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Alan Ambrose

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Everything posted by Alan Ambrose

  1. Ah, so 100W base load? Does that include fridge/freezer etc? Alan
  2. Anybody else have actual numbers for their base loads? It would be handy to see what the realistic ranges are. Alan
  3. Ah, I’ve been looking at this subject this week as I just installed the Bright app. I’m getting a ‘base load’ of about 180W including fridge/freezer, router hubs etc & other misc loads e.g. fire sensors and cameras. I have not tried measuring each load separately yet - I’m guessing the fridge/freezer is the biggest part. I had the same thought as you - this should be the most cost effective slice to deal with. It represents 32% of our total electricity use - the rest is hot water, lighting, cooking and a little heating. Most of our heating is wood stove. Alan
  4. >>> So it seems that even if something is Permitted Dev, planning can say no. Which kind of makes sense in the weird and wonderful world of British bureaucracy. Ah, yes it needs sorting out. It's worth asking what policies in either the NPPF or local plan they are using for their determination. These two plans detail most of the 'rules'. So if you're plans are 'breaking the rules' - then it's only reasonable for planning to point out which rule/s your are breaking. That is, this shouldn't just be a matter of the planner's own opinion. Alan
  5. OK I see this from OVO: Alan Updated on 12/09/22 by Tim_OVO: Do OVO offer 3 phase smart meters? As of August 2022, we're currently in a pilot, and will be contacting pilot-eligible customers (OVO customers on single rate tariffs) over the next few weeks and months. We are working with a select number of trained engineers around the country therefore we unfortunately can't install to just any willing participant (as much as we wish we could). Our advice is to make sure your contact details are up to date in your OVO account so that our teams can reach you.
  6. One vote here for blowing the water out. Alan
  7. OK thanks, so Octopus is a candidate. >>> They have already been twice before over the last 18 months to fit a smart meter, only to find out it was 3 phase @Blooda - it would be great if you could report back. I had a similar thing with an electricity supplier (the mists of time mean I can't remember who). Very frustrating but hopefully we've all moved forward since then . Alan
  8. >>> What frost settings are you talking about? Well I have a Heatmiser set-up, but pretty much the same thing applies even if you have a gas-combi and a single thermostat. I guess I mean in this case 'frost setting' as in 'even if you don't have the heating schedule 'on' - at what temperature do you want the heating to start working anyway to avoid the pipes freezing?' I realise other vendors have other terms. And I realise that heat pumps, MHVP etc have their own set-ups, which may or may not be configurable, to avoid stuff freezing inside their machinery. Alan
  9. Hi, I recently installed the Bright app and made a connection to my old BG smart meter. Incidentally, the electricity is currently supplied by Eon.Next who are not picking up the smart data, but Bright is. Duh. Well success, and I spotted yesterday some usage in early morning and evening which surprised me - because I'm not there atm. Seems I had some frost settings set too high at 16 degrees. So, I lowered them to 12 degrees. Now I know you can set the frost settings too low (ask my neighbour who now has a blown UFH set-up). But the question is - how low can you (do you?) reasonably but safely go? Alan
  10. Hmmm, still looking for a 3P smart meter. I've emailed my current supplier EonNext. Next up Octopus & OVO. Alan
  11. >>> The planning application has been one of the quickest bits so far. Oh I see - I only put my first offer in (don't ask) for the land on 2nd Feb and have yet to exchange contracts (don't ask). My pre-app went in on 20th September. And around here, you're likely to get only a vague single paragraph response to your pre-app. Alan
  12. >>> Presumably they won’t take calls and this is all via email? Both - I have had the odd reply by email, often it is just ignored. Same with the phone - once I got through, otherwise I leave a message which is ignored. 11 weeks !!! It would be quicker for me to move to Scotland Alan
  13. Hi, I'm interested in what kind of turnaround times people are getting with their local planning department? Also, how you nudge them along? Also, whether they generally keep to any of their quoted deadlines? I have a local planner who told me on 5th Oct that his response to our pre-app was 'already drafted and would be with me shortly'. And then he said that again on the 19th Oct. Guess what? This is for a plot in East Suffolk that already has permission for a dwelling - we want to just vary the design. A neighbour has had an application for a new dwelling in since February with no apparent planning activity since May ... TIA, Alan
  14. The hatches are your extension? I'm guessing they're interpreting the 12m as an arc rather than a rectangle? Alan
  15. Yeah, there's a good chance they don't realise you have 3P. Alan
  16. OK a bit more info - there are 3-phase SMETS2 meters from AMR & SMS apparently. Good energy fitted at least one in 2020 . OVO seems to have some capability, and also EONNext 'in some areas'. Also a thread on BH here: Alan
  17. p.s. I'm finding figures of 2.5 to 5 kWh for energy usage for 5-10 minute shower - which implies an instantaneous ~30kW heater would do the trick - if only using one shower at a time. I guess that's why we need to store the stuff Alan
  18. Answering my own question... >>> Anyone know why these are not more widely used in the UK? Duh, 27kW is ~110A - so only suitable for those few domestic premises with 3-phase installed. I understand 3-phase domestic is de rigeur ('streng'?) in Germany. Alan
  19. >>> 200mm fluffy is that an SI unit? - it should be along with 2 inches jumpery and 1 chain fleecy…
  20. I just noticed that one of my favourite youtubers, Marco Reps, replaced the Steibel 27kW instantaneous water heater in his house with a Kospel EPME 5.5-9kW one. For our German cousins, instantaneous water heater seem to be a standard thing. And because these devices are so simple, they seem to be very reasonably priced - about £500 & £300 respectively. I can't imagine that 'the Germans' would put up with anything dodgy. Anyone know why these are not more widely used in the UK? Alan
  21. >>> I think the general consensus is that solar thermal is at best marginal compared to PV. Excuse my ignorance, but I don't quite understand how a fairly low tech sun->water/pump->copper loop->DHW system is not cost effective compared to a fairly high-tech sun->PV panel->inverter->immersion->DHW system? I'm not doubting that you're right - but just wanting to understand how 'loads-of-expensive-tech' works better than a 'low-tech-sun-heats-hot-water'. I know that our continental cousins use the latter and they have more sun but...? TIA, Alan
  22. Robin Clevett and his various pals e.g. Skill Builder have a few Youtube tips. Alan
  23. Goodness the quality of the UK government systems for its citizens is atrocious - and I suspect atrocious and expensive. For example, the land registry website looks like something from the '80s and as far as I can see you have to go through checkout for every single property you're interested in. Hmmm, let me see UK productivity is ... shocking. Why is that, I wonder? Alan
  24. >>> Of course this places greater demands on the environment being clear of obstacles. I see that PVGIS has a feature to handle that if you're a proper nerd - which I guess I am. >>> Also worth noting that if you plan to export at current rates (£0.15) it tends to dwarf any other small optimisations to just maximise total generation. Just go with South/40 degrees and you're done? You bring up an interesting point though which is that given export is worth anywhere between 2x and 6x less than reduced import, then we should focus not on summer peak but maximising the other seasons? Below are graphs from PVGIS of generation by month and generation by season for various roof slopes (all for a south facing roof). The concussions are: + for max total generation roof slope of 30-50 degrees is good. + for max non-summer generation, slope of 40-60 degrees is good. + if you weight the value of the winter electricity (to account for better value of those units), 40-50 degrees is good. Maybe I didn't discover anything new - except maybe a slope of 50 is a bit better overall than a slope of 40. Alan
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