craig

I’m up for that, anyone else here in the land of Nessie in the central belt?

I’m in Chard middle of February, was supposed to be now but slight delay. Might take you up on that 😉

We all struggle, whether building your home, running your business or in life in general. Thanks for the shout @Nickfromwales, I’m going through a lot just now from my own projects, home, life and my mum going through chemo. However, I’m always available and happy to give advice and help where and when I can.

It is a different gasket that is correct, it's whether it has been added correctly. We're only seeing a certain section and not seeing it in person but it does "appear" to be stretched. Usually when a gasket has been stretched, it causes the "ripples" you see. It's very unlikely to be the route cause of condensation.

Add to snag list It should be dry sealed (gasket) or wet sealed (silicone) depending on system. Add to snag list.

You are correct but most in the industry refer to it as a hardwood on the basis it performs as good as/better than hardwoods and costs approx. the same as Oak for example.

Spec wise is doesn't look to bad to be honest, they're using Accoya, which is a good wood option (hardwood). I would see if a flush version is available rather than traditional stepped system (concealed hinges), other than that, it doesn't look to bad to be honest. Price looks decent enough for the size (especially with using Accoya), as it's the front door, either than or an alternative door will need to be Part M compliant. The threshold may need to sit 5mm below the FFL, you would need to speak to them (ask for the section detail and upload it here if you wish or drop a PM).

As you have a pull handle externally, ask them to supply a day/night latch striker. This will allow you to use the little blue switch by moving it up or down to enable day/night mode. When in day mode, you can close the door behind you, but you can push it open without having to have the key with you all the time (i.e. going into the garden/bringing things into the house). It usually comes with a cable to connect to a switch (like a door entry buzzer switch) but you can remove that as it's not needed.

If you're going direct, you'll find it hard to beat a price from going direct. Do you mind me asking who the Polish supplier is? If you want, drop me a message and I'll see if I can help.

That’s what it looks like from the picture.

Not really, the compriband is stuck to the window frame and only expands to the building.

I can assure you, they absolutely hate having to do it and will charge to apply it. I prefer to source it direct, that way I know the install is with products I have discussed. They would rather not apply it, they'll try and offer alternative solutions but compriband, airtight pu foam, airtight membrane is the way to go.

Without seeing in person, it sounds like they may be been stretched slightly and then shrunk causing the issue you see in picture. Is it the root cause of condensation? Hard to say as @Nickfromwales said, were these built on site?

Breathable Water repellent Acoustics Thermal Are just some of the key benefits and why it is the preferred option for most suppliers/manufacturers.

It's a generic name for compressed foam that expands, originated in Austria in the 50s or 60s if memory serves me correct. Some are very good (Illbruck for example) others are just 💩

As you would on the sides and top, you should retain packers all around the frame and not install without any. The compriband should be on the outside aspect of the frame, packers every 150mm from corners and then every 300/400mm and I also recommend under every mullion if possible, as it helps the frame from dropping/twisting.

Then he’s talking nonsense. You always insulate all around the frame and that includes the threshold when necessary. It doesn’t need to be foam, Compriband would be good enough.

There is a clear point you’re missing here. You employed the supplier to supply the door at the surveyed size, the installers installed said door into the existing opening. UPVC by design is “thermally” broken by the chamber design. This isn’t product related by the sounds of things but the lack of insulation under the threshold is. This needs done. Installing onto the outer brickwork in typical English builds is standard practice, it’s not the most thermally efficient position but they really haven’t done anything wrong here. I appreciate you have an issue needing resolved and didn’t exist before. Insulate under threshold and monitor. Discuss solutions before going down routes that sours the taste for everyone.

1: Is it a bad install? A: No, not the best, I’d expect them to clean up the expanding foam and trim/silicone internally (if within remit). 2: Threshold, gaps and no insulation. A: I would have expected this to be foamed and mastic applied, they’ve forgot. 3: Have they breached consumer rights under care & skill? A: No. 4: Draughts/leaking etc. A: Around the frame and on occasion via the door / window is the installers responsibility. They’ve not foamed under the door and I’d ask them to come back and do it plus mastic. Other than that, they cannot do anything about the existing cold bridges present. It’s not up to them. What I see and read a minor snags on the finishing internally and whether that was within the remit and the underside of threshold (foam/mastic). If that was reported to me as a supplier. I’d apologise and have the team attend to sort out at least one of the two issues that I see.

Structural engineer calcs, don’t install without them. You must speak with the supplier and or the main contractor. it’s imperative that design meetings and notes are available, that all RAMS have been undertaken and all weights considered for lifting. That includes mechanical lifting such as glazing robots, which weigh about 1.5 tonne. This isn’t a job for people asking questions on a forum to be honest. In addition, assuming 8mm on all 3 panes you’re looking at 240kg.

It's possible (unless they no longer offer it), to have a full cylinder with a handle inside and out. It would obviously need a little but of work but can be done.

I'll happily have a look at specs, I've asked a few people I know and no one has really heard of them or has any experience of them. If it helps, https://www.thermaglaze.com in the UK based in Wiltshire appears to be distributors for them and have a showroom. Whether they have any on display is another question, as are https://www.okohaus.co.uk/belm, https://www.dalzielonline.co.uk/, https://www.clearglazewindows.co.uk/ The type of supplier appears to vary from the standard uPVC suppliers to high end suppliers, other than that I really don't have anything I can add.

The crack is very likely to be installer error imho. i would tend to agree, welds don’t just crack, that’s to be opposite forced. Fixings should be 150mm from the corner (horizontally & vertically). This. It’s the only way to check, otherwise it has to go down as a manufacturing error. I would also suggest they haven’t packed them properly. As for glass, units fail. That’s just an unfortunate aspect but rare for brand new units to fail like this over a short period without other influences occurring (either that or glass manufacturer is just ****e. Sashes that are difficult to close due to expansion, is nearly always down to poor installation, with packers and fixings not being present or just really poorly done. I would suspect that you have zero insulation between the frame and building. Resulting in the said airflow. I have someone in mind, lives in Lincoln but we haven’t spoken in a year or two. I’ve messaged him and will see what I can do. Otherwise I have someone in Henley or I could do an independent report but Lincolns a 6.5hr drive for me. If you have a laser, run it up the glazing beads (where frame meets glass). It should be straight and if not and you see some pinching. It would indicate further inspection of packers/fixings.

Never heard of them to be honest.

I know my friends who own their own window supply company and I work with them closely, are looking to distribute Finstral and have been down in their showroom and so forth. The ex UK MD for Internorm (Andreas Simmer) is now the MD at Finstral. Good outfit, good window systems from the feedback I have received.