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bissoejosh

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Everything posted by bissoejosh

  1. bissoejosh
    That's what I'm hoping to do. Where is your airtight layer / DPM?
  2. bissoejosh
    I'm in the middle of both types of construction, a blockwork lower GF/basement level and a shortly arriving timber frame upper. Out of choice I'd ditch the blockwork. Putting up a building in 440x215mm pieces seems crazy to me. If you want a solid construction I'd definitely look into ICF as I see real advantages in it over both TF and blockwork. That isn't to say timber needs to feel lightweight, I think choice of insulation plays a big part here and we're going for cellulose. As others have said if you do decide to go with block try to use pumped EPS bead insulation, it eliminates the issue of builders messing up the insulation and allows the build to continue almost regardless of weather. On mine we used full fill cavity batts and they are a pain, when it rains I cover up, I have to clean out the cavity and the batts take time to cut and fit around openings. EPS beads are done in a day and fill everywhere perfectly (in theory!).
  3. bissoejosh
    Our frame arrives on Thursday & I've one final course of blockwork to do which I'll give extra attention to in terms of levelling in preparation for the sole plates. Do people generally bed sole plates on mortar or dry lay them? I'm not expecting to need any packing if I'm careful with the final blockwork as the levels are currently within 2/4mm over 10+ meters.
  4. bissoejosh
    Ideal, I can certainly sort something similar tomorrow - thanks.
  5. bissoejosh
    They suggested skew nailing but didn't have any strict requirements as such. Yes, I was planning to do this as there is a gap at both ends, not huge and within the design but I'd like it as firm as possible. Would timber wedges do or something more substantial? This was how I understood it, but are the top down fixings technically in shear as the joist moves laterally when it flexes or in tension as they fix it down to the wall plate? I think the safest bet is probably to skew nail each one.
  6. bissoejosh
    Joists are here and dropped in at 400mm centes I'm thinking skew nail the top chord to the wall plate but would welcome any suggestions. For the most they are 97 or 122mm wide, would top down screws give a better fix? Can't find anything specific in the layout drawing or manufacturer installation details.
  7. bissoejosh
    @Vijay if you're still looking Anglia tool are doing the Hitachi with 2200 nails and two gas cells for £279 delivered. I found another discount code for 5% off so £265 which seems pretty cheap for a brand new gun.
  8. bissoejosh
    Did you get this done in the end? What did you use for your airtight membrane as I need to get mine ordered.
  9. bissoejosh
    The majority of the frame is pre cut but some elements are cost effective to cut on site, mostly the straight cuts and simpler internal studwork. Sadly not, I'm in Cornwall so most places are a long way from here. I've set up alerts on all the usual websites now as it sounds hard to deviate from the larger, quality saws mentioned above. That video isn't helping the "I don't need the biggest and the best" argument! Sounds fun, but possibly not for me this time! If nothing comes up soon I'll likely go with the 216mm makita, at £270 it's not silly money and should do what's required. I've also just ordered a circular saw to run through the I-Beams with, a much easier decision as it'll run straight off my Milwaukee M18 battery set. Appreciate all the help.
  10. bissoejosh
    Thanks for explaining, not something I'd considered but makes total sense.
  11. bissoejosh
    If I eliminate the 300mm requirement there are certainly a lot more options and a decent circular isn't an issue but our entire frame is 300mm so it's a fair bit of work. That used DeWalt is a beast, but I'd be slightly worried given the distance from me. I'll have a look locally. Interesting about the Rage, I've read a few reviews about a lack of precision but also a lot of people raving about them! Any thoughts on the Makita?
  12. bissoejosh
    Next on the shopping list is a mitre saw. Not for fine woodworking but studwork and general duties. I need to cut 300mm width for our I-Beams which eliminates quite a few of the cheaper options. I wanted a DeWalt but unfortunately the 778 doesn't have a depth stop and the larger versions are too expensive to justify which realistically means budget is up to £400. Current favorites are the MAKITA LS0815FL or the Evolution Rage 3. Real use opinions on either or other suggestions would be great.
  13. bissoejosh
    The external windows and doors could be a large part of the 45k and if it was me I would want to get quotes myself. When I picked ours the quotes varied massively and shopping around really was worth the effort.
  14. bissoejosh
    Just to clarify £3600 + vat for building control drawings, no planning etc to deal with or redesigns? Sounds a lot to me but I'm one of the people who did it myself. Cost me about £60 for the software I think and I learned a skill at the same time plus a huge amount about what we wanted to build technically.
  15. bissoejosh
    Would you consider swapping the K7 for mineral wool? It would be much easier to fit and a huge amount cheaper. You could then use a rigid board on the underside to get to the necessary U values and reduce the cold bridging.
  16. bissoejosh
    Unless I've misunderstood the regs all I can see specifically about treatment plants is shown and highlighted on the attached screenshot. The various discharge rules are scattered between septic tanks and soak away sections.
  17. bissoejosh
    When I looked into this I found the regs fail as the two rules regarding septic tanks and treatment plants don't match up. The 7 meter rule applies specifically to septic tanks and not packaged treatment plants in terms of the tank/plant location - in theory the treatment plant could be right next to the house unless I've misunderstood. Under the treatment plant 1.54 regs state discharge water should be 10m from any building / watercourse with no mention of boundaries. However 1.27c which regards drainage for septic tank mounds claims 15m from any building so unclear. In summary I rang our BCO, explained it didn't make sense - he agreed and we've come to a sensible conclusion that works for everyone as per @JSHarris comment above.
  18. bissoejosh
    This might help further. You can do final plastering etc at a much later stage once the shell is sorted. http://passivhausrefurb.blogspot.co.uk/2011/02/
  19. bissoejosh
    For the link between membrane and plaster I was going to use something like this, as although I’m using it on a different element of the build to you the principle is very similar... https://proclima.com/products/bonding-agents/contega-pv My understanding is it sticks to the membrane on one edge and the other can be plastered over.
  20. bissoejosh
    I agree with @RichS. This is normally only an issue for floor joists at 1st floor level where they have to protrude outside of the airtight layer. @recoveringacademic on your build the parge coat / plaster is your airtight layer I think? This would therefore be on the inside face all the way up the wall to rafter level meaning the roofing airtight membrane can sit under the rafter and be bedded into the wall face as suggested above. This would all be inside of the wall plate I think.
  21. bissoejosh
    Watching with interest as this is my job next week on our first floor joist wall plate. I was planning (until someone says otherwise) to use mortar & straps for the wall plate, then airtight membrane over the top of the plate but under the joists which sit on top thus making the wall plate 'outside' as such. Perhaps I should be doing the same as you and have the membrane beneath the wall plate. Curious to see the thoughts of others...
  22. bissoejosh

    Nailer

    bissoejosh replied to Pete's topic in Tools & Equipment

    Any brands to look out for in terms of the air nailer? I'm still tempted by the offer above though.
  23. bissoejosh
    Did your samples turn up @Visti? I was quite impressed with them although they feel like a very different product to metal. Quite liking profile 3 in black but need to get hold of some more metal versions for a direct comparison.
  24. bissoejosh
    Laid properly the 110mm should be pretty much fit and forget so I wouldn't worry about it too much.
  25. bissoejosh
    A bit of browsing presents this new Hitachi NR90GC2for £287.99 from a couple of places. https://www.toolstop.co.uk/index.php?option=shop&page=shop.product_details&product_id=77497&l=uk&utm_source=google&utm_medium=base&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1J6bur2K2gIVTrXtCh3-pAPqEAYYASABEgKMZfD_BwE https://www.mytoolshed.co.uk/hitachi-nr90gc2-gas-clipped-head-strip-framing-nailer.html Assuming a compressor is say £100 and an air nailer the best part of £150+ it looks like reasonable value If I want to avoid an air line. I know it won't resell like a paslode (around £520 new) but at this price it might not have to. Reviews seem decent enough and I'm tempted unless people say otherwise?
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