markc

Interesting bit of design. To rescue this I reckon you need a good GRP roofer who would strip back and effectively form a waterproof and tough trough to prevent any more water getting under the tiles or flashings and funnel it to the gutter / down pipe

+1 if you are concerned, clean off a small patch of the top coat to see what’s underneath … very good chance it’s just a bright green paint (or paper) that’s now grinning through.

Good morning and welcome, we all have to start somewhere and BH is a great place to get info and advice from people who are doing it rather than just making videos for YouTube etc.

You need to be budgeting much more than £2/m unless you are doing a lot of the work yourself. It’s a relatively small build, quite a bit of messing about tying into existing etc. if this was mine I would be estimating at £4-5k per metre.

@Handra, sorry only just seen this. nothing wrong with thinking outside the box, but I am struggling to visualise your suggestion at the moment. Any chance of a sketch or doodle?

Dependant on which way your roosts run, you could support the ridge with tied rafters (the tie being between or part of the joists). Or you could use steel rafters with a suitable connection at the ridge (this wouldn’t need ties). I have just done a similar thing on my new man shed - stone and block walls and didn’t want portal frame columns so the rafters work like a portal but with foot plates that land on top of the walls.

As above, soil type is everything, then you look at the depth of excavation and what works will be done and proximity to an unprotected face which will all be included in your risk assessment.

Local planners refused a barn / workshop (my address is a farm but I don’t farm it). But no problem with a building within the curtilage but it had to have a small kitchen and a toilet in order to be ancillary to main house 🤷🏻‍♂️

Paper scraper or thin wide chisel will get the bead started in the middle. Once you get a small gap opened it will come out easily

Squirt of silicon in the holes for peace of mind?

🤫 glazing is much easier to measure correctly

Quick check of auto level accuracy. set in middle of room, mark laser position on opposite walls. Turn laser around 180 degrees and points (or difference in points) should be the same. laser receivers are not that accurate, when checking floors it’s easier to set laser low and use a rule or tape to check height

From experience I would have the drive edged (contrasting pavers etc.) then move back to a retaining wall if you need it. Taking a drive right upto a small retaining wall usually ends up with scrapes on cills, doors or wheels.

If it’s just for home stuff then free version of Fusion 360, full single user is around £370 a year I think

Quick google of steel section properties will give the CSA etc for circular (CHS), Square (SHS), Rectangular (RHS) etc.

Rather than PD rights being removed, it is more likely this was a condition imposed in order to get permission to build the houses in the first place. So it’s not a case of reinstatement as they were never there in the first place and you would probably be better off applying for planning on whatever it is you are wanting to do.

160mm is a ridiculous deflection. As this is a prop, then you are looking at compressive strength and ability to resist buckling while supporting the load. 6.5m isn’t a big span unless you are very stricter on beam depth. if you do need to prop, then a rectangular box section is probably to best option as this could be sized and positioned to work with the door frames etc.

I have just bought a Teckentrup insulated door and it looks good quality, not fitted yet but will be in a couple of weeks.

The Architect ?

Well done, I’ve seen much worse done by “professionals”

A lot depends on the balustrade. If the handrail and infil (assuming glass) is designed as load bearing the cantilever is drastically reduced and a block wall would be ok. If the treads are true single cantilever’s then you are into reinforced wall territory. A bespoke stair company will have SE’s they work with regularly.

Good morning and welcome. … and good luck 😃

M4 is a machine thread, not a wood screw. 4mm x 30 is a pretty standard door hinge size into timber

No need for insulation as the hot air will be moving and a flat duct will be plastic. some condensation will form inside the duct but the moving air will carry this away to atmosphere. a cold duct in a warm environment would form condensation on the outside which would be a problem.

Good morning and welcome, sounds like you will be busy for a while. Have fun