gaz_moose

rubbish isn't it. I've got gutters to fit but I'm not doing it as its muddy because I've not got any gutters. must be nice having a field.

i drove over to a garage door showroom to have a nose around. i think I've decided on a sectional up and over as it would work best. a roller door requires space above the opening for the roller which i don't really have so i would have to lower to opening height and have a massive bit of upvc trim above the door. I'm a bit stuck on what i should put the height as, I did try to pump the ruff sales bird for how its done but she just wanted to send a salesman round 🙄 The roof slopes from right to left and the door is on the front so the brickwork on the right side is higher. i then just cut the bricks to match the angle for the front and back. the joists sit on a 45mm wall plate so i screwed a length of 45 to the bottom of the overhang noggins which gave me somewhere to fasten the soffit. i was going to mount the runners inside the brickwork and not on the back/inside of the pillars. so erm yea, is the height.. A. the lowest side joist B. the lowest side soffit C.

ive had a normal up and over horman on an old house and it never gave any trouble. this one is 2.6 / 2.7M wide so i need something fancier than an up and over, i did have a 14ft up and over before but it was knackered and i always worried it was going to fall on my head when stood underneath. Rollerdoor says the top box is 205mm high, i did plan on sticking it up between the joists but overlooked the fact that ive got noggins between the joists. unless i just chop the centre noggin out of the last row?? 😬 good shout on the sectional doors, i didn't realise the track took up so little room. This is what ive built, excuse the dodgy brickwork its the first thing ive ever really built using them and it does need a going over with some acid.

its for a residential garage on a housing estate. i don't want something usually found on an industrial estate or a kebab shop. but i do want something that isn't rubbish. i did think that you get what you pay for but at the same time i don't want the Landrover equivalent of a roller door 😁 , i was trying to find where the Value for money line is drawn 😐 The garage is only single skin brickwork so i know it will never be economical to heat but the ceiling is to be insulated ( because ive some spare) to make it a bit more comfortable in the winter. Mr joe90, did your door rattle in the wind? did it keep the draughts/weather out etc.. would you buy another one from them? as they seem well priced.

i am at the stage in my build where i need to start looking at garage doors, i think i would like an electric roller door instead of an up and over style one. I see a company on ebay called 'rollerdoor.uk' have any of you guys used one of their doors? are these things fairly easy to DIY? Are there any things i should look out for when deciding what or which company to buy from? i know next to nothing about roller doors so it is blind territory for me sadly. i just want one that works with no fancy bells or whistles that is decent and wont fall apart.

in england its 2.5 from the highest point. a dual pitched roof will gain you the most internal headroom. what are you building the walls out of?

acro props and some strong boys to take the weight whilst swapping the lintel. swapping a window for a window wont need any inspection, it should really have a fensa certificate for the new window but most don't seem to care so i wouldn't be too stressed about that part.

the land is on a slope so the rear internal floor is lower than the external floor height. i built the back up higher in engineering bricks to compensate. i was planning on coating these brick in some bitumen tar type paint before i back filled it. is this my best option? i have just over a tonne of old gravel from my driveway ( round beach type stuff) that i was thinking of back filling with this on the higher parts to act as a kind of french drain. would this be a decent idea? Although its only a garage i do intend to keep stuff i like inside it so dont want it too be damp.

Well.. I knocked the old garage down and dug up the wonky slab. 2 grab trucks later a bit of concrete and this is where I am currently at.

i joined a garden room facebook page and a few people have had dramas with getting ground screws put in as they have ended up being slightly out of position. i would probably dig a hole and concrete in some threaded rod.

you forgot to attach your drawings.

attach some timber outriggers to the side of that joist, then build a soffit/facia board end then clad your wall upto the bottom. then use easy-verge over the side of the roof tiles.

how much do them bricks weigh?

So i had some labourer type guys in to smash up an old concrete pad. its about 150mm non reinforced. At first they turned up with titan type breakers that were not doing a great deal. so off they went and rented a big Hilti 3000 jackhammer type contraption and a 110V transformer. this then seemed to be faulty so had to be swapped at the hire place. this worked great for about half an hour but then melted their extension lead. then it would trip the 110 transformer. Today they went and rented a Belle genset and everything was working great for a few hours but then the genset stopped, it was hot so it was left to cool down, now it runs for about 30 seconds with no load applied and just stops. its not a cough and splutter then stop its just a straight stop, adjusting the revs or choke seems to make no difference. it has fresh fuel and seems fairly new. they didn't run it out of fuel, how have they managed to break it? its kind of holding the job up now. the job has now gone over the proposed time so i can foresee some conversations on Monday. but it is mainly due to dodgy equipment that they have provided.

rip it all off and start again.

you do have a point 😁 i suppose if he does a vanishing act after receiving the deposit i have some evidence.

just lift the slabs and brick it up. those bricks are London Brick company or LBC for short, they are called heritage or classic or traditional or something like that. are the slabs higher than the damp proof course?

ive got this old knackered double concrete garage with an asbestos roof, the quote is £8k to remove roof, knock it down, dig up the crappy slab, lay new foundations and do brickwork upto damp proof course level. quote also includes materials / disposal of old stuff. he has sent over a contract with payment terms etc.. Payment Terms: Payment 1 – Deposit £1,000 (Due now to confirm booking) Payment 2 – Garage dismantled - £1,000 Payment 3 – Foundations dug - £2,000 Payment 4 – Concrete poured to foundations - £2,000 Payment 5 – Concrete poured to floor pad -£1,000 Payment 6 – Built to damp - £1,000 but then part of me thinks, what if he just does 1 and 2, then I've just paid 2 grand to pay a labourer a weeks work 😂. but i guess that is just how it is. i figured i would get the foundation guy to build it upto damp so it should be level, instead of them just slapping the concrete in the hole and leaving it for the next guy.

I'm having a groundwork company come and stick me some foundations in and they have asked for a £1000 deposit via bank transfer. I assume this is pretty standard practice to show that im not a time waster but can i do it in a way that actually provides me some protection?. ive had a few quotes for the work and they were 'middle of the road' pricewise. but it seems to be a 1 man band type company. in the first instance it was a 1 month or so waiting list and now its turned into, we can start whenever you like, which has made me a bit more suspicious. the guy did come out to price up the work and he seemed OK, no irish accent 😬 etc..

i had this happen to me, i ended up being able to peel the paint off the whole room. your issue is that you cant feather edge sand the affected area to touch it up.

where did you get your survey for £35 ?? everywhere ive looked seems to be £50 plus vat.

you submit your plans of what and how you are going to build and depending on what mood they are in they say yes or no, or tell you what you need to change to satisfy their objectives. they do 'attached' prefab garages. guy i know had one, don't look too bad.

pack it with some kind of black window fitters trim.

why not change the polystyrene for celotex.

its worth buying a cheap disposable coverall suit too as it gets all over you. when i did mine i also wore marigold gloves taped at the sleeves. then do the work when its cool.