Andeh

I just spent 5 hours getting AC pipes through a ducting. I (expletive deleted)ing hate self building right now, damn job was only going to take 30mins in my head. The bill to dig up and modify the Ducting will be a shitter as well. I hate this shit right now. "it'll be worth it when it's done..." grrrrrr

Builder has come back with the cost of a 2400 x 2400 (approx) concrete ring attenuation tank under our driveway, saying the cost is now 3x his estimate when we started the build. He is asking the architects for options, and I fear they will just shrug us off onto plastic crates. I don't like the idea of these being sunk under our driveway for future debris build up & not being user serviceable, even with a catch tank further up stream. Has anyone come across anything else that is worth exploring? Thanks

Just to soften it a bit for OP, 150mm of PIR anywhere underneath the UFH is still very good all considering. 20mm PIR and then 50mm is not unreasonable. I'd prob go down that route I think. Quicker warm up times and will still let some warmth creep into mega store underneath.

Screw or it WILL squeak when the joists dry and shrink. Use screws which are NOT threaded all the way to the top. We did lots of research on this building several thousand houses a year and trying different methods on different plots then taking the feedback. We found that even when glued floor boards move a little and squet on the shank of the screw if they are not threaded all the way to the head. Glue and screw - screws MUST be threaded all the way to the top. (Our business had the best customer satisfaction ratings in the industry for many years) (note. We used chipboard floors "weatherdeck", and an engineered beam system called Silent Floor) .... From another forum I am on, though this is from a few years ago!

We are renting the world's cheapest and worst built persimmon new build. It's drafty, hollow, thin single plasterboard on metal stud walls that flex, the pipes knock and bang like crazy.... However.... Over 3 floors and 4 bedroom there is only one single creak coming from bathroom in front of the built in cupboard. I suspect the cupboard (fixed) moving on the semi flexing floor. It's quite impressive not a single squeeky floor board anywhere. I'm sure it's called "silent flooring" or something, where all the boards sit on a layer of goopy glue laid on the joists.

Can't coment on the breakdown, but I'd suggest closer to £2000 to £2500psqm build only, spec dependant. Worth getting an online QS service to give you a ballpark.

For the sake of OP's question, the answer is 125mm PIR to get min for building regs (approx I think? ) I'd encourage going for 150mm.... But asking him to excavate down and go with passive house equiv is excessive. The return on investment for going 200mm PIR and excavating to make it fit would have a payback time beyond his lifetime!!!

I WONDER if you could use am External grade colour matched silicone sealant type, applied carefully and smoothed with a silicone spreader? Even if it needs to be replaced every few years it's cheap, quick and easy to do?

We have gone for jet black on white render, though we have gone for black inside to "frame" the outside view and add a bit of contrast. It is an ultra modern look we are going with though!

Following with interest, as I could do this in our garage!

If in doubt...its 95% of the time on you i'm afraid!

Totally this OP!! Sorry you're in a difficult situation..... But this is the best course of action. The alternative is get building control in site WITH the builder so they can discuss it and agree rectification work. Builder can argue about "randomers on the Internet" but BC will give you a cast iron line in the sand the builder cannot compromise on. Just in the background, I would start looking at who else in the area could take the job on. Even if you need to liaise direct with individual trades. Ask at local builders merchants, facebook, friends, family, work colleagues etc etc.

Yep we have a few going in around the property. Washing cars, washing very dirty hands, filling paddling pools, etc etc.... Its a simple but great addition.

Thanks very much all!

My wood burner needs a 50mm ( i think it was) pipe to suck in air from outside the house. I am keen to insulate this just so that when we are not using the wood burner it isnt just sat there cold & behind plasterboard. Does anyone know of any pipe insulation that can be safely installed in the vicinity of an insulated flu? Obviously full belt & braces on safety/proximity to a fireplace. Many thanks,

One for the OP, how'd you get on?

Water cooling is always more effective then air cooling....

Thanks Richard, we have Cat6 externally for signal boosters etc if required... Would Cat6 ever play a part in solar panels themselves? This is what I want to avoid, finding out that the latest generation of panels need some form of low voltage cable or equivalent alongside the big HV cable!

Thanks for the suggestion. We have a single ply membrane roof, so the panels are on frames stood off the roof. I prefer it this way to enable future upgraded panels and flexibility in it. Current panels are 13 years old, but tied to a good FiT so no budget to swap them now, but will look to in future with the permissions on FiT recently changing.

Watching with interest, we are probably going with white as per your picture... But not totally sure.

If its good enough for pub beer gardens, it's good enough for us to try out! If it makes you feel any better we have 3.99Kw of solar going in to counter act the environmental harm.

What's the wall made of, if its a single sheet of plasterboard you MIGHT (probably not though...) get lucky with the dabs and be able to squeeze cables down behind plasterboard? if not, multi cutter to cut a channel all the way down of plasterboard & clip cables in, then bury in plasterboard or chase wall out deeper & fit a duct? Or easiest....paint the duct to match the wall s& that'll get you half way there for 30mins work.

Thanks for all the support! After a really good chat with a wonderful women at National Grid (previously Western Power) she confirmed it'd be an estimate of £1950 for the 3 phase installation, including meter, and two holes dug in the verge. Builder just needs to the dig 3-4m trench to where the meter will be installed. Very happy chap here! Just need to be mindful of future proofing for a 3 phase Solar Inverter etc, but a problem for another day!

Thanks Dillsue! That is very good to know. Our budget is shot so my approach is to refit the ''old'' system and run it for another year or two whilst we build up finances again, then look to replace components as & when funds allow it. I will look into that new FIT, I had heard rumours elsewhere they had taken this (sensible!) approach.

Thanks Peter! I will raise the 22.5 option with them. I believe our flu will need to be 8" or 10" due to the size of the stove. I have been looking around for a flexible insulated ducting, but they don't seem to exist.