andy

Green Building Store. Job done.

OK, so not the speediest reply @Nickfromwales but you know how it is, building a house and all that So for good or bad I went down the Wedi route and the next challenge is to join a 40mm ABS (or 45mm depending upon if I trim the pipe back or not) to a 40mm solvent weld. I have got a McAlpine T28M which would work fine but the knuckle would nessecitate cutting into the bottom of the Wedi base... I think if I cut it back to the thicker section then it's about the same fit as solvent weld but what can I weld them with? The whole assemly will be filled with a 5:1 dry mix so it has to be 100% before the tray goes down. See the pic of the trap.

IIRC with beam and block and Southern Water means you have to insulate as it's a potential freeze risk. Personally I did a 100mm twin wall duct and armacell un-split insulation slid over the incoming MDPE until it is underground outside the foundations.

Agree, nothing but great service from them.

Go with in-roof PV, there's no point going solar tubes now with PV being so cheap plus you can do other stuff with electricity

I gave it 6-8 hours between coats, not sure building up will work?

I had this exact issue @pocster and for me the problem was too thick mist coat and probably next coat too. Scraped off affected walls with glass scraper (slow job!) right back to plaster, easyfill where needed to repair then a new mist coat (wall still quite pink, 30-40% water). Next coat was undiluted and covered almost all plaster colour followed by a final coat but again quite thin. There is a definite knack to spraying!

Remember if you insulate you need to uprate any electrical cables that run in there as well. Warmcell would be a good option but not sure how viable it is if you are only doing a few infills (from an installer/cost perspective).

I'd say wet sponge that mess off before it dries but that ship may've sailed...

And my BC insisted I cut a home in my zinc roof to facilitate this nonsense... so it's best checking what your random rule interpretation BC thinks is needed!

Sounds good to me then, just a shame fromt he amount of space the units take up but sounds like you have enough of that

It's the vertical clearance between former and soil pipe combined with soil pipe being a wee bit close to the wall too. I hindsight I'd have pulled the drains out into the room by a foot but hell that's for the next house now From the floor level to the top of the DC2 is about 80mm I think and I don't think either will let me drop straight down into soil pipe, so need a solvent weld elbow, alas.

I'd be inclined to go for a larger, single Zehnder unit based on my experience to date. Not sure if you have or not but I would 100% get the system designed by a pro e.g. Green Building Store and see what they recommend. My air volume is circa 500m³ so I wouldd think maybe the larget Q600 could do you?

Will look at Impey then but clearance to soil pipe is a bit tight for drain so could be slightly tricky to sort that bit.

Right, it's about time I did some shower trays @Nickfromwales! I'm fed up of just having a bath... Thinking of Wedi Fundo Plano to keep depth as low as possible. I will need to put some sort of mix underneath the trays to get the correct height, is this normally done using a 3:1 dry mix? That would seem to be the easiest to tweak to get the levels bang on but has anyone else got experience of these Wedi trays?

Yup, that’s it.

Mist coat - circa 1 water to 3 paint. Ceilings, walls, anything in the way gets coated. Give it at least 1/2 a day to dry then put a nice even 2nd coat on and leave it for 6 hours before you do a 3rd coat to cover areas that may need it. It's better to spray too thin and do an extra coat than put it on too thick, trust me.

Timber frame sole plate to concrete slab sealed with this primer on concrete: https://www.greenbuildingstore.co.uk/products/pro-clima-tescon-primer-rp/ And then taped all the way around a very long permiter with this: https://www.greenbuildingstore.co.uk/products/pro-clima-tescon-vana/ Sticks like no-ones business, it's contact activated so make sure you use the blue scraper it comes with to press it down. I then had a levelling screed go down, so that tape ain't moving, ever! If you want a flexible airtight seal e.g. around soil pipe penetrations you can also use this (and tape if you want to go mad!): https://www.greenbuildingstore.co.uk/products/pro-clima-orcon-f/

As I understand it, that’s why you put a breather membrane between metal roof and plywood or whatever your sarking is.

Yeah sorry the membrane I have is under the zinc but the crucial bit I think is the 50mm ventilation void open to the eaves but hopefully your architect can explain more.

As I say I could be wrong here but your membrane has to go on something structural to contain your insulation layer but I don’t see that in your build up. My build up is VMZinc standard construction as specified by both my architect and VMZinc installer.

It has to be double boarded as far as I am aware. If you don't do that to allow the cold outside air to circulate between the board under you roof (18mm ply in my case) and the roof that containing your insulation (15mm DHF for me) it won't work. I could be wrong but am I seeing in your drawing that the airflow is moving in the same space as the insulation? If so, I cannot see that being correct.

Do you have a cross sectional drawing of your build up like this? Where the arrows drop down is the cold roof 50mm ventilation space with battens running vertically to allow air flow.

SMETS1 Secure 3 phase meter here, not SMETS2.

Not true if you have net aka vector sum metering. Bascially you are only billed for what you consume not per phase in isolation, so if you use 2kW on phase 1 and export 1kW each on phases 2 and 3, you don't pay for anything. Not true either I'm afraid in a domestic sceanrio.