Tin Soldier

Hi there, simple question, hoping for a straight answer as theres loads of conflicting information out there. Whilst extending my house, which includes two ensuites, a utility room and a kitchen. Do I need to install svp out through the roof with a cowl on top as per the old house, or could I pop AAV's on all the SVPs and not poke a heap of holes in the roof Whilst extending I am also converting a downstairs office into a family bathroom. Do I need to bring the SVP up through the ceiling, through the walls, joist hangers and out through the second storey roof as per the architects detail, or could I pop an AAV within the ground floor bathroom, but higher than any of the u bends in said bathroom? Simple question for extractor fans for ensuites, the existing ones have pipes that pop up through the roof a good 30cm with a cowl on top, are there good low profile alternatives to this that still allow for effective extraction? cheers Scott

Curlewhouse do you mind me asking the complete makeup of your roof structure What I am being told by my sips supplier is Slates Membrane Sarking (22mm whitewood) Battens for air ventilation membrane Sips osb is that the same as yours?

Hi Rob - Its Scott Have a look here http://selfextend.com/the-steading and its subsequent posts I started a blog ages ago about converting one half of my steading into a workshop - You'll see what like digging out the floors are etc. I've come on a fair bit since that picture putting in insulation and electrics etc. It's had to go on hold just now as I'm building my actual house (well house sized extension) so all the focus is on that in the meantime. so far I'm up to founds and clockwork with kit going up in March before I take over everything inc roofing - amazing the confidence youtube gives

Hi Rob Just responding to your message, clola eh- well you really aren't far. Looks interesting, and much like my steading happy to help out with anything you need re tools or any advice I may have to give etc when the time comes. Out of interest, who is your architect?

so another roof related question this time its constructing an actual roof, as opposed to covering a pre built house The panel company are onsite in March and they will be constructing the main building, but will not be doing anything to join the existing extension. they are responsible for installing the steel beam that supports the opening between the two, but I will need to construct the roof structure itself. I'm just at the start of me figuring out how to do this, I've never really paid it much notice as I don't need to open it up until I am ready I've attached a pic of the bit I'm interested in, the structural engineer has asked for 3 lengths of (doubled up 2x10) hung from existing stone wall on the left, and adjoining the steel beam on the right. My question is around how to connect the timbers to both the stone wall and the steel on the right, do I buy joist hangers for both sides (if so any pointers). in terms of the steel on the right to I cut the wood and sit it in the flange of the steal, or is there a specialist hanger for the steel beam any pointers greatly appreciated.

Hi Rob, Welcome May I ask where about in Aberdeen(shire) you are converting? I'm extremely interested as I have a small steading to convert myself, as soon as I complete (and I've only just started) my build I'm up north or Ellon, near Ythanbank

also, do wall chasers cut concrete?

thanks two very different responses Ragg987, possible an option, but that partition doesn't exist at the moment and won't for a few months. it's currently my kitchen which is being split into two, Nick why cutting a channel and not up and over? - just wondering how you decide upon these things In terms of cutting channels, how deep are we talking here, and I assume the lagged pipes are cemented over?

Hi There, During my extension I need to remove the existing combi-boiler, and I am in the process of firming up prices for the proposed replacement, Grant external system boiler, Telford sealed thermal store. Now the problem is where these would ideal be located are not perfect, for where the boiler will be located. Option 1 is my preffered choice as it there its in a good location within the proposed utility room and looses the minimal of space. This is housed in a 15 year old single storey extension, probably sitting on 100mm concrete, dpc and minimal if any insulation Option 2 is similarly located but basically dead opposite the boiler. Now the problem I am facing is how to get the pipes from one to the other, if at all possible. do I come through the external wall, then strip off the plasterboard of interior walls and ceiling and run the pipes up and over to the boiler, or dig out a channel within the floor and run the pipes that way? I know the ideal location is probably just on the other side of the external wall opposite the boiler, but that's not to be as the wife will not have it there. What's my best option?

Sounds good gents Alex I'm up north of Ellon in Quilquox, near Auchnagatt. I've gone back to the plumber suggesting a smaller boiler and passed on my previous quote from Trevor @cylinders2go - I've asked him to make sure he's comfortable (he should be) with what I was sourcing, The saving covers the woodburning stove that I'm after, so Its definitely been worth pursuing.

I have a turco combi boiler at the moment which all the local heating engineers are suspicious of for some reason, so I'm choosing the path of least resistance which is Grant - the local company which come and fix our boiler every winter are grant through and through Thanks guys

you think a vortex pro 15/26 or 15/21 or 26/36 more suitable I'm happy with the boiler as everyone is suggesting grant up here, but its just what is right house will be 5 bed 4 bath, 250m2

Telford?

second installer has recommended a 750 litre EnergyStore Bio Duo, but a lower powered grant boiler confused much ?!

so I've been picking my jobs - as such I'm backing away from plumbing in the heating/boiler as I'm busy at work just now and this needs to go in before the main build starts in march I have a quote back from one plumber - materials list below Plumbing Materials list Grant vortex 36-46 outdoor module boiler Mag one central heating filter- requires to be installed for 5 years warranty Oil fire valve Thermflow cylinder type 500l 50l expansion tank and float 4 pumps for each system plus pump valves – rads, underfloor, oil boiler and solid fuel Rust inhibitor for complete system 28mm pipework and fittings 22mm pipework and fittings Mcdonald engineering thermflow cylinder (which is circa 2,3k) , and what looks like a beast of a boiler Is 500litres big enough? the reason I ask is that another plumber about to give me a quote has recommended a 750 litre store. Also, is that boiler overspecced? I don't mind paying the few hundred pound extra for a more powerful boiler, but would I regret it in the long run?

not according to the sips company, no, 22mm sarking required. it does seem strange, I'll admit oops, forgot one important thing membrane, with battens at 600mm, then sarking, membrane, slates important thing to forget

I'll be nailing directly into 22mm Sarking board interesting point about not piercing the felt the build up is OSB panel, covered in membrane, covered in sarking board, another membrane, slates. so Sarking will be nailed through roofshield that's left by the panel company.

https://www.dailyrecord.co.uk/news/crime/peterhead-unlocked-how-sas-troops-2472605 I wonder if I'll find any initials

anyone got a good source for copper nails? What size is recommended?

Well I'd be interested to know that too @Nickfromwales Peterhead prison went up in 1888, I wonder at what point these went on?

Well I'll be following this with great interest, I'm battling with the dry v wet verge question at the moment, and sourcing my materials ready for when the panel company leave the site in March I've watched heaps of videos, (I really like fixmyroof) and I am gaining confidence in doing it! Are you planning on roofing the house yourself too?

Slates have been delivered a few months ahead of the game but happy to have them all in good nick, very consistent no need to rehole Happy days

I searched and searched for a cheaper version or info on making it up i ended up just plumping for that very chamber very solid and very easy to use.. just overpriced

Hi There, I'm looking at sourcing Ridge Tiles for my roof, current roof has fireclay, mortar bedded, buff colour tiles. whats he pro's and cons of dry ridge v mortar bedded. which stands up to high winds better? Also struggling to find clay ridge tiles (especially in buff colour) Just plain angled. does anyone have any sources? I've found GRC (Glass Reinforced Concrete) Ridges - https://www.roofingsuppliesuk.co.uk/GRC-450mm-Plain-Angle-Ridge at a reasonable price, but they're not clay.. Will it matter, would I regret it? Cheers Scott

some slight developments in that I went out for quotes for the roof structure just incase they were reasonable. its roughly 200m2 30k including Spanish slate, or 23k if I provide my own... that 30k would cover sarking, membrane, slating/ridge and leadwork.. but not include the two small sarnafil catslides. 30k!... wow. anyway I've cracked on with a slight dislike for roofing companies I've purchased my own slates, 16x8 (400 x 200) welsh purple slates, reclaimed from the local (ish) prison that was knocked down. fantastic condition, straight and flat. 90p a slate. ( In need circa 6000) they are being delivered on wednesday 30k... honestly... I'm in the wrong job.