markharro

Thanks @Dillsue I wouldnt know what the correct thickness should be so have attached photos to show what has been used. I think the insulation is the proper outdoor stuff to the best of my knowledge....my concerns are the gaps and length of pipe run

I'm mainly going on what someone said above about taping all the joins to make sure no rain can enter. There are lots of areas where that can happen.

Thanks again @sharpener and @Peter M I have attached some more photos of the way the pipes have been insulated. Even to my fairly untrained eye I am not impressed with it. There are splits and while some joints appear to be glued its not done very well. Also the tape used in some placing in clearly no good - maybe not surprising as the plumber had left and the electrician ended up doing those bits. I am pretty sure I would have done a far better job myself and it would be good to hear what people think? Its costing a small fortune for this ASHP instal (although I will get some money back form the grant when it is done) so I think I have a right to expect an exemplary job.

Thanks @sharpener I wonder if you could also have a look at the pipe runs on the photo I attach. The installer told me that it needs to be doubled back like this to allow easy maintenance into the future. My understanding is that it is best to minimise the outdoor pipe runs and was disappointed to see this.

We have our installer here and about half way through the instal. In the first place I wonder if anyone could help me with any basic things I should be asking the installer so I know the heat pump is configured optimally? The second thing is that they have tested it now. We only have one plumbing run being a cold tap at the sink that is currently working. For some reason water from this was coming through warm. Why could this be? Will probably have a few more things to ask but these are the most pressing. thanks.

I have these which I would be happy to do a deal on.....

Interesting thanks....is the system designed simply to work with tiles? Do you have a link @Russdl to where you get these things. How do they stay put when you are setting out?

Hi @Russdl how do these pedestals work? Surely the tiles don't just sit on top with a gap below? We have groundworkers coming this week to do a few things including making up the ground to our sliding door for a flush finish. We are not placing a drain but I am still confused how the final finish is done. Part of our issue is that we still haven't decided what the capping will be - probably stone rather than tile but one issue is that stone would be too thick to butt level with our threshold!

I like your slatted door in that photo @Kelvin can I ask where you sourced that from?

Thats interesting - how does that work?

I am sitting in my straw bale garden office atm. Its awesome. I am sure your house will be great.

Yes got them and use them for other things but for a stud length you would need a few dozen!

Yes exactly this

Can anyone recommend a source...I think it needs to be flat smooth cardboard - not corrugated. This looks like it might work but I would need to cut strips from the roll - https://www.tiger-supplies.co.uk/Catalogue/site-equipment/temporary-protection/Floor-Protection/Floor-Card--Heavy-Duty---1M-x-50M-116-054

I could offer you some but its Partel tape but it looks like @moonshine has you sorted. Separately, I could do with maybe around 10m or so of plain black airtightness tape - ideally Tescon Invis but any black would do. Also looking to avoid the delivery ££ on a full roll

I am planning to use clear CT1

How are you getting on with @sean1933 I really need to work out what I am doing with our doors etc. You mentioned teh Ezyjamb was £500 - did that include a door blank?

To renew this thread we are shortly to have our HW cylinder installed and connected up to the flow and return pipes which will then be getting insulated - question: is there a standard thickness/type of foam insulation to use around the pipes internally? thanks

We've gone for "nice" ply (great BandQ find) and fermacell for ours.....

We went for Uniwin - pretty pleased with them so far and price pretty good and they installed too. Front door however is from Inotherm. Very impressive build quality but a major hassle getting passive house data on it from UK supplier.

I am thinking of https://www.smart-secure.co.uk/product/eve-motionblinds-upgrade-kit-for-roller-blinds/ to automate a roller blind. Has anyone used this? Also anyone recommend an online shop for blinds where I could buy a standard roller to retrofit with this motorised kit? A google search throws up all sort of naff websites.

All of £1.50 a year @Dan F! Ok if thats the case then it would seem that there would be no point at all. It seems to me then that the easiest way to deal with the reveals would simply be to pack between the metal window fasteners with some scrap 12mm Ply of OSB to take out the bumps and then glue or screw the final finish board to this. That would completely remove the need to buy more material to rout or cut out or spray foam or any of that hassle?

Ah I see where you are coming from now - Jackoboard has a polystyrene core! The only problem with this is that I hate polystyrene almost as much as I hate PIR and I can see potential for lots of horrible waste getting everywhere when routing the back to go over the window brackets.

Thanks @Nickfromwales yes you will see from the photo what I am doing. Ply below and fermacell above and I want to bring both into the reveal. You mention tile backerboard. I wouldnt have thought that this would have much insulative value!? Thats why I wondered about something like wood fibre?

I have a 3m hose with the V tuf but it too heavy to stretch to the ceiling when sanding that - need a smaller bore.