Barney12

My understanding is they are working on a new controller which has an integrated solar diverter. However, there is no release date. But, I’ve had no information that suggests this controller will deal with the 50/90% issue. Which if it doesn’t they've not really solved the fundamental problem. I do think though we need need to remind ourselves again (as as been said a number of times in this thread) that the contributors of this forum don’t necessarily represent the ‘mass market’.

One of the reasons North Devon remains cheap(er) is the pretty poor communication links. The North Devon Link Road is slow and accident prone. Of course the the other reason is that South Devon is much nicer and it’s always bloody raining in North Devon

Thats the posh answer

I’ve got one of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01NBFTAHE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it works perfectly. A length of trunking lid is the perfect tool for keeping it from gettting floppy as you push it up your cavity (ooooh matron )

Ouch!

Well that in itself is interesting as I have an email from Sunamp which clearly states the exact opposite!!

Spot on, I’ve spent nearly £6k on Luxaflex blinds, and that’s just the bog standard manual ones. Not a lot more would have got me sage glass. ........ah well next time ! #really?

The honeycombe / cellular blinds are definitely effective at reducing solar gain which I guess means they are effective at containing heat too? I’ve fitted the Luxaflex Duette blinds throughout my place.

I completely agree. The Sunamp’s ability to harness excess solar correctly is fundamentally flawed. Im not a tech expert but I’m not sure the level of control will be achievable with new controller logic alone. The controller gets the charge status from a thin wire which is inserted into a thin copper tube in the middle of the cell. That wire is somewhat “Heath Robinson”; it’s a length of thin 4 core cable with three thermistors soldered along its length; top, middle and bottom (ish) and then encased in some heat shrink tubing.

There’s a couple of points here: Firstly the manual is woeful, it’s incomplete (in places) and parts of it are impossible to follow. I emailed them recently to point out the they even had the description of the status LED’s D5 and D6 the wrong way round in the manual!! If they are serious about this being a main stream consumer product they really need to put a bit of work into the manual. It currently comes across as something of an afterthought. But the second point is the larger one; the lack of meaningful user feedback from the controllers is a massive problem. Even the most basic of devices actually tell you they’re switched on! As I think is mentioned on this thread there is a new controller with better control and better feedback in development but it has no release date.

P.S. Congrats on completing!

Ah, that takes me back. My first career was with Barclays Bank and I climbed the heights to 'securities officer' in my early career. One of the key jobs was to place solicitors 'clients accounts' money on overnight treasury deposit. Remember this was in the 90's where base rates were in double digits. Solicitors were making a fortune by overnighting clients monies!!

Looking good. Lovely worktops. Thats a lot of ovens

I only wish I knew what “inverter control” meant. ?

There another cheap one here but only 5kwh https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F232943320938 I don’t know what they mean by “The cooling function option is not available with this listing” Surely it’s just a control parameter rather than another piece of hardware? I’ve noticed some of these sellers are trying to seriously profiteer from “extras” i.e. “fitting kits” at £600 !!

It will still be fine. Just superglue the next length tight up to it. .........next time

Ahem. Mitre it please Then by the time you’ve squeezed the grout arround you’ll struggle to see it. The joints should be superluged to keep them true before tiling moves things arround. I am assuming you must have a long run and are not just being tight by joining odd bits

Very, very nice! Internal ceiling angles must look fab.

At the end of the day anybody installing 'new technology' (and that's not just Sunamp) need to accept that their is something of a 'early adopter' curve. Its how the company/supplier deal with these issues which then becomes paramount. If they fail to be open, honest and transparent with those of us who are early adopters then their credibility will fail quickly. As far as I can see most people on this forum are comfortable with that early adopter pain which is why we're self building 'non-standard' (and by that I mean self building non-mass market homes). My only other comment is that Sunamp do appear to have entered a 'consumer ready' phase (if you look at their marketing etc) so they can no longer rely on the acceptance factor that comes from people such as Jeremy (and others). You VERY rarely get two shots at the consumer market.

Sorry to ruin the party.....but...... My insulation had wide channels cut in it to accommodate the 22mm pipework. I know that because I cut them After doing so my lids were a nice snug, but not tight fit. In my view the case design is flawed. They’ve just crammed everything in too tight. But, that is understandable as they are fairly sizeable beasts. Also interesting to note that you have re-designed lid. I’ve also received replacements but they appear identical to the originals. In what way are yours different?

There is much I could say but instead I’ll just share one photo (of many):

That’s a really disappointing picture......... ....... @Nickfromwales prefers to work in a small dark cramped plant room, it reminds him of his youth down the pits

I've got exactly the same issue for my porch. I'm intending to clad it in cedar (dimensionally stable and matches my dormers). I'll simply machine up the sections to make a polygon.

Thanks Jeremy. The one bit I still don't like about the Sunamps (but it didn't stop me purchasing them) is the non serviceable nature of immersion heaters. Its a hell of a lump of heavy goop to send all the way back to Scotland if the immersion fails . So to feed my interest.....what happens if you boil the sunamp goop? Does it do spectacular things (I.e explode!) and would such an overheat scenario kill (or reduce) the goops ability to phase change efficiently? (Soory goop is easier to type than phase change )