Alexphd1

hopefully start the icf part of the build next week ! we picked nudara from the scotish agent.

Welcome. Looks a very nice design! I am building with ICF in aberdeenshire, lots of pros and cons with it!

Whats the general thoughts on the where the waste pipes come through the DPM. Use a proper of the shelf DPM top hat or make your own top hat with DPM and tape?

cheers peter, that makes it so simple!

i originally presumed it would solvent weld into a 110mm soil pipe (making life very easy) but I am starting to question (worry) that i was wrong. we are hoping to get slab poured end if week of weather holds out.

Currently on site today running in waste pipes for a shower. it's a passive slab. was looking at the mcalpine top entry shower trap. does these just glue into 110mm waste pipe?

Why have you decided to replace your unit with one from bpc?

How are you guys getting on with the mitsubishi units? Any problems ?

Cheers for all the good info. ?

any recommendations for eps to eps adhesive?

Declan, I think mikesharp01 and myself are speaking about a single pour structural raft foundation above eps insulation. the house is then build off this inc external walls (icf)/internal wall (timber).

We are planning exactly the same but on a diy basis. Maybe I am wrong but I can't see how grind/polish etc will crack a structural slab, or am I missing something? Due problems with the original engineer who specd 150mm concrete for main slab (material ordered to this spec) and the new engineer spec 100mm and is happy with 150mm "over spec" . So we are happy with grinding away a few mm to show the aggregate.

has anybody any experience with boulder mvhr unit? the HRVU DHV-100N caught my eye.

Unfortunately I have a lot of tiling to do..... also I believe if you buy wisely then usually the second hand value plus the cost of renting is way more than just buying the tool! I used a cheap water cooled diamond table saw last time and it made a mess of the job.

another toy for the list....rubi tile cutter!!! looks a impressive piece of kit!

sorry IanR I should have been more clear. that's the test the architect spoke about. I think he just been very cautious.

Approx 300mm type 1 then 150mm of clean bigger stone (think 50-80mm dont have spec in front of me) topped of with 50mm depth of fine stone. We have followed Tanner structural drawings ie compacting every 150mm etc but my architect has suggested getting it tested for "peace of mind". I feel this is not needed. We are not bothering with a structural warranty but obviously we are going through the local building control as needed for a completion certificate.

Before we start setting out the eps has any body done a load test on the hardcore? It has been well rolled out but my archietect thinks its a good idea for peace of mind.

wow, looks awesome! Do you know the spec of the concrete? We are using c25/30 in our slab.

We have had faulty mixer taps before that weren't machined out properly that prevented any a decent flow . The twice we have came across this both taps came from the same nation wide diy chain....

Anybody looked at stainless?

Again what is said above regarding is your house suitable for ashp. sourcing the ashp yourself and finding a decent plumber?sparkie to connect it up should be cheaper than oil boiler/oil tank installation but doing this you are unlikely for rhi paymnents. Another point to consider is repair, i would think you would be easier and quicker to find a guy for your oil boiler than heat pump. I am going down the ASHP route. quick heads up there is a nice calorex 15kw mono block ashp sitting on ebay at around £1k might be worth a look! just came across a gledhill thermal store on ebay aswell!

Peter w. So the pir would be between the rafter and plaster board? Where what would the best for air barrier for tightness?

I will put my hands up and be honest, i do not have a clue about the make up of the roof. the architect and engineer have asked what do I want. Its a pitched slate/metal roof with a room in loft . We are in Scotland so sarking will be used. Its a ridge beam design with a target u-value 0.1 with emphasis on air tightness. architect has suggested rockwool between and space blanket (?) on top of rafter under sarking which i am not keen on. I was more thinking solid insulation (spec unknown) again on top with rockwall between but how this works with sarking etc i dont know. I have already bought the roofshield membrane. any advice/opinions welcome. cheers.