SimonD

Not really, I did say.... 😉 Now it seems your re-draft does that 🙂 and + 1 to @kandgmitchell's comment about the annexe. It obviously depends on your context and local development plan, but when I sat on a development committee in a rural location, planning applications for 'annexes' for rent used to get viewed with suspicion. So be careful how you phrase it and how much you make of it. Even better if you can find a part of your local development plan for rural economic development, for example. There was one here recently where the farmer specifically noted an economic development clause in the development plan to be granted planning for commercial purposes. All local objections were overridden due to the clause.

Good luck with this, I hope it goes well for you! In terms of suggestions, there are a few things I would bring to the table: 1. Don't immediately go in for an argument or use the term 'easily dismissed' as it can come across as rather antagonistic. You need a compelling argument to get the committee on your side. 2. Build upon your initial paragraph to develop a story about how you've considered in your design the aspects of heritage, natural landscape, sustainability and support from the local community. Do you have any support from the Parish Council which could be mentioned. Also mention any and all your attempts to satisfy the requirements of the planners 3. Then go into how you believe you've satisfied the conditions the planner has based their refusal on. 4. Once you've built that story, if necessary you can then go to dismantling the planner's position using the advice you get from your planning consultant, but particularly if there are any problems with due process - for example, the planner has said you haven't 'sufficiently demonstrated' - have they asked for further information, defined what would be sufficient? And also there state that you have in fact supplied the PEA and updated it. Also highlight that you are willing to compromise on certain elements. 5. Carefully consider the legal duties on process for further appeal and raise any and all of these points if needed In my experience, the committee can completely ignore the planner's refusal if they want to. They can also completely ignore community/parish council in favour of a developer who has put forward a strong argument that they feel will actually benefit the community.....so it's a lottery. HTH.

+1 - have a look at full fill with eps beads. Otherwise I fear there will be a lot of swearing and cursing and a poorly finished insulation layer. I also believe that once it's filled with eps it no longer needs to be ventilated as it ceased to be a ventilated void.

I have a Topdon TC001. It's between £230 & £280 on Amazon. I used it a lot for work. Very happy with it. Really small but you need to choose either the TC001 with usb c or TC002 for IOS. Some images:

Would Shelly relays suffice?

Yikes, the key point for me is that I need to pull my finger out to insulate the flow & returns from boiler to the hot water cylinder and ch manifolds central in the house. As I run hot water priority its a greater delta T!

Unless there's a bath to go in there? But as you say, swallow the mistake, have a cup of tea, keep calm and carry on and either cut some plywood or sister with a meter or so of 4 x 2 and job done ☺️

It's because the hot water is circulated around the pipework, usually at programmed times of high usage. It doesn't get pumped when someone opens the tap. Therefore, if it weren't insulated you lose a load of heat from the hot water circulating around the house and then going back into your hot water cylinder and cooling that down too. So you could in theory end uplosing all your hot water. Think of the recirculation pipework being an extension of your hot water cylinder.

Go and buy a couple of cheap portable Ikea induction hobs like this one https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/tillreda-portable-induction-hob-1-zone-white-70493503/ or even the double one https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/tillreda-portable-induction-hob-2-zones-white-90497166/ and try them out for a while. Obviously make sure you have suitable pans. Once you've spent some time using them, I'm sure demands will change. I once had no choice either 😉 but we do have a permanent induction hob now. One of the best things is how easy it is to clean compared to gas!

I have the Milwaukee M12 subcompact multi-tool and I'm not very happy with it. My very old Bosch professional version is much better and the Dewalts I've used are too. It may be a different story with the M18 Milwaukee tool.

You could look at Glulam - Buckland Timber, who I can recommend, do glulam in Oak as well as a number of other timber species. This could be advantageous for a number of reasons. https://www.bucklandtimber.co.uk/

I'm not so sure. I had a good look round the WISE building at CAT on a visit a good few years ago. Lots of cracks/gaps visible at various intersections at the time. I'd be curious to see how it performs now for airtightness.

Love the story, but as someone who now works in the trade as a result of my own self-build experience, I would not accept that from a customer and would not go back. For me, trust works both ways and that means a customer that pays for the labour and materials when it's due without holding anything back just in case. Cash flow is just so important for any business let alone a small one and I know from experience that any delay in payment can cost me in terms of charges with my suppliers and credit lines especially when 60% of my invoice is for products and materials. For this reason however, I don't separate labour/materials but charge for the job in one sum. For me, if you're planning on retaining something post completion of work, then that needs to be agreed upfront with the tradesperson so it doesn't come as a surprise to them. If you want to build trust, then by all means ask them to complete some smaller pieces of work on a day rate as part of that process. But with all that being said, I still have no clue about how to actually manage trades I'm paying for as they're all just a law unto themselves and I keep on getting let down too!!!

Or even better make the wall buildup hygroscopic and vapour permeable. I personally think there is still a lot left to learn regarding building physics and moisture movement in modern building practise, especially regarding hygroscopicity at its role in effective moisture buffering.

It's very unlikely to be a blocked overflow then, but as you've now got plumber booked, you can leave it to him!

Have you drained it at all since the leak as the water level is below the overflow?

I'm with @SteamyTea on this. Try to get a fan. I've got a secure metal garage I bought over 20 years ago to store motorbikes. Even with vent holes you get a lot of condensation internally simply as a consequence of the shed material and rapid temperature/humidity changes during the winter - sometimes I've gone into mine and thought the roof has been leaking only to see a lot of water droplets on the ceiling. There are a number of solar powered exhaust fans out there that you could use to help solve the problem, but it probably won't completely solve the issue of condensation on the metal.

Soon not. Our electrician had just wired this up on his recommendation. I hadn't even thought of it before he provided his advice.

Our electrician put in a socket for our dishwasher under the sink.

Honeywell's (now Resideo) replacement alternative is the T4 which is available wired or wireless. The T6 is a good piece of kit with smart control through app etc.but its limitation is that it has to be plugged in.

Our new electrician has recommended Varilight for all our led switches. They do sell toggle switches but ours will all be dimmer. I don't have direct experience yet, obviously.

I'm like @ProDave. No way would I use an app, must be desktop. I tried a similar solution last year that had an 'office' extension for desktop. The quote system was terrible as although it had a good database of products it was incomplete and out of date - the prices were nothing like I could get through my merchants. When I contacted their support about it they couldn't tell me why other than the system may not have the latest prices update yet..... Also, I quote a total job price, never for individual products, and my merchants have an online quote system that guarantees the price for 30 days. The other issue is merchant terms and prices, which are not available on a generic search. My quotes are all put together in my accounting software too as it makes life much easier for accounting and invoicing purposes. So for me it's merchant online quotes based on my merchant account terms & prices, excel for additional calculations and accouting software for final quote. With that all being said, the products are never the issue when it comes to quoting. It's calculating time and risk for each job and also covering contingencies in terms of both labour and materials/products. It's covering your arse on all of these things too!

I've come across a similar install in an old house where I replaced the boiler. The direct cylinder was built in under the stairs during a previous renovation with no access to remove and replace the cylinder without taking out the stairs! The solution was to install a plate heat exchanger external to the direct cylinder with a hot water/potable water circulator pump and then plumb the gas boiler flow and return through the heat exchanger. Then just wired up the pump to run when cylinder called for heat. Not ideal but when needs must an alternative solution.

As @ProDave suggests, post a picture of the wiring centre with the cover off sowe can see the wiring. It's also worth checking the thermostats wired to the troublesome actuators to ensure they're not sending a live signal to the actuator when they shouldn't.

I think you should tell them that you don't consider the problem to have been resolved if it is the same as before. However, you say that the problem has gradually returned? But from your description there seem to be some other issues going on: 1. System pressure - have you previously lost pressure in the system and have you had to top it up before? 2. Is it a problem with hot water at all outlets? If so, turn one of the most problematic outlets on and then go look at the boiler and check the water temperature shown on the display. Does it rise quickly to about 80C followed by the boiler switching off and then on again when the temperature goes back down?