craig

These are most likely Jeld-Wen windows btw, not that great.

Simple answer, s***e frame or the glazing is something like 28/36mm and a s***e frame.

You'd be surprised. Internorm for example offer a purenit transport bead on their windows, I've known suppliers to not add it, making the window full height and nowhere for the window cill to be added, meaning the opening needs increased or new window. If all windows are the same, they all are wrong and need the opening amended or the whole order reordered (it's happened). Tiny little mistakes can ruin an entire order and expensive to rectify, whether building or order related.

If not a available, they do tend to accept therm calculations.

Forgot the headline grabbing claim values, they may and probably are accurate, ask for the Uf values, aluminium is by default far worse than timber. However, however, the material they are using for the thermal break may be make a big difference or they still need to add in insulation into the chambers. Which is usually an extra and not standard.

I do, you are absolutely correct, I was on my phone and I call that the "fat finger syndrome". Thank you for picking that up.

U Values, the bain of my life. Something you need to be careful with. Most well known European suppliers will give you the Uw, others will give you the G value. To break it down. Uw is the whole window value tested according to the industry standard and is all four sides of the frame, glass including spacer and and feature bars/astricals/georgian bars. G is just the glass, no frame. Be careful, as some suppliers will give you the calculated unit performance including G value which does change based on window size. However, for PHPP for example, you want the actual G value as shown on the test certificate i.e 0.53 - if unsure ask the supplier/manufacturer and if they are unsure, just ask for the glass certificate from the glass supplier or ask for the specification and add it to Euroglas/Guardian or Saint Gobain glass calculator. That will give you the answer.

Trial and error to be honest, an experienced eye would be able to judge but it definitely looks like you need to pull in the too hinges and possibly release the bottom a little.

Tape measure/string, corner to corner diagonally on door sash and you’ll have your answer.

Just checked, it is 9mm.

It’s either 8mm or 10mm, can’t recall from top of my head to be honest.

This is the type of hinge you have, it's known as an SFS hinge. An adjustment video can be seen here It might not be the exact same, but remove the covers. Is toe and healing the glass in this door, going to make a huge difference? Highly unlikely, the glass isn't a full panel of glass, it is 50% (approx) glass, 50% panel, with a transom midway. From what I'm seeing, the likely cause is a sash drop and the top 2 hinges need adjusted to move the door laterally.

That really depends on how old, condition etc and someone looking for that configuration and colour. I’d suggest if new, 50% to 70% of the value, if old, 50% or less.

The op mentioned “Jacobean” cottage which suggests Scotland as the location and Fensa is not a requirement in Scotland.

It’s consistent with a stress fracture, can’t say it’s thermal with certainty but possible load stress fracture where the glass has been packed. Thermal stress fractures are not covered under warranty but load stress should be but needs to be proven. If Thermal, then a solid argument to use is has the supplier advised on the risks of not using toughened/heat soaked glass? Did they give you the option? If no, it’s their responsibility tbh. A decent supplier I’d expect them to take it on the chin “if” thermal and not advised of your options or load stress. The position of the crack leads me to “suspect” load stress tbh, as that’s the area of the packer.

Can it be done? It depends and can costly and new doors are the easiest option. If already fitted and finishings done? Just replace the entire unit. Installed into a new build and you want to change but finishing etc not done? Then the verticals (jambs) can be swapped and new door sashes supplied but cheaper just to replace and recoup cost by selling the old one.

Exactly, windows vents are not required if alternative background ventilation exists.

it is for new builds and refurbishment/replacements when no other alternative ventilation is applied (i.e mvhr). Can you avoid it? 1: Yes, sign a disclaimer. 2: Sign a disclaimer, then stick them on. However, they are supplied for a reason, specifically room ventilation/condensation and you run the risk of condensation/mold occurring 3: You could source a single room MVHR system that is run through the wall in each room but could prove expensive. Conclusion. Get the vents.

Fensa is irrelevant for a new build, you should refer to the GGF guidelines and also look at what was and what wasn't included within the installation. Unfortunately, not every installer and or supplier understands that PU foam installation only is not a suitable method. There should be a waterproof breathable membrane and or a compriband finish, then PU foam up to the that. This is asking for problems further down the line.

I’ve sent you a message with a couple of contacts.

Out and about just now but drop me a message and I’ll pass on a couple of numbers for you.

I’ll have a look for you but out and about today with the eldest, if you want drop me a pm so I don’t forget.

Sound protection glazing is a good thing but and this a very important point. What type of noise are you experiencing and trying to block? Through ground sound can be just as noisy as sound through windows or around the window. Changing just the window and not properly specifying the right products around the window, connecting to the structure is paramount to noise reduction (i.e compriband) as well as the correct dB rated window.

Aluminium cills as above are available with push end caps but there’s not any suppliers in the UK that I’m aware of that make them. If you need any help with cills let me know.

@Hoops can you ket me know your location please? If you can drop me a message I’d be willing to assist as best as I can.