markharro

I just have - and used it high up a wall. As others have said its very dusty to cut but it is pleasingly robust - and heavy! Not tried one of my oversize screws yet - will experiment once I am down to wastage scraps. Yes I understand the logic behind skirting boards but just don't like them. Am going to try the fermacell with a 10mm gap at bottom as shadow gap I think.

Can no one comment on whether Fermacell is robust enough to use right down to our concrete floor without a skirting board to get a simple clean look? Also I have another question. We are using 12mm ply on the bottom half of a wall as a feature secured with quite big screws - again as a feature. The screws are 6mm diameter I think and have concentric ridges under the head designed to allow you to adjust the plane of the board so you can easily match up boards. I intend to use Fermacell over the ply and want to use the same screws to maintain the "look". Will this cause any issues ie could I destroy the edges of the Fermacell with these large screws? Would it be ok if I predrilled a hole first and maybe also a taper at the surface? thanks

I never considered that. I have brought some ducts flush with the timber frame and other flush with the cement board/render. The flush one are where we will have timber cladding. I have not capped the ducts yet but will soon. Internally I am using Proclima gaskets and also externally in the main. Not yet sure about insulating - I certainly wont be using foam as I hate it so currently thinking I may stuff in some rockwool. I am thinking of using butyl tape to squeeze into external ends as a final airtightness measure.

Hi @zzPaulzz I drilled holes then threaded duct and then secured the duct with airtight tape at each end. For the rendered areas in some place I extended the duct through the cement board. In other places I drew the wires and took them to their final external locations prior to fixing the cement board. I'd recommend a lot of thought about the number of holes you need - I just about got it bang on...maybe one more might have been helpful

Hi @Timedout I am interested to know if you think Fermacell is robust enough to use right down to our concrete floor without a skirting board to get a simple clean look? thanks

Thanks @Dillsue and I think that this also reflects the point in the Heatgeek video which is that if you dont insulate the pipes going from the fan unit to the hot water tank then in the summer you are heating the house over this pipe length when you may well not want to do this!

Hi I know that the pipes need to be well insulated once they exit the external wall between the wall and the fan unit but does the pipe run once it is inside the house from the penetration points to the hot water tank does this pipe run also need to be insulated (in a passive house)? thanks

I have a question about how the Openreach instal is done and how flexible they are? We are building a passive house and the duct I intended to have the fibre cable pulled through may now have to be used for multiple CAT cables for various reasons. So I am wondering if there is anything to stop me using another pre-installed duct that is intended for a power cable for a possible (future) powered gate and share the duct by threading the fibre optic alongside the power cable? I assume that fibre optic doesn't get any interference from electrical cables? Any other reason this would not work? thanks

Hi @Timedout I am thinking of using Fermacell and wondered if I could finish it myself with the FST and save on the cost of a plasterer? From what you say that seems possible. What do you mean using a squeegee? Do you think a first time user will get an acceptable final finish? It terms of the stages is it simply screw on with their screws; fill joints with their filler? Do you have apply tape over joins and add filler over that? then finish with the FST? If the boards are not taper edge do you not find the edges stand out a bit after they are filled and taped? Where is the best place to source the correct ancillary products? thanks Finally is the board robust enough so you dont need any skirting board on top?

Not quite the same issue @Omgiamgoingtobuildahouse and @Dan F but we too have a MBC slab and I am trying to work out how to clad the EPS base. At the moment I am thinking cement board stuck on using this stuff - https://www.dupont.co.uk/products/insta-stik-multipurpose.html Not sure how to "grout" the gaps between boards though?

This looks like a better option? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Everbuild-AC50-Acoustic-Sealant-Adhesive/dp/B006SV7PPS/ref=asc_df_B006SV7PPS/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309785471682&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1442873038680153081&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046891&hvtargid=pla-696901975666&psc=1 About £1 per tube as standard size so should fit in my gun I think?

Thanks @Kelvin would you happen to know if these tube sizes are compatible with the Makita powered mastic gun I have....this one - https://www.screwfix.com/p/makita-dgc180zbk-18v-li-ion-lxt-cordless-caulking-gun-bare/861xj#product_additional_details_container ? Looks like maybe not!

@Gus Potter @Kelvin thanks very much for this - on the basis of this advice I think I will opt for 75mm for my 90mm wall void aiming for slight airgap on each side of insulation. Gus when you say use medium density wool is this say a 45kg/m3 product? This sort of stuff - https://www.insulationexpress.co.uk/acoustic-insulation/acoustic-wall-insulation/rockwool-rwa45-50mm-acoustic-insulation-slabs-6-48m2 And in tips of best place to buy this stuff? Kelvin, what do you use for sealing joints and gaps? Some sort of acoustic mastic or silicone? Finally I am thinking of using Fermacell board on some walls so presumably a 12mm Fermacell board might give the same acoustic performance as a 15mm acoustic PB?

Ive had a read of this thread but still a bit confused. We have 90mm deep studs so the first question is what is the best thickness of wool to use - I assume 50 or 75mm but will one or other be better and sound blocking? The next issue is density...the roll products dont appear to list any density data so how the hell do you know what you are buying?! They seem a lot cheaper than the denser batt products but is it worth spending more on these - some of the comments on this thread suggest not? May use rolls for less critical areas and denser stuff for partitions that really do need to sound bloc? Final question - where to get the best price - online or at local builder merchant? thanks

We have a similar issue - turns out a steel post bolt has nicked one of our UFH pipes and the antifreeze mix is slowly seeping out. The company responsible is accepting it is their fault and is talking about cutting into the slab (powerfloated and intended to be our final floor finish) and then somehow jointing the affected bit of pipe. Can anyone confirm what the best practise is in these circs so I can double check with them? thanks

Thanks - this is exactly the sort of thing I was hoping for. Ok I think I can now safely bin the rooftop aerial idea

Yes I think iplayer does but I dont think ITV/STV? At least the last time I tried to watch the rugby live I couldnt see the option! And our TV for some weird reason does not have C4 catchup - does that show live C4? thanks

But surely if you want to watch all the Freeview channels live you need an aerial and coax? So the question when the hell is Freeview going to offer full live TV over broadband?

Hi could you maybe PM me to tell me how much you would want for this? thanks

Thanks @PNAmble so maybe if I work out the total number of PoE outlets I will have get a Ubiquiti switch to cover these and another brand for all the non PoE stuff? For the latter is it an "unmanaged" switch I need? For the non PoE I will probably need at least 24 sockets - can you recommend anything cost effective for that?

Hi @Triassic your photo mirrors my situation right now. Lots of CAT6 cable in the plant room waiting to be connected up. For me its for internet to rooms/TV/wifi points/doorbell and some PoE cameras and lots of other misc stuff. I have bought a wall mounted 12U rack and am now trying to work out what to buy to fit in the rack and connect everything to. I have decided to use Ubiquiti kit so atm I am thinking do I use there (cheapish) Dream Router and try and deal with the compromises or pay more for the Dream machine pro (the video recording on this being useful). So far so good. Whichever of these I go for I need another device(s) to connect all the CAT6 cables to to distribute the signal to the network. I think I need the "switch" @joth mentions with enough capacity for all the wiring and PoE (with enough total wattage to power all the PoE things to be connected). If so I think I then connect RJ45 plugs to the CAT6 and basically plug these in the front of the switch and then plug the CAT6 from the router to the switch as @joth sets out? What I don't really understand though @joth is where the "pntch panel" fits into the equation? What is its function and how does it integrate with the router and switch? Finally the Ubiquiti switches seem to cost a fortune. Am I correct in thinking that any switch will work in a Ubiquiti system......it would just mean that you would lose the fancy functionality you get with the Ubiquiti interface?

Hi no we didnt in the end - just too much hassle trying to organise. Luckily we have no issues on the 150mm slab. It may have helped that we covered it with sheeting for a few weeks after the pour.

Hi do you mean by "socket" the female housing that you would normally fit to the wall box? The thing you push the wires into with the push down tool? Do that on each end then plug in 2 ready made cables and test each end of those? If so that's maybe an idea. How easy is it to pull out the wires though from these sockets without damaging them? I know the plugs are cheap but I dislike wasting things.

I am installing CAT5e and CAT6 in the house now and want to make sure I have kinked the cable/broken any connectors etc before the walls are boarded. I have a testing gadget but this requires you to terminate the cable at each end with a plug which is tediously slow and also means that I probably waste 2 plugs as I won't know the exact lengths of cable required at each end until the 2nd fix. How do people do this? thanks

Thanks @Gus Potter I appreciate your advice. I have spoken to the spark today and all is ok. I have concluded that its better not to bother insulating these shallow voids - there is more than enough stuff to do to last a lifetime in any event. Thanks @Kelvin for the article link- useful conclusion appears to be to route cabling above any thermal insulation. I suppose in walls that means just on the outside of the insulation layer rather than buried in the middle.