://app.nextpim.de/Cloud/6118eacef55a4834b44c3623/a3ba70a2-990d-432c-fb8c-08d79e6bb09c/Product_data_sheet_Blue-Power_Systemschraube_EN_06_2023.pdf like I said mine are 280mm through 180mm insulation and I’m happy with them. The tech team at eurotec said I could use 600mm spacing for the screws but it was easier for me to use 500mm so even stronger

Nice build and a very nice car 👍😀

Not with screws in the post I linked, they are designed for the job I’ve screwed through 180mm of insulation and believe me once the batten is tight to the EPS it won’t droop. I checked with the ICF manufacturer and the screws manufacturer, Theres someone else on here who’s done it with heavier cladding than mine The James Hardie VL plank is about 11kg a square meter so with battens and screws at 500mm centres plenty strong enough

I’m doing same but through 180mm of insulation so am using these in 280mm https://timberfixings.com/7-4-x-280mm-TX40-Blue-Power-Timber-to-Masonry-Screws-Box-of-100-p141878564 they are expensive but specially designed for the job They do shorter lengths

Foil tape https://www.toolstation.com/aluminium-foil-tape/p81953

Get prices for 150mm 100mm and 50mm I put 200mm Celotex in mine, 2 layers of 100mm was cheaper than one layer of 200mm and far easier to cut. Cutting any PIR thicker than 100mm is a challenge so consider 2 layers, stagger all the joins and as JohnMo said tape all the joins and use expanding foam where necessary.