markc

I was trying to work out why the need for 300mm for a flashing?

Everything can be fixed, but did you ask for the roof to be levelled when asking for a quote? A strip and replace is very different from strip and replace writhing tolerance “xyz” etc. from the pic it looks like a 60’s or 70’s building so the finished job is pretty straight.

Good morning and welcome

I must be missing something here, it usually rains during construction and it’s not a problem, if you pull a dpm up with water inside them you are creating a dam which will prevent water draining away

Good afternoon and welcome, 30 yrs! Wow, now that’s a marathon renovation.

Crane doesn’t have to be mega bucks but can be. what do you need to lift and to where? Roof trusses, ridge beams etc. are all fairly light but bulky, a mini crane or spider platform with winch will do them easily. if it’s bricks and blocks these could be put around the back before access is prevented. A little ingenuity and forward planning can save a lot of money, hard work and stress

Not possible without a lot of complex joinery to form a rebate/frame around the arch, you could then add foam draught excluder and a brush strip along the bottom.

Sorry folks, I really must read a thread before commenting, I saw this and thought it was a poured concrete retaining wall, looking back I now see it’s a block wall and giving way in a number of places. Forget paint or slips, as others have said, good clean and tidy up or you are looking at pulling it out and replacing altogether

Whenever I want a frameless glass door or screen I go for 10mm minimum

It’s either plain water or water and a bit of PVA. Not for strengthening, stops dry surface sucking moisture out of the mortar

Good clean to get good adhesion and paint will stay on for a lot of years, also easy to freshen up with a re coat. Whatever you use will collect dirt because of location

Pressure washer, hosepipe ban? masonry paint for a white or coloured finish?

Problem with going with off the shelf window and door frame dimensions is the glass door, it’s size and thickness makes a massive difference to the bending moment on the frame, also which side it is hinged on. Happy to give frame section suggestions once you know the door size and weight. for instance, the door I mentioned earlier weights around 90 kgs, much more than a fire door

Still individual panes fitted into the frame,

No need for rebates unless you are a skilled joiner/cabinet maker, simple frame with halving joints at intersections, add glazing strips afterwards. Glass is going to be the expensive part as it needs to be toughened. Glass doors can be bought online, ladt one I did I ordered off eBay or glassandstainless.com actually I have a 10mm thick toughened door at home (Barnsley)

Got to agree with you

UFH temp is low so engineered wood is no problem at all (temperature used to cure the glue during manufacture will be way above floor temp)

I would glue only, screws are leak and leach points. solvent based contact adhesive .. Screwfix no nonsense is exactly to same as bostik

A few possibilities available, main point is very well fitted hinges so the doors have no spring in them. this allows small magnetic catches to be used that can be hidden in the rebate/stopper. Easier if frames are not rebated so you can add the stop after fitting doors and catches

As it’s a lean to then there are no ridge beams required and I would want a lot of glass so i would go Larson truss side walls for ease of insulation and services, ledger fixed to existing wall with timber I beam rafters, a couple of big roof lights and a eaves beam over the full width sliding doors

I’m guessing internal? Do the doors swing both ways? (I’m going to regret wording that … que posts from certain members) what are doors and frames made of?

Anyone else completely lost on this thread?

Protective Multiple Earthing

Sounds very like us, we don’t advertise, we dont cold call, we dont follow up or chase anyone. I’m technical Director and have often been referred to as the Sales Avoidance Officer but our customers respect an honest opinion.

Morning squire, couple of screws each side is all you need to fix saddles to bottom of posts, the joint will always be in compression so technically doesn’t need anything. I would fit the posts in place, temp props to maintain correct deck level, temp stays or braces to maintain post in plumb and get the concrete in.