Trw144

I ll need to check and report back on this one...

Thanks for the heads up - was just turning onto the M4 to help the search. Somehow my six sky/tv remotes have all migrated to my bedsite cabinet but I think I m culpable of that one.

They use one of these micro-skim coats to give a polished concrete look, onto an wooden frame (mdf I think it is). Either way it weighs a bloody ton. I had thought about attempting it myself as I ve seen the micro skim concrete effect stuff at a few self build exhibitions.

I just don't understand why they need toys in literally every room as well as their playroom and bedrooms.

It was a guy who builds them bespoke so you can order to any size to suit. There are a few options on the concrete finish, and any ral colour on the legs. Here is a link to his Houzz website... https://www.houzz.co.uk/pro/danielpolishedconcrete/daniel-polished-concrete

Its been a while since I added anything to this blog, but we ve just had some professional pics back (our timber frame supplier wanted to do a case study).... so I thought I may as well add them here... Its also a nice reminder for me to see what the house would look like if I did nt have a 4 and 6 year old.

Yes Loxone do offer a weather service - it's an interesting idea that essentially we are nt so worried about forthcoming temperature, but actually potential solar gain. With the low winter sun eliminating the benefit of the overhang, I gained 4 degrees in my kitchen/dining room within just a few hours this morning.

Yes, my thoughts are the same, hence not bothering with set backs (and a lot of you have better levels of insulation and airtightness than me).

@PeterWHi Peter, I m on a Loxone home automation system. They are nt cheap but it is great for integrating things like boiler, hot water, heating, shading etc. and, if you understand basic logic, very easy to programme. @Nickfromwales a quick check and it looks like it takes about 30 mins to increase the tank 5 degrees.

@Nickfromwales no, I don't think it's too bad - but I can improve it. Boiler is a 15kw, so either this or most likely the heat exchanger rate (will need to check what it is on my tank) is nt big enough to keep up with an 650 x 650 Bossini shower - it literally destroys the how water tank! To be honest I think I ll try and throttle the flow to it a bit by closing the isolator valve on the manifold to it - my wife won't notice flow rate but she does notice cold water.

It's a valliant solar cylinder (aurostore or something like that) so whatever standard insulation is. However it is in my garage - which whilst insulated, isn't heated so the ambient temp is lower. To an extent I don't mind a bit of heat loss in there as I store quite a bit in there and it can help keep the moisture out. I just think I can reduce the unnecessary waste. Whilst not the point, reality is the heat loss probably doesnt cost much - I'll do the calcs at some point.

Here's a graph from the last few days to show that steady heat loss from the cylinder.... Edit. Can anyone spot when I have a bath and read buildhub on my phone?!

@Nickfromwales no, I ve only just started logging data. I know hot water tank temperature is nt an issue in the summer as I have oodles of free solar thermal, however I m now logging hot water tank temp, solar collector temp, gas boiler running (and requested flow temp), amongst other things. What I can say is the large waterfall shower can empty the hot water cylinder pretty darn quickly - so i ve been heating the hot water cylinder to 60 degrees (allowing it to drop back to 55 before recharging). However it does lose about 1 degree an hour through heat loss which stacks up a bit, current thoughts are to have it recharge at 55 degrees through likely shower times (early morning and evening) and the rest of the time let the tank drop back to 50 degrees before recharging.

What are you heating with Declan?

We ve been in a almost a year and I m just starting to look at how I can improve the temperature settings of heating and hot water. Currently for the heating I leave the rooms at the same temperature all day - I m sure I read once that this was just as efficient as having a high/low temp. The one I am currently logging with a view to improving is the hot water tank - I m currently heating it to 60 degrees (allowing it to drop back to 55 before recharging) all the time so that it can cope with the demands of a shower and bath if used at a similar time. However I can already see how much energy is lost in doing this, so will look to change this to a high/low period whereby the tank temp is allowed to drop further during the day.

Agreed - definitely too nice to be mortgage providers

Yes - agreed l, in hindsight it would be best to draw down a small amount early on. We also got the reduced rate but technically should nt have as we did nt actually meet the higher spec they required at the time of taking out the mortgage. I think ours comes up for renewal on Feb/March (need to double check). The draw downs are very easy - although we were so far ahead in terms of loan to value I don't think it was an issue.

I m due to do the same - can you confirm the two year lock in period starts from the first draw down on the set build mortgage?

Agreed @AliG- the frame cost is way out. I would think you could pretty much half this.

£30k on an architect for a start!? Don't see why this could nt be somewhere between £5-£10k. I m sure others on here have come in less than this. Drainage seems high to me - especially as I believe this to be a site with multiple new builds and therefore connection to the mains should nt be too onerous? Ventilation costs seem high ? I paid £5.5k for my mvhr system including installation (330m2 house so probably a bigger unit and more ducting than you will need). Again, a lot of people on here did their own mvhr so probably some more savings could be made here. Although possible, I think your kitchen is likely to come in considerably higher than £2.5k. Painting seems high to me - another you could potentially do yourself. I bought someone in and labour only came in at £2000 (although I don't have painted woodwork/doors/skirting). Overall I think (I ve never sat down and calculated exactly) I ve come in at around £1100 m2 - circa £360k, on what I believe to be a pretty high spec house. I guess there are economies of scale to be had on building bigger though. Hope this helps a bit, I m sure others will chip in shortly - good luck! Edit - I have nt seen the full plans but £30k on windows seems quite high. I paid the same for all of my glazing (there's an awful blog on here somewhere that shows the amount of glass I have), and this included a large 3 x 1.5 flat roof skylight and 3 Hormann doors.

Looks like Jeremy blew it all on cocktails last week in his other post ?

We have a large open plan kitchen, dining room and sofa area, and also a separate lounge. The open plan kitchen is very much the hub of the house - to the point I can honestly say I have never sat in the separate lounge in 9 months! I might going to make a point of using it at Xmas.

Also managed to gain a screw from local building site last week..... unfortunately it was in my tyre wall and speed rating of tyre meant it couldn't be fixed

Mmm, I had two pairs of ladders go missing.

Hi - I believe you only need to show that you are aiming to achieve the sap rating of 85 plus (don't tell them any different though). Having said that, I would think 85 plus is quite easily achieved. If you do need extra points - I think Pv gets you quite a few points so just show some on the plans. On a side not, it looks like ecology have lowered their sap lending criteria - would recommend them if anyone is looking for a mortgage.