NandM

@jayc89 - how did you end up using and how much did it cost in the end?

I've just had an email from warmcell also advising not to use it. So EPS it is then

After reading the DIY blown-in EPS beads thread, I started looking into DIY blown-in cellulose. I was/am planning to use it for the cavity walls and also flat/pitches roofs....but: 1) I've had a very helpful chap (Jasper) over at X-Floc tell me that cellulose is not suitable for brick/block cavity as "There is too much of a risk of interstitial condensation and risk of water penetration from the outer layer." When I asked for more information, he said " When it is a timber frame there is always a ventilated void on the outside before the brickwork or indeed any other rainscreen layer. Also, the frame itself has a vapour control level on the internal side at least 5x higher than the external side which helps prevent the interstitial condensation risk. The other equally risky factor for a fully filled brick and block cavity is that external brickwork can leak, water gets through mortar cracks or porous bricks into the insulation layer. Worst case this causes degradation to the insulation and dampness internally or just diminishing the insulation performance if it is wet." 2) I also read the FAQ in the Thermofloc website, which again doesn't recommend using cellulose for brick/block cavity (last FAQ in the list) I know forum members here have used it in a timber frame - but has anyone used cellulose in brick/block? Does the reasoning from Jasper make sense and would it be less riskier with EPS beads?

I've been looking into DIY blown-in cellulose and have had a quote from Markham Sheffield to hire a Turbisol 56/2 for £225ex vat. I've asked about additional accessories...but the price for the machine seems quite good.

For now, I've registered here: https://www.alertr.co.uk/account/profile Not sure how well it works or whether it'll just be a spam bot....

hmmm...I'll see if I can automate some sort of price checking to keep an eye on prices.

@Nickfromwales - how many of those Nicholson plates per sqm of roof?

@low_and_there - what did you end up doing for your flat roofs?

Is this price drop temporary? I'll be needing approx 15-18 panels around this time next year

The Velux in my mums loft shattered last year because of this fault. It was installed around 20 years ago and replaced within a couple of months....which is fantastic service!

@Trillip - what did you end up going with?

Does the window strap or membrane go across the entire cavity to stop blown in cellulose from going everywhere? *Edit* or perhaps I do the fill after the windows are in place?

I don't think the brickie will be doing any toothing, it makes more sense just to have a wall starter...but I need to check with him. So much wastage for a more expensive brick (LBC) is concerning.

I got my samples and am impressed with the quality. From your pic and my samples, you can see some wonky LBC bricks, whereas ibstock are uniform. The big question for me is if I could live with the slight difference on the front of the house, or chance my luck and try LBC just for the front. I'll definitely be getting the ibstock for the bulk of the extension.

Thanks @Gus Potter - this bit had me looking at all the other beams for the extension and they are all UC. I'll ask the SE why the choice of UC over UB. As we'll be having a new roof structure put in, then it feels like going for the one piece and paying for the craning service makes the most sense. As @Russell griffiths says, it'll probably work out the same cost wise and be quicker.

I found their labour and material pricing very hit and miss. But it does give a great starting point and you also have a nice list of the activities to help with actual quotes.

Re deeper ridge beam, it looks like the current height is around 2.8m, so I could loose 20cm and still have a very decent head height. I'll explore this with the SE as well.

@Russell griffiths - I wanted to see if we could get to a size/weight that could be manhandled and avoid the expense of a crane. If the beam sizing seems fine, then a crane would be needed whether spliced or not....which would then bring to the question of the point of the splice if I was to crane it in. I didn't realise spliced joint would add that much cost....it now makes sense why I had one fabricator suggest seven splices "as that's how lots of lofts are done". Good point re manufacturer delivery @saveasteading - I'll keep that in mind and ask for two quotes.

I assumed thermal bridge would be reduced somewhat with it being under the rafters, but I'll look into glulam and ask the question.

My SE has spec'd a fairly hefty ridge beam for a 9.6m span @ 254x254x89UC. This will be supporting either 9x2 or 10x2 rafters with clay roof tiles and in-roof solar. A couple of builders I've had over were surprised by the size of the beam and the challenge of getting it up. I could hire a crane, but I'm wondering if it has been over spec'd and/or whether I can build in some additional support to take some load and reduce the beam size.. I've emailed the SE with my query, but it would be great to get your thoughts as well. I proposed a load bearing wall in the bathroom and, if it helps a lot, a column or pier in the bedroom. Both would be on top of existing load bearing walls.

@Gus Potter - can I get your final thoughts on this - or do you agree with George that it appears to be OK.

These look great - I've ordered a sample...plus I would save almost £3K based on list price.

Is this a problem with LBC across the board? The only matching brick I could find for my extension is the antique rustic, which seems be a LBC only brick.

@JohnMo - do you mean you'd pick low temp rads over UFH? Is that because of the times you're at home, or something else?

I didn't know there was such a service....thank you!