Andeh

Im not sure ASHP Is best suited for your place, I'd be tempted to max the insulation, over size the rads and stick with the Oil burner and re evaluate once you've lived with it all for a few years. Free ASHP might prove costly to then operate.

Likely an S bend even if slightly shallow... Can add significantly to the force required to force past it. If a strong hoover, and or blowing down one end with another hoover fails to pass string... It's been crushed!

Tried a more powerful hoover? I bought a screw fix shop vac and it sucked through a 35m x 50mn duct without an issue... Even drew the water out.... Plastic bag and draw cord did the job... That or UFH pipe, smooth, stiff and easy to push in....

Sounds like 16kw, unless insulation is the absolute focus for your project! We have a well insulated 270sqm bungalow (very very well insulated outside of build hub scales), albeit it a very inefficient design, and 12kw suits us nicely. Check it still runs on single phase, and obvs inevitably higher Elec usage etc.

Hammerite coloured paint!

We did the same! Very happy with it, albeit it we had issues with a bad batch of insulation sheets underneath shrinking and lifting, so it nows looks like a patch were quilt where they had to do localised repairs.

Pretty sure it was about 30% of what I submitted they wanted invoices for. They asked for then a few weeks post submission.

Correct, albeit it for CCTV the headline max speed isn't required, so I compromised with a few nasty bends in the junction box below camera...... And the system still works!

Well timed, I was doing my cameras yesterday! Buy Cat6a cable and use below on both ends. As long as you are consistent with the wiring at both ends, once you've figure out the process once.... They're very straight forwards. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CF21HT7F?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share The only issue I had was fitting the cable... Which is sealed in the wall... And the connections in a junction box below the CCTV. I didn't want to cut the cable too short in case the joint needed redoing, but the long cable was difficult to bend and fit in the junction box. Made it work though.

Ah I'm sorry OP, that's a real shitter! Not being funny, but take comfort there's 50+ others in the same situation!! Have you got legal cover on home insurance? Please keep us updated... But good luck!

I've found you can buy multi cutter blades for metal, and for masonary. Is there any reason why I couldn't use these to carve it all out in situ?

So I've fallen in love with cheap smart switches. They're cheap, smart and effective! The only issue is they need 20mm extra depth then existing backboxes have. The current backboxes are well plastered in, and the cables are tightly routed in. Any recommendations on how to best cut through the metal backbox, and then chisel out the block behind it in a reasonable fashion? Thanks

Yeah, we found similar! Just hope it's sustainable for them, their latest financial statements were/are late per previous post....

Our gates weren't on the PP, and we had them half installed and full invoiced a month before our VAT reclaim timed out. We paid the installers VAT, and added it to our receipts to claim back with their invoice. It wasn't one they asked for invoice copies etc, and they approved the claim. That being said electric blinds and garage doors which they did ask for invoice copies etc they bounced and said we shouldn't have paid the VAT, recover it from the supplier.

Your house is, on paper, noticeably better Insulated then ours, and not being a bungalow likely a more efficient design... Albeit it UFH at 35 degrees give us bigger heat emitters so more warmth at better efficiency (in theory). Could just be under sized radiators?? I'm sure I've heard Tower rads are generally a lot less effective then normal twin or triple fin ones.

Something not right. We're 250sqm ish bungalow, with 3.5 to 4.5m ceilings, lots of glazing (albeit it 45 sqm kitchen floor have around 25sqm of glazing.... Which is a lot in its own right) and our 12kw Samsung ASHP has no real issues keeping us around 21 degrees with around 12 hours run time even on the coldest of sub zero days. Ufh throughout though and we upgraded all our insulation. Can you post up your Sap report? What insulation is detailed?

Insulation looks pretty good all considering. Even some thermal bridging is fairly average. Could just be the fact it's 30sqm space with high ceilings and lots of glass! We have a room(s) similar and whilst it doesn't actually loose heat that fast, it does feel chilly due to significantly above average glazing and high ceilings. Check for strong drafts with a candle... And see if Windows need adjusting. If its connected to the rest of the house, could the warmth be drifting through the rest of the house? All else fails fit bigger radiators, adjust the heating schedule, and accept big glazed rooms feel colder then small windowless spaces! The price for extra heating... £25 more a month vs the cost of that extension.... For the couple months a year when it's properly cold.... Ya can't win everything!

Love it! Good effort.

We had a monster 9kw dual sided one installed, and other then a screen grab of the hetas engineer and an eye ball if it, never hesitated signing it off.

And/or wrap them in some form of insulation, that acts as a slip membrane between them and something else!

Just in the middle of this, blind supplier are saying because they're motorised their trade body has told them they class as electric appliances so are not VAT exempt!! They're waiting on a letter from HMRC!

Had mine pretty much all paid, other then three which I had paid the VAT when I should not have. Had to reclaim the VAT from the supplier, 2 were quick to, 3rd being slow/unsure because they've been informed by their trade body electric blinds are not vat free because they are classed as electrical appliances!? They're waiting on HMRC to confirm. However, what a well though out process. Easy to submit, system was straightforwards and full payment within about 7 weeks over Christmas period. Very impressed.

Builders wipes! They've been good to us over the years.

Rip up more of the floor, sister all the joists thoroughly, few noggin for good measure. Hardie floor down, with decent amount of gorilla glue then tank properly, and tile?

Def run one, and just insulate very thick and meticulously. Was a lifesaver for us as the kitchen ended up about 25 seconds to draw hot water from the cylinder, reduced to about 4 seconds with the hot loop. Bathroom towers are even quicker.