Oz07

They may just be metric rather than imperial. Metrics are 626,726,826,926 wide 2040 high Lipping can be fitted to hardwood doors but you start to get into a bit of a deep dive into certification and you'd probably need a contractor who can certify the install unless BC are happy.

You can ask for a quote for a bigger pipe on your side. I think here severn trent encourage 32mm for anything 4 bed and upwards. I had 32 in my place because pressure not great round here and i wanted a good flow rate. Not sure it made any difference because i think they use same meter boxes regardless.

I guess its something to do with being a single track lane that means road closure and more cost. As has been said the overall price isn't too high but its still worth seeing if any flexibility on the traffic management. I think its the road closure and associated pen pushing which is increasing your cost. My last connection was on the other side of the road and it was still less than this. That entailed digging halfway through the road and through path. Backfilling and resurfacing, then digging the other half and connecting. This was all done with barriers and iirc no traffic lights on that one. Cars just had to give way to each other for couple of days.

I thought the only doors which needed that access requirement was a route from the front door to the gf w/c? Maybe the kitchen too? Plenty of mass built homes have 30" on ground floor.

If you look at the quote its the traffic management thats killing it. Any pics of the road and verge? Seems a mistake.

3 months from passing inspection I've never had that before even on a busy road with 2 way lights

The ones you build in as you go are a lot better. More rigid plastic. Only thing is they aren't always as well insulated as they should be

Where do we stand with these design and fixing details? How much common sense can be employed nowadays before you have to involve an engineer?

So you had your frames made 18mm smaller all around or made internal openings 18mm bigger? Or am i misunderstanding

The weight of the leafs ok on brackets like that? Do the jambs not bend?

Not a bad idea but could be a big dowel. You could make the dowel look like a big square peg if you wanted i suppose?

How far are your frames overhanging the cavity out of interest? Im always looking how people do this detail and finish it. Can door frames be fixed just on brackets too or do you need side fixings into substrate?

Youve only got a certain thickness to work with its not like you can fit 50mm insulation between brackets and plasterboard. Is the thermal performance of such a small amount of insulation really going to make much of a difference in this situation? Id be inclined to just fit plasterboard up that reveal with a full backing / bed of that fm330 air tight foam stuff hopefully then seal up those cavity closers

Are you happy with seeing the threaded bar and washers? Could you use some kind of coach screw from back of trimmer that the newel sits on into the back of the newel so not visible.

Id not be as concerned if it was just the slab and not foundations. Look for cracks in walls to see if foundations have moved. Internal corners often don't get the hardcore compacted as well so sometimes sound a bit hollow anyway. Maybe the moisture levels changing in the soil haveade the ground move a bit in that corner?

Loos work better on the reduced ceiling height wall if it works with your layout. No odd shower screen shapes or workarounds needed

Be okay if was just a partition but that looks poor for a load bearing stud. I can't believe the cut in the middle of joist is designed like that. How many are cut like that? Whats the bottom of that stud sitting on, is the floor below load bearing?

Use aircrete blocks or lightweight conc if worried about weight

Digression but have you seen how narrow some of the joints are on some victorian stuff. Very much like 6mm on some houses makes you appreciate how good they were at setting out and cutting.

So the plot we are looking at has planning for a single storey of approx 400m2, around 40m long and around 10m deep. Too big for us but would be handy to do it as 200/250m2 house with an annex to the other side of around 150m2 depending how much we loose on the central hall where it could split nicely. I wouldn't be doing it with the idea of splitting off, don't want to be living next door to a tenant. However it would be good for family who visit for long periods each year. Potentially even move parents in next door as years get on. Are there any gotchas to watch out for when re submitting planning for this? I think i will have to do either s73 or full resubmission because of the external changes I want. I will ask about this in a pre app. Am I best to mention the annex in pre app or will it negatively affect the prospects of application? Is it a case of stating only to be used by family in the new application or pre app? Do others just keep internal layout as 1 unit for planning then split on BR drawings? Seems unethical. Thanks

Not sure how much faith I'd have in any bc dept having a qualified person to check an elec installation. Last time I used them to sign off replacement windows they came and used their machine testing for the soft coat glass on the outside. As above of they did offer this service at all surely it would be subbed out and likely expensive.

Was the solar gain on glazing areas easier to pass under old regs could be one to watch for

I suppose the thermo brick creates a bigger buffer between the slab and outside masonry instead of just an insulation upstand. Sorry i was just thinking of the effect on the door frame. Are these ok to be exposed below ground then or do they still require rendering?

Unless you are breaking the bridge with a continuous course of these on the outside then surely you still have a similar bridge towards the bottom of the door jambs and bottom edges of the cills. Is the cold bridge towards the bottom of the building significantly worse than the masonry at 1m above ground?!

You could just stick to the self build product if the charge was bigger than the coat of switching to standard mortgage. It seems these mortgage providers are concerned with similar things you have to input for insurance quotes on comparison sites. I hadn't twigged that the material your roof was covered in effected mortgagability. Good tip there above @ChrisInKent