craig

Fixing straps, those two clips insert on grooves around the frame. Then you effectively twist them into place and then put a screw through the screw hole (self tapper, as you will be going into the steel reinforcement). They are 100mm length and you may not have enough length, additional option is to go through the frame into the structure. If you need anymore, I have about a thousand of them here (100mm) and I have 200mm, approx. 20 of them.

No problem, as supplier I would be asking for it to be changed as would my manufacturers.

Has that detail been checked by the supplier/manufacturer? As with experience, the fixed pane/sliding section are over the slab but the front section which people will walk on is not. It has resulted in problems with operation in the past and warranties. All I’m doing is giving my experience and knowledge, you may find if issues occur that the warranty is invalid as it has not been installed as per manufacturers recommendations (I recommend that the manufacturer has checked it and confirmed it’s within their recommended details and warrantied).

it does but if you look at the two details in comparison, they are different. The detail from MBC is spreading the load between EPS & slab. The above detail is compac foam sitting 60% approx. on slab, 40% on insulation. It needs supported full depth and down, not on 100mm of insulation.

Fantastic, I didn’t think you would have any issues tbh.

Compacfoam and or thermoblock are fine but the weight needs to be distributed. On the detail above I don’t think the compacfoam is substantial enough and is sitting on slab and insulation.

That detail for the sliding door sitting on compacfoam over the insulation and partly over the concrete slab isn't substantial enough, I'd be concerned with the point load over time and potential operational issues occurring. Sliding doors need a solid base to sit on over the entire depth and needs to be level. It can sit on structural insulation but it needs to be done right, part of it is sitting on insulation and that's asking for problems. How's the threshold being fixed in place, how is it be packed (if needed)?

Congrats, was a pleasure meeting you and your wife and it is a lovely property. You have done very well.

Gas is gone within 15/20 years, it doesn’t massively impact the performance.

It's not that uncommon to be honest, even the larger suppliers will only give approx. 2 years on parts, 5 years on glass and is about standard in all honesty. I'm not shocked at those. Manufacturers can only give the warranty for the periods the parts from the suppliers are warrantied to them for. The actual window construction (corner joints, lamination, etc. will be a longer 15/25 year period). It's really unfortunate that the glass has failed, it happens, it's a pain (excuse the pun) in the a**e but I wouldn't be blaming Nordvest on this occasion. As long as the complaint is accepted and a new glass unit supplied but that is down to the glass manufacturer and they have stringent rules they follow for this. I'm presuming the installer and son were German? If yes, they know their stuff, I've known them for years.

Wet work (screed) can cause the lacquer to react and it looks like the finish is compromised. It does settle back down but primarily it can cause swelling to the timber. Which is why it is better to wait until that is done. As for the vents, that’s BS. It depends on the type of vent used and which way they are facing. I would suggest that they are cheap vents.

High probabilty of a failed glazing unit, unfortunately this happens but should be covered by warranty. Do you mind me asking system/supplier? Glazing can be anywhere between 1 ((ulikely, usually minimum is 5) to 10 year warranty. It’s down to the warranty the manufacturer receives from the glass supplier. Just like hardware (handles for example) it is down to what the supplier of the hardware supplies as to the manufacturers warranty. You should be covered though for new glass unit.

They are fine, 3mm is substantial enough but I personally prefer them having something solid underneath and non slip. All they will do is put that down and then sit the door on top. Make sure they seal along the length before sitting door on top to stop water penetrating further back.

It’s effectively a tray as the threshold doesn’t tend to go all the way out, thresholds are generally the depth of the door frame. something mire substantial would be a 20/30 height timber and wrapped in aluminium. Something like this but you either sit the door on top ir recess the timber to make it as flush as possible. The aluminium can wrap underneath and back if required. Usually you have to have this made. You can ask them to make it for you.

Are you meaning like a tray that sits under the door to prevent water going further back under the threshold of the door, or standard threshold/extended threshold that projects further out? Is it an entrance/side door, lift and slide, French door (inward/outward)?

Have you bought it? I have about 20 metres of ME508 available (100mm depth).

What is your external reveal finish? Brick, render, cladding or a mixture? Cills/Sills are pretty straight forward, minimum 20mm overhang but recommended overhang is 30mm and a max of 50mm. From the known window position count from the front face to the external finish, then add 30mm for the minimum overhang. Then add 16mm from front facing of aluminium, to the face of the timber of the window and an additional 8mm for the rebate in the frame (check this is correct with Norrsken about the 8mm). The rebate will sit back a further 8mm (maybe more, but 8/10mm is standard). Sills are always the same width as the window, unless specifically requested otherwise. Now choose the right end cap, they will likely offer 2, straight up (brick), straight up and over (render/cladding). Make sure they supply the right one.

If you want any assistance, let me know. I’d be happy to have a look over it for you.

I’m heading to Chard today, so there’s a possibility that could happen lol An example, Aluplast Ideal 8000 has an air permeability test result of class 4. Which equates to following under EN 12207 Class 0: no performance determined Class 1 → Class 4: increasing tightness levels Class 4 = best performance — minimal air leakage under up to ~600 Pa pressure. EN12208 watertightness, class 9a

They are uPVC systems 😉

Yes, the likes of Internorm, Aluplast, Gealean, Kommerling, Dako, Rehau etc. have air permeability test results according to EN 12207.

Good quality systems, will have 15 to 30 year product guarantee. Same question goes to timber / aluminium to be honest.

I’m at the stage of it works and performs, it doesn’t really matter if it’s uPVC or timber alu. Lot’s of personal preference of course but you can save a lot and obtain the performance with a good uPVC system.

Double glazing should be 1.1Ug or 1.2Ug argon filled 26/28mm, there is no excuse for it being higher. If it is, I’d be looking elsewhere.

It's cool, so I just put a Rehau Synego 1000x1000 Upvc (white/white) window together as well as an aluminium window and timber alu window. uPVC exact same spec same spec for all, no change other than glass. Spacer bar is a warm edge spacer, glass for double is exactly the same (1.1Ug toughened 4/20/4). Triple is 0.5Ug 4/18/4/18/4 toughened, none have extras or locking handles. Double Fixed - £250 per m2 Tilt and turn - £350 per m2 (exposed hinging) Tilt and turn - £395 per m2 (concealed hinging) Triple Tilt and turn - £410 per m2 (concealed hinging). Aluprof aluminium, double Fixed - £350 per m2 standard RAL inside and out. Figures are rounded up for simplicity. Timber aluminium (triple) Gutmann Tilt and turn - £775 per m2, finger jointed pine, standard clear lacquer, standard RAL.